Jwalth02

Thank you OlDatZMan, that sounds pretty clean cut. And the BCDD was in Mike's last comment on the previous page I don't know what it stands for.

Sorry, but BCDD? I'm going to pull the carb off again and clean one more time when I get a chance. Again on the compression does it matter which side I use intake plug or exhaust? And would my 82 book have close enough pressures listed for it?

I have not been able to mess with the timing as of yet due to the fact that I cannot see the timing marks anywhere, and can't get my hands on a timing light. I'm about to the point of marking the current spot and just turning it to see what happens. Just a review: Truck ran fine until I lost the stock fuel pump and then sat for about 5 years. Installed new Facet fuel pump and pumped all the old fuel out of the tank with it. Changed fuel filter that threads into the pump and filled tank with fresh fuel with Seafoam mixed in. Changed all plugs with NGK replacements, Distributor cap and rotor, plug wires, and all vacuum lines. Warmed engine up and set valve lash as per specs provided here. Truck would not idle but runs after adjusting past idle. Pulled the carb and cleaned all jets that I could see, the idle air slot in the side of the chamber. Removed fuel cutoff solenoid needle. Installed fuel pressure regulator and gauge (home made, but it is all fuel rated) and set between 4-5 psi. Adjusted float to maintain fuel at the dot in the sight glass. Checked plugs on both intake and exhaust side to make sure coils are firing. Fixed vacuum leak on spacer between carb and intake manifold. Verified wiring from dist. cap to plugs. Truck started idling but it was with the lope and shake shown in the video. Now it is back to the point of running till the choke opens up and it starts hissing through the secondary and finally sputters and dies. The tach is not functioning so I can't tell what RPM it is running at but it sounds smooth and close when the choke is on. Am I wasting my time with this carb? I don't have the funds to purchase a new one or do the Weber swap. I am to the point that it is about to go to the junkyard. Hope this clears any questions up, though I am probably forgetting something. And I haven't really paid any attention to the vacuum advance as Mike said earlier in this thread there is no vacuum on the advance at idle and pulling the hose and plugging it makes no change.

Sorry bud I'm not trying to take it out on you just extremely frustrated with this thing. I will try to get a compression test done soon, can this be accomplished on the exhaust side as the plugs are easier to get to or does it need to be done on the intake side? Also what pressure should I be seeing? Also I didn't mention when it starts sputtering the fuel pressure stays constant and the level in the bowl stays solid. Lastly on the carb I know we've talked about the cut-off solenoid supplying fuel to the Idle mix screw, where does the solenoid get fuel from? Port in the bowl? Maybe plugged slightly? I'm thinking about pulling the carb again and double checking it all in there as well. Also, should the secondary be pulling air and making a high pitched hiss when idling? Also the last couple of times I fired it up, the shake and lopey idle has reverted back to just sputtering when the choke opens up and shutting itself off.

Mike, again I really appreciate your help on this, but we have been through all of these steps already. I have adjusted the idle mix screw and the speed screw so many times they should be wore out. That is what has gotten me to this point. As stated in the rest of this whole thread I have made lots of progress as it would not run at all before. I have triple checked the wiring for the spark plugs, both coils are firing, and the valve lash has been set. I have the idle (when it runs) sounding good but I cannot tell you the RPM's as the tach does not work. Remember, the truck ran fine before I let it sit for years. Then changed the fuel pump and this is where I stand.

Well I feel like I am beating a dead horse here... I finally had the chance to put a regulator on, the gauge bounces between 4-5 psi while running so I am calling that pretty close. I adjusted the float again and got the fuel to hold steady in the dot in the sight glass. Idle sounds good while the choke is active, but as soon as it warms up and opens all the way it sounds like it is sucking air through the secondary and goes to sputtering and then either lopes, or dies. Any last suggestions? Or is there someone out there that wants to take it off my hands...

This is the best I've ever gotten it to idle, when it first starts it idles normal but then goes to this lope... WTF? It does it with the air cleaner on or off, and I have checked all the vacuum lines three times, no leaks and no sputter with the carb. The only way to clear it is adjust idle speed past where the idle mix screw makes any difference. It still drives good kinda sputters if I goose the throttle but if I ease into it it's fine. Should I even worry about it?

So tomorrow I have to pull the carb off again. After checking all of my vacuum lines I got out the carb cleaner and started spraying. On the back side towards the EGR it is sucking air. This might be my issue.

Ok I will look into a regulator, however I did get it to stop over fueling by blowing out the return... Now it idles great got it all adjusted and back together and BAM. Died. Fuel level is still correct, not overflowing anymore just quit.

Well it is not the stock pump, it is the aftermarket facet pump that says 7-9 Pai and I don't know if that is too much or not. And it's got two new filters, the one on the new pump and one in line just before the carb. I just got done pulling the needle seat and cleaned it out, blew out the return line to tank and the line to where it T's, and it's still over filling. I'm gonna give the needle one more shot otherwise check actual fuel pressure.

Well hello again! I know it's been a while but I wanted to post an update in case it might help in the future. I finally got around to working on the truck again. Decided to bite the bullet and pulled the carb (wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it would be) I discovered on the smaller barrel (if that's what you call it) there is a oval channel on the side partially covered by the butterfly and when I adjust the idle speed screw you can see more. LIGHTBULB! This must be where it gets it's air for the idle? Well it was full of gunk. I cleaned it out and the four ports next to it as well and the pilot jet directly underneath the butterfly. Put it all back together and on the truck and OH MY GOD it idles!!!! I adjusted the idle speed screw and the other one that was covered by the plug and got it idling smoothly and at a normal sounding RPM. Put everything back on thinking I was done and fired it up again to let it idle for a bit and right when I put my last tool away it started sputtering and bellowing white smoke out the exhaust until finally it died. By the time I got over to it I could hear fuel dripping and the whole side of the carb was covered. Started it again and fuel was flooding out of the top of the bowl (haven't pinpointed where exactly yet) after the cleaning and before I put it all back together I gave the float a final tweak to get the level right in the center of the dot and it stayed there the whole time it ran until it overfilled and flooded the engine. Now it will continue to do this cycle, open the bowl clean the needle and the seat put all back together, verify fuel level in sight glass, run for 1-2 minutes, overfill bowl, flood and die. Is my fuel pump overpowering the needle you think? Or maybe I need to pull the seat and clean better? Why would the level be where it needs to be for a minute then suddenly overfill? If I adjust the float more it won't be set on the dot. Maybe tighten it up a little to where it's just below the dot and see if it seals? Thoughts? Thanks again for all your help on this guys.

Well guys, I really appreciate all the help and input you have given me. I have the idle running a little smoother but still a little choppy. I have had it on the road once and had no issues, so I think I'm going to run it as is until I decide whether or not to upgrade. Thanks again!

The highest year I see on that site for a 720 is an 82 with the z22 it says. Should I just call them?

Where is the best kit?

Umm hard to tell exactly like I've said a couple times without a working tach... Right now it's as good as I can get it, just sounds kinda rough but at least it's running.