BLUESTEAL

Well, after trying to locate an assembly with no luck, I decided to disassemble the “whole enchilada “. After a complete tear down, I find that the true culprit was the corroded contacts on the ends of the “arms” that are activated by turning the headlight switch forward, which also contact these really small pins, also no help in the situation, that slide in and out of equally small openings, that are of matching shapes to the pins, so you can’t mix them up, that contact and control these arms. Frozen in place after years of use, dirt and heat cycling and only capable of being jostled loose by repeated switch movement. The flaking plastic was mostly located on the male plug housings. Getting this whole affair apart and cleaned up with paint thinner then re- constituted with fresh lithium grease and dielectric grease was not so much a challenge mechanically just time consuming. The use of small model making tools greatly helped in re assembly, as these pieces are 1/4” or less in size with tight and I really mean tight clearances. Not so easy to handle with numb and calloused hot dog fingers. The lube has to applied sparingly so as not to slop all over, I used a hobby detail paint brush for the lube. After all the tedious finger work and sometimes looking away to let my eyes refocus, it’s back together and working like new ! Nice bright lights and blinkers with movements and smoothness.. Just like Mike said, it’s a robust piece, and with a little patience, cleaning, lube and good lighting at your workbench , it’s repairable.

Really tuff to find this replacement part. Visited my local dealer with no luck, they say it’s “ obsolete “ no longer available thru them. Scoured the local yards but I find just shells of what once, was a whole truck. But ! I see similarities in the offerings on EBAY and STANDARD brand components for this model year. The lever arms are the same style, flat for the wiper and round for the headlights, but my switch cluster has a pigtail of wires with a plug coming from the turn signal mechanism which those do not have on the back side where everything else plugs in. My quandary is weather to buy new and retro fit the pigtail onto it, if that’s even possible OR buy the used one and see how long it lasts, the used offerings look pretty crusty. So I disconnect the battery, disassembled my original piece, where the pigtail is ( 3 screws) and found small springs and sliding carriers with copper contact plates that ride against the pigtail casing with its contacts. Just wanted to see how it worked. Gave the whole switch cluster a little brush down with electrical cleaning solvent and lubed it up with silicone grease, where required. Put it all back together just like it came apart, pretty straight forward, and I’ve got zip now...nothin’, not even an interior light. All fuses are good. I’m stumped. Must have popped something somewhere else. Disconnected the battery before disassembly and reconnected afterward. I purchased a new switch cluster and will investigate its turn signal internals with intense light to see if my pigtail will adapt. Fingers crossed. Any input from my “go to” info source will be greatly appreciated. And Mike, it is a robust piece it’s just deteriorating due to its age and years in use. The plastic is crumbling into chips and it’s super duper brittle.

Trying to find a new headlight - wiper - blinker combo switch for my 1986 720 standard cab/bed 4X2 is pretty tuff these days. Built in April-May of 85’ sold new in 86’ here in the states. Most of the mainstream auto parts stores don’t seem carry this particular one. It’s a one piece affair with the snap ring to keep it on the column and the Phillips screw clamp to hold it in place. I’m fearful of taking it off because if it breaks I will be in real trouble. My real question here is weather to attempt a complete steering column swap from an 87-88 and up, as these models are more readily available parts wise. Unfortunately mine is the cut off model before the Hardbody came into the picture and interior parts are scarce. Any input will be greatly appreciated. Thanks

If your patient and fortunate enough, EBay can sometimes be a good source for used carbs. I was in the same predicament, I needed a carb. for my 1986 720 with a Z24 motor and was quick enough to get a used carb for $100, doner truck had very few miles and with a good rebuild kit it will be good as new.

Sweet! Thanks fellas...

Is there any way to remove the faux wood tape on the dash of a 1986 720 ? I don’t want to ruin it if I can help it.

What’s the proper way to get the old out and the new in?

Now , with your invaluable help Mike, I’ve found the problem. The black wire fuseable link looks like a bad Frito, crispy and burned with the brass connector exposed. Luckily, cruising the offerings on E Bay I found the exact same one, used of course but much fresher than this crispy critter I’ve got. For 20 chits I’ll find out if this solves the problem in a few days. I have a question for you regarding this piece. What makes this a fuseable link, I’m kind of fuzzy on just how they work, why not just put a visible fuse where this thing is instead of a melted wire and connector. Would be much simpler/safer to me, but hey I don’t design vehicle electronic systems.

I don’t know what happened. Left to get some more Holiday lights and got there with no issues, came out with the booty and went to start er’ up and nothin’! !, I had fuel and temp gauge at first then they went south for the winter! clock still works along with exterior lights, headlights, horn and interior light but no start. Gave the fuse box a look see and everybody’s solid. Got er’ towed home and replaced the guts of the ignition switch, thinkin’ it was time for a new one as it was acting up and is the original piece, but still nothin’. Checked all the related relays and found them to be in working order. I’m taking the starter to get checked out in the morning but I’m betting it’s good to go. Didn’t smell nothin, saw no smoke and heard nothing unusual, This has got me lost for an answer as to why it just quit, anybody have history with something like this?

Can’t get the cap to seat on the wheel, super tight fit. Wrong cap? 2004 Frontier wheel on my 1985 720 2WD

Oh cool, thank you.

Thank you Mike, looks like a bare knuckle afternoon. On another note, where would I find the gear ratio tag on the diff? Finally found the 15 inch wheels I wanted, to replace the 14’s that are currently on. Thanks again.

Ughh, I’m not looking forward to yanking it out but that will give me the opportunity to blast everything clean again😶 and change that bad seal. Any tricks to dropping the trans on a 4X2 standard cab ‘85 720?

Do I have to remove the trans to replace the front seal and seal cover ?

Crawled under there and no visible harm done and nothing loose, all nuts and components still solid and not shaking around. Bushings all less than 2 yrs. old, put in the neoprene versions when I replaced the upper and lower ball joints and tie rod ends. I didn’t replace the A arm bushings though, looked ok. Had the realignment done at the dealer and they said I was good to go. What’s the procedure for pulling out the torsion bars and checking those guys out? More trouble than its worth to get “IREENE” back level again ???...