freeman

Noise coming from possibly the middle to the rear but not the front. it was getting worse and now its gone. but something may go out with an explosion who knows it doesnt make sense.. but ive replaced a few carrier bearings its 95% good checking it 5-6 times wishing it was a simple fix.they can not make that kind of noise..ujoints master cyl slave cyl or fluids cannot make that kind of grinding noise. once i replaced the clutch -( only the plate,,cover..throw out and sleeve..both clips) and lost the driveshaft mark. i decided to turn the front short driveshaft 180 just to see if it could possibly roll any smoother. doesnt roll smoother its worse. pretty sure the front ds weight needs to be aligned with the rear ds weight down the line as its always been before. instead of just putting the front ds back so weights are aligned again and "call it good"........ ive got to do the whole testing thing to be sure its as good as it can be....because if i have to screw with it im going to know its as good as it can get. its just going to take a hellof alot of time..in this insane summer heat.

FIXED IT...somehow. After the throw out bearing went...i ordered all new clutch stuff.. removed the 5 speed and did clutch job..put trans back in and now that low tone aweful plenty loud grinding noise has disappeared. for 2 weeks now so im starting to run it harder like before. Next is balancing the driveshaft as i washed the alignment marks away and have vibes that wasnt there before. I like the balance trick on utube where a guy uses a clear plastic cup with some water in it....which is attatched to the diff. looks like balanced causes pretty smooth water level. anyone have an easier way lmk thanks. for 2wd KC 2 piece shaft. Should the weight on each shaft be in alignment to the other or should they be 180 off? ive looked online at pics of new shafts and of course theyre missing or out of focus. or tiny ass useless pics.

Heres an update. I replaced the diff yesterday and it has the same grinding roaring noise. So replacing the rear bearings and diff... didnt fix the noise i originally posted about. old bearings look ok. old diff looks ok with no shavings i see after cleaning the diff housing and fluid change. (but mechanic shop probably drained diff fluid previously before their diff rebuilt quote). ...checked master and new slave engaging. theres no oil leaks and working properly. suspecting the noise coming from the 5 spd? or front Wheel bearings but theyre 6 months old and checked both sides with grease caps off..theirs no slack. or wheel wobble. carrier bearing looks great and centered..holding shaft tight. ujoints look new and about 6 mos old. both driveshafts are tight no wobble. ill get in the bed and have someone do left turns so maybe i can pinpoint the noise location...damn sure loud enough.

Now my clutch went out. i have to start it in 1st and time the stop lights just right. i checked new slave and its working fine. something popped when i depressed the clutch and its not fixing itself this time. luckily i was still in neutral. any suggestions on where to buy or brand pressure plate ..throw out bearing etc..appreciated. got the 3rd member home. just one part ..no pieces to woory about. man its easy to replace..so glad. today replacing the 3rd member ..tomorrow looks like im dropping the trans and replacing the clutch.. hope its as strait forward as 3rd member replacement. any suggestions appreciated.

At the junkyard now. Located one..with same 37 gears..same 1985 5 sp. So I can just remove the wheels..slide the axles out then remove the 3rd member..and replace mine? This replacement oil looks good no metal and moves around fine. When I remove the cover bolts I can just lift it out and put in mine? Will there be pieces to worry about falling off it..to put back on before I place it in my diff? Thanks.

HAHA YES MY WHEELS HAVE NEW BEARINGS ILL GO FOR THE 3RD MEMBER REPLACEMENT. ILL FIND ANOTHER TRUCK WITH THE SAME FIREWALL TAG GEARS LIKE MINE. AND LOOK FOR ANY NUMBERS ON THE AXLES TO COMPARE THEIR THE SAME... PICK UP GL5 AND SOLVENT. OR A COMPLETE SWAP LAST RESORT. BACK IN THE RIGHT MINDSET I CAN DO ANYTHING. IM LOOKING FORWARD TO IT.. THANK YOU.

hey yall i got the diagnosis. that metal is in the differential oil it needs rebuilding...its $3450. we settled for an $89 diagnosis fee and i was returned $430. i didnt know to drain the oil and took it to a shop. they replaced the axle bearings for nothing. Ive overloaded this truck sooo many times in the last 5 years with carpet, pad and pallets of flooring is the reason im sure. just driving empty i bet would last forever. im all in..FSM..research and doing all the work to it myself now on like i said 3 years ago. hate learning but easier thereafter. it has 3.6 gears and 225 tires in back for good 75-80 mph highway cruising. why do i need the same ratio? just if i replace the center parts..ring and pinion..the gears in there? ive never looked into it i dont know it AT ALL yet..i need a FSM. guess if i can just get a whole other axle then ratio doesnt matter right. maybe have to shift through the gears faster with 4 something gears. hope to get an axle cheap.. that would be easier than anything else for me. im some kinda dummy i reject learning unless provoked.. Thanks yall.

Can someone tell me how to fix a ring and pinion can they be bought and simply replaced? after headache passes ill do research ..i love the truck but hate research and repairs. Thanks,

Thanks. its back in shop. Must be ring pinion now.. Tires r like new.. Alignment on track. Forgot to add carrier bearing is good..its the 2nd or 3rd I've replaced. I almost attempted the bearings.. would of been a racket..then onto the ring pinion. Hellofa lotawork im no mechanic but do ok hating it...my flooring work is easy and pays good so Would of been sweet to just have a mechanic fix it..but hell no..big shop is on the hook says will take care of it. Seems all rear axle problems/noises sound the same.

my 85 nissan 720 kc 5 sp. 250k las vegas anyone ever had this happen? and the fix it took. id appreciate the info. grouling roaring noise seems to come from the bed area.. from the left rear wheel..like a bad L r bearing. It doesnt happen until its good n hot.. all oil n fluids fully hot..now summertime 100+ temps and 10 miles of driving it. especially after 10 mile highway trip at 65-70 mph. then.exit.. on left turns the roaring will start til straightening out and making it to 3rd gear...or thru 4th gear when floored. when really normal hot..is also noisey just taking off straight and gassing it a bit more than usual. i just got it back from a shop that replaced both rear wheels' bearings. cost me $530. i drive 10 miles..and no change so its not the rear wheel bearings? i did get the old parts and got 2 bearings 2 races and 2 seals. previous work done to MAYBE rule out cause. work done the past 6 months- -new front calipers brakes and rotors -all new ujoints. 3 total. -new trans and differential fluid..i recently double checked..is full ..clean. -after a week of the grouling(before having bearings replaced) i decide to check the neutral switch..doesnt work because i checked and bump started it in 1st gear a couple times leaped forward.. BUT...the 2nd time something stuck= pushing in the clutch when motor was running wouldnt allow me to put in any gear..it would of grind way too hard so i replaced the slave cyl and fluid and still no good..for a possible fix i decided to start it in 1st gear and pushed the clutch in and out and finally it fixed itself..and is working like its old self. COULD GROULING AT HOT OPERATING TEMP AND LEFT TURNS BE THE TRANSMISSION ? AFTER THAT THING GOT STUCK AND UNSTUCK?. im guessing its the differential? Thank you.

Hello. 85 720 kc 5 spd caliwacker. 249.978 miles. On the passengerside of 5 spd trans is 2 separate sensors..they have 2 wires going to them. What are names and functions? They look identical..and look the same as the clutch "neutral switch" I ordered yesterday...that goes at top of clutchlever.... My slave cylinder quit yesterday and I notice 2 more switches/sensors? on the trans.. All 3 look identical..1 at clutch petal and 2 on the trans. Parts stores only haz the neutral switch. Are there 3 neutral switches? Yup time for a FSM..searching for hours no luck. Appreciate some help.

You know..the feedback system disconnect wire is yellow.. you know. at pass firewall.. back left of carb the water temp sensor and vac sensor sounds like it. esp since i forgot to be careful not to damage something else.. as usual. always happens. So old anyways ill replace them. see if any local store has in stock....maybe test but i only have a test light for power to it ok ill find out where there located...just follow the 6 wire connector to them or pics online. Thanks man def a good place to start. i appreciate it. ecu ground an easy fix while out there too. my af sol does the clicking anti diesel sol works battery groung good as i have it grounded to starter..firewall and the power steering resevoir bracket. haha (learned importance from a 72 caprice when it would backfire returning from a long trip. started at 75 mph then on down to 70 65 60 55 50 45 40 35. a mechanic hooked up another ground and fixed. amazing.cost me $20)

Its the single nut with o2 at the exhaust manifold area.. fairly new o2 sensor. Nevada has smog testing and i want to get the regular Nevada license n tag..and get back performance and mileage. I got some info at High impact Motorsports here in Vegas..He mentioned the fidc location and ac probably not involved with ecu also. i fixed a cracked vac line at fidc and cleaned connections. I plugged the yellow wire back and dies at idle immediately or eventually and ecu light didnt come on when i helped it idle. no ecu light is new. When yellow is disconnected and i pull on the ac fan lever..it will idle a bit high and return to normal back n forth like its ready for a compressor to come on. so ill say i guess its time to check the sensors? neutal switch/ vacuum switch/ water temp/..o2/ ecu ground/..ign coil trigger/..mix sol/ anti diesel/ battery volt. What would you do? Thank you for some directions ..i have to lay down.. before riding the electrical. depression bike..

My 85KC 720 5 spd 250k. Las Vegas, Nv. Hey Yall. I removed my ac(thru away) and cat(kept) and now it wont idle. i have to unplug the yellow feedback connection so it idles.. and runs ok. except the performance has diminished and am getting 30+ less miles per tankfull. I believe its the Ac info thats missing for the ecu to work properly. Where will i find the ac wire and make the ecu think the ac is there and working properly? Im sure everything all other parts are good and sending info for ecu. id like to start with the ac ecu pin trick...then test all the other feedback parts last. i may have to buy and learn to use a multimeter is ok except what dial location should it be set to? and where is that ac wire for the ecu. BTW> Also been curious Where is the FIDC located(Fast idle control devise)..and what does it look like? is it the fast idle cam? i dont think so and it has no wire going to it. Thank you very much. -Wayne Freeman

Heres what went wrong.....A couple things i guess added up to the mid to high rmp stumbling. 1.. I put my new blue ngk wires on just before the compression check and finally found that the exhaust coil wire going into the distrib wasnt making contact. There was normal burn marks at the bottom of all dist top terminals except ex coil..(on my new $40 copper tip dist cap) . (Because i put the old dist and wires on and that stopped the mid to high acceleration miss). 2. Before finding the above problem i had taken the carb off and noticed the broken plastic arm that connects to the vacuum pull off (the carb part with the 2-3" vac hose on it). fixed with plastic epoxy i had already. And more info...before finding the above- 1. I redid a comp check on #4 and now its like the others at 142 dry 152 wet......acurate// perfect report.. there all exactly 142 / 152. 2. i checked valve lash and there all perfect still on 12* hot motor...(13 guage wont fit) I know i stuffed that coil wire in there well..and checked that a couple times but...no..whayever.. i dont know why how this crap goes awry when i do some improvement..i hate it.. hate to report it. but it rolls quickly now... hard to just drive slow. Thank you. see yall next time because i dont like computers n reading til i need help.