bubba_doc

I know, i was really trying to avoid that. its a 4x4 too and I use it for hunting. dont really look for mud holes, but sometimes i find them.... doesnt seem like a good place for a turbo, but would technically work. I think I am going to use aftermarket booster and remote master cylinder. that will create all kinds of room. just gotta figure out which one will mount properly.

All I could think of was Fred Flintstone..... So the brake booster (vacuum assisted) wont really work in a turbo application will it? Does not seem like there will be that much intake manifold vacuum to help boost the brakes. So do I scrap everything but the lines and get something like a Willwood or AFCO pedal assembly complete with master cylinder and feed that into a 5 1/2 inch "Master Power Brakes" Single Diaphragm Remote Brake Booster. throw in an electric vacuum pump like the one they sell at summit and then hook the brake booster up to the factory lines? Why does this have to be so complicated? I think the fact that stopping is NOT overrated is the answer, I just wanted to ask that anyway. BTW, I think to get a smaller turbo, i would have to get one for a motorcycle. The one that I have IS small. I was only ever trying to put 6 lbs of boost to this thing anyway. So, I cant shrink the blower, so I am going to HAVE to clear out some room. Funny, in my inexperience, I never imagined that I would end up taking the whole damn truck apart and putting it back together again, Heck, I might as well take the transmission off and do something to that. I think it will be the only system I have not messed with. I really was NOT trying to take some master mechanics crash course here. Oh well.

I researched turbocharging a z24. www.turbodatsun.com had me convinced it could be done. Little did i realize that all those photos of that turbo application were on a right steer car. So, after extensive work and parts purchases including moving some air conditioner lines out of the way..... the turbo does not fit. Whit the answer is a smaller turbo, and I will be looking for one. I do not think that is the entire answer because lets say i get a smaller turbo, I think it would still be too hot to be sitting next to the master cylinder. I have some pics that tell the story, but I am sure you can imagine. Is there a way to shrink the girth of the brake booster and move the master cylinder closer to the firewall? I am a little scared I may have hit an insurmountable obstacle, however, if anyone would have answers, it would be you guys.

Thanks guys...... all excellent ideas!

Hopefully......NONE. B)

1985 Z24 engine in king cab 4x4. Looking at the engine there is a bolt going into the side of the block right behind the oil dipstick. Can I run it there? The oil pan is held captive by the front drivetrain and that makes taking the oil pan off a HUGE pain. I have also read some threads about poor oil return due to oil levels at or above oil return despite being at the uppermost part of the oil pan.

DM, thanks. will pickup some washers......how much torque? I saw it posted somewhere but cant find it with search feature and I do not have it in me to read all 44 plus pages of topics.......again.

DM, that was so helpful...... I am speechless. I speak blessings upon you and your family for many generations to come.

i remember the gradual and sequential pattern of torquing of the head bolts. How much torque on intake and exhaust manifold bolts? I am using studs with some pretty cool looking brass plated "manifold nuts" that have a flange, and are self locking. do i need a washer? Just checking....

Toxicrain, I tapped then M8 X1.25 it went smooth and seems to have fixed my problem. I hear loud and clear that I am supposed to put a replacement head gasket on a clean oil free surface without any other product. What about intake and exhaust manifold gaskets? I really do not want to have to make the mess, but i want it installed correctly. I see copper sprays and other stuff. I am sure everyone has an opinion help me form mine. I am a blank slate.....

Where is the fuel pump relay on a 1985 nissan king cab 4x4? I need to try and wire up an addition pump i am putting inline to provide increase pressure for a blow through carb turbo application.

captain, I believe they are the same as the intake bolts. I thing the problem is I bought a set of studs that were the correct thread pattern, M8 x 1.25, but some idiot use a bolt with a similar but different thread pattern and that kept the studs from threading properly. I just wanted to check before i get an M8 x 1.25 tap and try and clean up the problem. Thanks

Some knot head used all kinds of different bolts. I don’t think there is a matching set. What is the thread pattern supposed to be?

What size are the bolts/studs (M10 x1.5?) for the head, will the ARP kit for the ka24e work? How about replacement studs for intake and exhaust manifold? The fellow that last worked on my truck used a batch of bolts of which non matched another. All seemed to have similar pitched threads thank God. I would like to find studs, is the proper size stud M8 x 1.5 about 40mm?