These forums have been a huge help, but now I'm at a loss.
So here's the backstory. I have a 1968 Datsun Roadster 2000 that at some point prior to me getting the car had the stock U20 swapped out for a L16. The L16 has been in the car since the 80's. This past summer I started working on the car. It had problems galore, but I had it running and driving and it would fire up with the turn of a key.
The roadster sat outside under a tarp up until about 2 months ago when I tired starting it to move it inside the garage. It fired up and ran with some help of starter fluid for about 5 mins then died and wouldn't start again. It would turn over, but wouldn't start. I checked for fuel (it has an inline fuel pump installed) and it's getting fuel to the carb. I checked for spark and I'm getting a white spark from the dizzy to the plugs. When I first started working on the car this past summer the coil was dead. It would turn over but wouldn't start (like it's doing now) so I recently bought a new coil and tried swapping it out and nothing changed. I rotated the crankshaft to TDC (compression stroke) and checked the timing. The dizzy rotor was pointing to #1 cylinder and plug wires from the cap are wired 1,3,4,2 (counterclockwise). I also ran a new wire from the neg. side of the coil to the dizzy where the tach connects.
However, I just recently noticed that I'm getting 12 volts from the ballast resistor to the coil when the key is turned to the ON position. From what I've read I should be getting 6v at the ON position and only 12v when the key's turned to START position. I know continuous 12v to the dizzy can cause the points to burn out (I believe what's installed is the original distributor). However, I'm not sure how long this setup has been this way. I'm assuming since I got the car, cause I haven't re-wired anything from the ballast resistor to dizzy (except installing a new coil twice).
I'm running out of ideas of how to get this thing running. I'm hoping someone on here might be able to help.
Thanks in advance.