Cyan910

I’m willing to sacrifice ride quality to make the car more driveable, i.e. more capable of taking corners, less rubbing/bottoming out etc. Does anyone have any other suggestions for coilovers then? The reason I want coilovers is so I can play around and adjust everything to suit as best as possible if that makes sense. My other preferred option would be to look at getting custom air suspension fitted, but obviously that’d cost just a little more than a pack of chips . . .

Yeah I do in fact have positive camber for some reason, just the tiniest amount. You can only notice it when someone else is driving it and you're following them down the road. Practically neutral but yeah it is noticeable. And as for my offsets they are indeed negative. Can't remember how much but they are big numbers. The link I posted above is a pic of my car currently. Like I said before the rear fenders have been cut and welded. Any more cutting and I'd be cutting into the rear doors. I should note that the rubbing is on the actual car body - not the over-fenders/fender flares. The wheels actually tuck perfectly under the fender flares when the car's loaded, with no rubbing that I'm aware of. Anyway, surely a harder spring rate/less travel would stop or at least improve rubbing? Hence why I have spring spacers currently. They help immensely but they're not suppose to be permanent. How would I go about using s13 coilovers? I've read that you need to use s13 hubs and brakes, is this correct? Are there any other options for suspension upgrading, aside from getting custom springs made? Thanks.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZILJPGD-Wi0rkNm2B9jp3FA9rLf37vO-/view?usp=sharing I understand that there'll be people who really dislike what I've done to my car, but I'm not here for opinions or criticism. I'm here for helpful information that could be useful for others too. It'd be great to have one solid thread/source of info on 910 suspension upgrading. Because I can't find any solid info out there, apart from little bits that only people who are already "in the know" can really find useful.

Yeah we call them fenders here in nz. Idk why I called them guards haha. Adjustable camber plates isn’t a must but would be preferable. I do understand that lowering it will induce negative camber which will be necessary since I have bolt-on over-fenders. I run 205/60’s if I recall correctly so the tyres are very stretched. I don’t want to run extreme camber like the Japanese or all the jdm fanboys haha but just enough to get the wheels to fit and prevent rubbing. A few degrees absolute max. I’ll post some pics soon when I get the chance.

Can’t find any solid info on the web about suspension options for the ‘83 910 sedan. I currently run 14x9’s and 14x10’s, stock 4x114.3 pcd on stock suspension with spring spacers to minimise tyre rubbing. Rear guards have been cut. Doesn’t rub when it’s just 1 or 2 people unless nailing the corners, but a full load and the tyres rub going down the straight over most bumps. So I’m looking at upgrading the suspension to stop the rubbing, and to also lower it if possible. Would like to look at getting coil overs with adjustable camber plates (I’m not a fan of the stock positive camber lmao). I’ve heard that s13 coils work with minimal mods but not exactly sure what needs to be done or whether they’ll work with my current wheels. Want to do both front and rear of course. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

I have the big single dch340 Hitachi, originally equipped with a big round light-blue air box with a short snorkel attached. The hole in the bottom of the snorkel for the insulated pipe is vacant. As we said, manual choke and no AC. Sorry I have no pics atm my phone is too old to even be able to upload any.

I should probably source a vacuum operated one then since it's usually cold where I live in NZ and most if the time I drive around town with the choke on, having said that my Bluebird never came with a vacuum operated one even though she's the 'top of the line' model. Seems fitting when it has no AC and other features that overseas models have lmao NZ for the win. BTW everytime I have a new question that's off-topic the original topic should I make a new thread or just continue discussing in my current one? I don't wanna be a pain in the ass but I have plenty of questions. Is it normal for the rpm to skyrocket when changing gears from WOT? For my engine I must take it easy when shifting gears, if I try to shift quickly the rpm will decide to go for a mountain run! Even if I let off the throttle for half a moment before dipping the clutch it will still jump up momentarily (at WOT, this is). This is only really prominent in higher gears at speed but can still happen in the lower gears too. Is this possibly because of a vacuum leak? Or is this simply the nature of the L20B? I think I remember reading another thread on here talking about something similar to this after searching for the cause. Thanks for all the help too this is an awesome community.

Thanks for the info Mike, but your not talking about the switch that is visible on the snorkel, that you can operate manually by hand? It has a sticker that says "Summer/Winter" with arrows pointing in respective directions. My knowledge tells me this switch acts like a choke for the air filter itself and forces the air to come from around the exhaust manifold like you said (despite me not having the insulated pipe, the air filter unit is sourced from a junkyard). From what you said it sounds like this is what you're referring to, correct me if I'm wrong though. What I'm thinking of is a thin rubber hose that runs from the left side of the carb base, up into the air box itself, just like the much bigger rubber hose that runs from the rocker cover also directly into the air box (for recycling gasses and fumes I believe.) At the end of the thin hose inside the air box is the flappy thing that looks like it's suppose to shut off from vacuum from the carb (different line to the vacuum advance for the distributor). I've been stumbled on what this thing is for so long, even my eccentric-inventor-neighbour-who's-pretty-goddamn-intelligent-and-knowledgeable doesn't know what it is which is very surprising :lol:

Got another question, kinda off topic but anyways, on the base of the carb next to the mixture screw is a tube that runs into the bottom of the stock air filter housing. Inside the housing where the tube connects is a little flap thingy. What is this line for? What does it do and is it really necessary to include this in a custom intake? Thanks in advance again.

Hellooooooo, After searching everywhere I haven't managed to find any info on factory jetting for Hitachi's DCH340 that was used on the L20B. Anybody have anything? Also am I right in saying that some of them had some sort of high-speed enrichment system? My DCH340's both came on NZDM spec L20Bs'. Manual choke, no AC. I'm looking at trying to put one of my carbs back to (or as close to) factory standards after my old man whacked both of 'em together on one of our engines and 'customised' the jetting. :thumbup: Another question, when it comes to multiple-carb setups, does jetting have to be adjusted to compensate? For example having one carb per 4 cylinders needs to deliver sufficient A/F for 4 cylinders, whereas say 1 carb per cylinder only has to focus on their own cylinder, so would jetting have to reduce A/F delivery if there is more than one carb? Or does nothing change??? Any help is very much appreciated, thanks!