Deleteme

I get my little sister to paint parts I pull off :) I fixed the engine, busted the nuts off the BPT valve and plugged the hole.

You can see that massive crack in my last photo

The BPT valve was cracked in half next to one of the mounting bolts. The bolts we're so rusted, and one was hard to reach. I used gasket maker to seal the crack and the idle slowed right down. It ran so smooth. Did not solve hesitation. Sprayed carb cleaner in top of BPT valve, engine responded. Hack sawed top of BPT valve off, sealed vacuum. Runs like bag of shit and won't idle. No longer hesitates. Shouldn't effect engine at idle anyways. Wtf. What is port for, that is next to the vacuum advance on the carb? it pushes air. I have it capped. Installed tachometer, "idles" at 900. Turning idle mix screw does NOTHING. Indicates I still have a leak? Used carb cleaner method, intake manifold gasket suspect, but did not respond to dubious amounts of cleaner.

Thanks man, I'll check on the electricals. I think I could hear the sound of high voltage crackling when I took it for a spin. But might've been loose stuff. Do you guys replace the stock coil?

Did the vacuum lines this way. Seems correct. Works fine. Still stumbles when a press the gas at a particular point, same issue as before I replaced the carb. Thinking...timing.

Alright, pulled the rad off. New hoses on. Old piece of shit won't come off hose clamps replaced. Pulled off smog air pump, wouldn't come off bracket, fiddle fucked bracket off. Pulled off rest of emissions crap. It bothered me too much. Replaced rad thermostat and gasket. Bent wrench. Broke wrench. Wrench Still works. Hate cast iron. Need forged. Left charcoal canister? Where to connect these vacuum lines? Distributor vacuum advance, and other vacuum below carb that causes surging when not capped.

Good idea! I'd hate to have one snap off. Thanks for the tip.

Success! Turns out the rebuilt carburetor had a spring installed backwards, causing it to be in the way of the fast idle cam, so the cam would never step down. Armed with a thermostat and it's housing gasket, coolent and hoses - plus a new 12 mm wrench - Should fix up fine. Now for this wrench fabrication... Fast idle cam getting stuck against spring.

Previously turned out fast idle screw, fast idling cam is on first cam step. Looking at repair Manuel on AutoZone. Eric the car guy might be helpful too. I'll update on my endeavors...

Well I did adjust that screw and mirrored the other carb. It stopped screaming. It is still going too fast, setting the idle doesn't even come into play yet. I can't figure out how to slow it down. It's not getting any throttle, so wtf. Fast idle...too fast.

Thanks Mike, I'll go grab those in a bit. Solved carb problem again. I was wrong about the spring. Turns out the bottom butterfly that's actuated by the throttle cable...well the adjusting screw is set too high. The top choke mechanism...I don't understand. It's got a dial for lean and rich, and it is what makes the choke spring into place. However...turned to the left it is springy, turned to the right and the choke flaps in the wind. The original carb is set to the right and operates fine, springy. I don't understand.

Ok, found the problem: return spring for butterfly valve incorrectly installed. Appears to need more loops of spring, too loose and unsprung.

I could not identify the leak after it hit the fan. Gonna go look again today. It was I assume pure antifreeze, I added water when I saw it was low, perhaps the lower boiling point of water caused high steam pressure. Where is the thermostat coolent opener thanglejag valve? the piece on the engine connected to the top radiator hose? When I removed the fuel rail to get at the left carb bolt I learned the bolt holding the rail also bolts down a coolent senseing/distribution area. Idle is not ok, I need to understand the choke mechanism, the one top butterfly, it opens too much when I start the pickup. The butterfly goes from closed to open a few degrees, but it's enough to make it scream.

Ya it turned out to be a fragment of throttle cable less than it needed, like a milimeter and also I was turning the air/fuel mixture screw and not the idle screw! And the choke mechanism doesn't hold it's place very well. Had to hold the choke and push the throttle down after turning the idle screw out to the max. But now I have sprung a leak. Bottom radiator hose was ice cold...top hose was hot. Overflow hose to resevoir was cold aswell. The original carburetor is much more solid and less finicky. The choke mechanism on this new one is shit.

Ok, wasn't the idle screw, now I need help. Engine starts up and goes full throttle, what's the likely cause? Air filter is off, did it with it on. No missing vacuum's. Gas below dot in fuel window. WTF?