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LKPar1270

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  • Location
    Oregon USA
  • Cars
    '29 Ford PU and '64 Datsun 320
  • Interests
    Building and working on cars

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  1. Yes, that's probably the way I'll go
  2. Getting ready to rebuild the 24z in my 320 and thinking about buying a new or rebuilt head. Found them on the net, seems like good price and their dicription of what they do to the heads sounded pretty good.
  3. Has anyone dealt with Clearwater Cylinder Head out of Florida? If so would you recommend them?
  4. LKPar1270

    NapZ in a 320

    Obviously you don't know if its adjustable. Just an fyi, everyone on this site are not ignorant. Thanks for helping those that are.
  5. LKPar1270

    NapZ in a 320

    That's correct. V A comes on just after idle and fades at about quarter throttle, just as it should. On cold engine with no preheat on the incoming air makes for a lean mixture. I know I can get by with maybe 12 degrees of the vacuum advance, but the 20 or more is more than this engine's configuration can stand. I will go ahead and pull the vacuum advance module off, open that plugged hole and see what's in there, hoping it's a set screw to adjust the amount of pull it has.
  6. LKPar1270

    NapZ in a 320

    I am very well aware of how a distributor operates, I totally understand the advance mechanisms. I've been working on cars for atleast 50 years, built 2 from ground up. I thought I needed to explain what was happening for your benifit. I will find a way to limit the vacuum advance, just thought someone on here knew if the vacuum advance was adjustable before I tear into it.
  7. LKPar1270

    NapZ in a 320

    Already did all this. With vacuum disconnected the knock is gone. With it connected and timing light on, engine cold, you can watch the timing climb as the knock increases. I'm getting about 20 to 24 degrees of advance from the vacuum advance. The knock is almost undetectable when the engine is up to temperature. If I could get hot air to the air cleaner it would probably only last a few minutes but there's no room to shield the exhaust manifold and get the hot air to the intake side of the engine.
  8. LKPar1270

    NapZ in a 320

    I used a distributor for an '86 z24, it was new.
  9. LKPar1270

    NapZ in a 320

    Wasn't sure whether to post here or in the 720 area, but since I have a 320, chose here. I have a z24i in my 320 which, as I'm quite 'old school' I discarded the ego and installed a Weber 32-38 progressive carb. The question I'm dealing with is the vacuum advance is too much for cold running. In the mornings when cold the detonation is bad enough that it sounds like loosing a rod. Retarding the timing isnt any help as I've move it to 5° and with only a little help in reducing the knock, but severely degrading warm running. I'm looking for a way to limit the amount of vacuum advance. I see the advance module has an area that is filled with some sort of epoxy. Are these things adjusted by manufacturer and then sealed? If so, I could remove that seal and adjust to my liking?
  10. Definitely not stock. With the Mallory triggering the tech it was correct when checked with my inductive pickup tech. When the Mallory died I put the sencer wire from the tech to the negative side of the intake coil and surprise, it acted the same as it did a year ago when I switched to the Mallory. It reads high by several hundred rpm, drifts around while idling, and reacts very slowly to rev increases. My oldest son bought the same tech and is using it on a late model bow tie LS with no problem. The tech is a Chineese model that matches my speedo and fits nicely in the 320s instrument panel. I feel it doesn't like the square wave put out by the Nissan distributor.
  11. I have a '64 320 which I put an '88 NapZ z24 in. I'm running standard automotive coils and the engine runs very well with this setup. My problem is my techometer doesn't operate correctly, it reads several hundred rpm high, wanders some, and is just unreliable. I had a Mallory HyFire ignition connected to the exhaust bank coil just to trigger the tech, but after a year of use the HyFire (which was a used unit) tech signal quit working. I didnt like using that thing anyway. What are you guys using to correct the signal from the distributor so a tech will work with it?
  12. What is a good source fo king pins and bushings?
  13. I did the swap, very happy with the hearing. Must say though, everything I've read says it's a simple swap...Not! Maybe the 510 3rd member is the same, but the 720 case is larger inside to account for larger spider gears. I had to make shims out of brass to back the splined gears, 180 thousandths each side. But with that they fit nicely, no slop and smooth running. If you have the ability to make these shims, I recommend this swap.
  14. HyFire is Mallory's version of MSD. I only put it on for the tach trigger, since I could not get a proper trigger from the stock ignition. I'm thinking maybe the stock ignition wasn't triggering the tach because the intake side of the distributor isn't working. I'm gonna hook the tach directly to the exhaust side coil and see if that works, if so I'll remove the CDI.
  15. No, I just switched the module exhaust side wire to the intake coil and the modual intake wire to the exhaust side coil. For some reason, even though the module intake wire won't fire the plugs, there must be some signal left to tell the Hyfire it's trying to work because the Hyfire still sends a tach signal. The Hyfirs isnt connected to a coil because it won't fire the plugs either. Left it getting its signal from the intake side of the module. Don't want to connect it to the exhaust signal side of the module incase it was the cause OS signal loss to begin with.
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