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Member Since 11 Jan 2018
Offline Last Active Today, 09:18 AM

#1551439 How much do drive your vintage Datsun???

Posted by Toxicrain on 14 March 2018 - 08:04 AM

I got 12k miles on my 720 ive had for about 9 months now i was doing about 800 miles a week but now I am trying to not drive my 720 as much because I don't want it to blow up on me ( drive to work is 40 miles along hwy 1 at 80 mph) and I feel like it is meant to be a Sunday driver or a weekend vehicle.

#1548719 '85 720 2WD blown headgasket :/

Posted by Toxicrain on 28 February 2018 - 10:41 AM

captain, I believe they are the same as the intake bolts.


I thing the problem is I bought a set of studs that were the correct thread pattern, M8 x 1.25, but some idiot use a bolt with a similar but different thread pattern and that kept the studs from threading properly.  I just wanted to check before i get an M8 x 1.25 tap and try and clean up the problem.  




I can get you a correct thread and pitch but it wont be until Saturday because ill take a bolt off friday and match it up at my work. Im sure you will have an answer by then though. that sucks that the PO had not done it properly. Part of the reason im afraid of buying used trucks because of the hack jobs people come up with including myself. Hope that your tapping process doesn't have any problems :)

#1548551 Max's 1986 Nissan 720 King Cab 4x4

Posted by Toxicrain on 27 February 2018 - 02:22 PM

i also put a vinyl wrap on the grey piece in between the cluster and the cluster itself i used a blue carbon fiber vinyl. and i used some nail polish to paint the needles of the gauges blue. and the green turn signal plastic piece i used a old coffee can that was blue cut the out with an exacto knife and now my turn signal blink blue instead of green :) i laso changed all my lights to LEDs so they are a little bit brighter

Links? Pictures? I just had my cluster out sunday and i fixed the Trip odo (peg fell out of place and busted it apart pretty much... nothin good ol super glue wont fix :D) I was thinking about coloring it or changing the bulbs but I need to focus on mechanical problems rather than cosmetics right now..

#1548490 '85 720 2WD blown headgasket :/

Posted by Toxicrain on 27 February 2018 - 08:33 AM

KAs use torque to yield bolts that must be thrown away after use. The Z series are totally reusable if undamaged. If worried about the head gasket simply re-torque each bolt separately once a year. This re-news and keeps the clamping force on the gasket. Loosen one bolt and tighten to 60 ft. lbs. then move to the nest bolt. Any order you like as long as only one bolt loose at a time. Do this on a cold engine.


For intake and exhaust, take a representative bolt into a hardware store that sells metric fasteners and buy all you need.

Yea when I was checking my exhaust manifold and noticed that almost all of them were missing ??? took 1 bolt into my store and got replacements for a whopping .30 each and now im thinking my manifold is leaking because there are no gasket butting against the block?? idk it hasnt really bothered me..

#1548000 Fuel gauge light could be better

Posted by Toxicrain on 24 February 2018 - 10:43 AM

I haven't seen a write up on here, but dash removal is in the FSM. The cluster is pretty easy to get out though. There are two screws facing upwards on the upper part of the black cluster bezel, and two clips on the bottom that hold it in; pull straight out and take your time so you don't break them. Under the bezel there are like four screws that hold the cluster in place. Disconnect all the plugs (don't bother marking as they are unique to each spot, and disconnect the speedo cable (see this for what it looks like). The job is easier when you remove the steering column cover as well. 

Alright idk why i didnt think of my manual (lazy i guess) thanks for the thread link and tips. I did attempt to take the cluster out before but i felt it tugging on the plugs and i didn't want to stretch a wire or pull a pin out or something stupid so i put the screws back in and let it be. I guess what im looking for is a step by step method to taking out something simple lol. I also want to open the cluster to diagnose if i can fix the trip odo as I pushed it in one day and i think the spring or whatever it pushes against fell out or busted -.- Just noticed by reading that thread that u dealt with the same exact problem I am dealing with lol at least im not the only one and now i got a project to do tomorrow because i got no parts lined up to sell :(

#1547996 Fuel gauge light could be better

Posted by Toxicrain on 24 February 2018 - 10:22 AM

anyone have a link to a forum with pictures on how to remove dash and cluster so I can check out the wiring behind? The PO had chopped the old radio wires i noticed when putting my new headset in and i know there are live wires just taped shut and i want to make sure that nothing shorts out etc. and i want to check my tach issue as well to see if its just a bad wire or whatever

Heres a pic of a gauge i found online rq

And any input on my temp gauge? heres the low down..
at normal op temp it sits right in between the two lines down by the "C". And usually never moves from that spot until after driving up a big hill the max the gauge will go is just under half way. (Never gone above the 2nd squiggly line on the gauge. Any ideas if it is fixable/replaceable or what is going on or i should just live with it? I have a heat gun that I havn't gotten around to testing the temperature because the alt issue -.-

Truck has never had any overheating problems that I know of. Only overheating problem ive had was the Hot days issue of I think what was fuel boiling / cut out issue that im not sure is fixed yet due to the whole thread i made that some of you responded to.(going to try and not rant about it lol)

#1545835 85 King Cab - Sell or Parts?

Posted by Toxicrain on 14 February 2018 - 11:16 AM

It'd be easiest for you to sell the whole truck for parts or to someone who doesn't mind driving it like that. You'd get more money parting it out, but it would take several years, if you ever do get all of it gone.

Idk about several years (almost ready to dump the rest of whats left of my 81 parts truck so i can start wrenching apart the 99 ram 1500 i bought for $250) and ive only had the 81 for about 2 months.


Parting it out would almost guarantee a bigger profit rather than selling someone the whole thing but that also goes back to if you have the room/time/tools etc.


if you have the room and time to part it i would say go for it as from my experience so far of parting out the 81 has made me a lot more confident in wrenching on my 85 because the extra bucket of parts and if something goes wrong I have a template to look at.


As for pricing items when ur selling parts I use car-part.com, ebay, and pick-n-pull pricing to list my items. I usually match whatever price I find and charge 20/hr for my time to wrench on it. and if the customer wants to come and wrench on the truck i wont charge labor.


Example: couple Sundays ago I had someone over wrenching on it themselves and I just stayed inside and watched football and got paid $100 for parts i didn't even have to touch.. Even though i may have been able to make another $100-150 total off the parts he took i'm not worrying about it so much because the conversations with other people and 720s is satisfying to say that their truck is back on the road because of me.

#1545664 Parts truck build/One wasn't enough

Posted by Toxicrain on 13 February 2018 - 10:26 AM

Ok cool, how low can I go before I start messing stuff up? Could I go an inch or so without any trouble?

There are tons of information on torsion bar dropping. I wont do it on mine because I drive at an avg of 75 up to 100mph and i dont want a stiff ass ride so im holding out until i can find someone that can install air-ride or bag it.


What you want to keep track of is how far you drop each side and make sure it is dropped the same height or your going to throw your whole front end off. I read somewhere that as a precaution to your suspension because your basically tightening the springs is people retourque the ball joints after so they are set at whatever your drop is to increase longevity of the components. 


The limit to as low as u can go is until the bar doesnt have thread anymore or you bottom out or rub etc..

#1545146 Chasing down fuel issue 85' z24 weber 32/36

Posted by Toxicrain on 10 February 2018 - 08:49 AM


Checked all the wires with a continuity tester and wiggled them too and it was solid. I asked the shop i work next to and they said it could be a bad new alternator from autozone even though its been checked?? Idk what the next steps are to trying to figure it out.. if i get a chance i might just drive it to a shop and get some more eyes on it.

#1545143 Headliner 720 single cab

Posted by Toxicrain on 10 February 2018 - 08:20 AM

All Except D21 Series and Pathfinder

The headliner assembly is of the suspension type, which is held in place by listing wires. Use this service procedure as guide for this type of repair.

  1. Remove the dome lamp, assist grips inside rear view mirror and sun visors, if so equipped.
  2. Remove the rear finisher and rear side finisher.
  3. Remove the windshield glass, if necessary weatherstrip and windshield pillar cloth.
  4. Remove the back window glass and weatherstrip, if necessary.
  5. Disengage the listing wires from the roof rail and remove the headlining from back to front.
  6. Installation is the reverse of removal. Install the headlining from the front to the rear. Be careful not to deform the listing wires.

Off autozone. not sure how much i would trust these instructions but i will look at my manual later and see if anything pops up.

my 85 headliner droops from the back and i have tried spray glue and the heat made it fail so it droops again -.- so I am in the same boat almost as I need to replace that as well eventually. i think it goes into the black jam by the rear window, keep in mind mine is split window and my 81 parts truck has the flat window but doesn't have a headliner at all so im not sure if it is a different setup..

#1544970 Chasing down fuel issue 85' z24 weber 32/36

Posted by Toxicrain on 09 February 2018 - 08:53 AM

My repeated experience has been faulty ignition switches not fuel pump relays.  And I never use scotch locks even in a temporary situation.

running power to fuel pump off the red wire on the 6 connecter plug thing and going to frame after. I dont think that plug shuts off power for any reason when the ignition is turned on so my issue isn't fuel cutting out or not being delivered at all.


Any ideas on how to fix the bogging when the secondary is opened under 4k which the timing advances at around 2800 ive noticed on my z24 at least..

#1544830 New 720 Owner in Need of Help with High Idle

Posted by Toxicrain on 08 February 2018 - 10:50 AM

Yea I see a lot of unplugged holes and missing lines. I would suggest finding a donor or parts car and put it back together because you still have stock carb. or weber and remove. If you look at my 85' fuel issue post. we kinda went over most of the lines and i have many pics posted.

#1542791 Chasing down fuel issue 85' z24 weber 32/36

Posted by Toxicrain on 29 January 2018 - 06:45 PM


2 green 1 black. I wiggled them and they felt like a normal wire. Put new fuses into the ignition and engine control fuse to cancel out that problem.

I will check it out on my next day off.

#1542679 Chasing down fuel issue 85' z24 weber 32/36

Posted by Toxicrain on 29 January 2018 - 09:46 AM

Should I just replace them anyways with new links to remove the possibility of the wires being weak or frayed? and where would I get them other than off another 720 which pick n pull doesnt have one right now.. I'm not sure if they have part #'s i will check my manual when i get a chance and look into it more.
Also wondering if its worth it to get her to a shop and have someone else track down the issue since the main setback has been resolved and i can finish getting the final pieces to rebuild the front end

#1542633 Chasing down fuel issue 85' z24 weber 32/36

Posted by Toxicrain on 28 January 2018 - 11:54 PM

When i put it in the alternator the first time i think i wired power to ground and was getting high arc when trying to put the power cable on and i melted the link once and replaced it with the one out of my 80' parts truck. I just cut new cable and put new post clamps on. Checked all my fuses and they looked good.

I cant really follow the wire that goes to the alt from batter because its in a harness most of the time but the ends look good so im not sure where it could have gone bad.
I found a pic of when i put it in the first time and found my mistake of the power going to ground.. and so I moved the ground to the block and put yellow wire to bat. I know its getting power because i used the multimeter on the post and at the alt.