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ratspec620

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  • Location
    Fayettevile
  • Cars
    620 pickup
  • Interests
    Superbike Racing, Welding, Fabrication, Carbon Fiber

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  1. Hey out there! I finally got my very own bulletside!! I am new and in need of some guidance to ID some issues, please. Thank you in advance!! Premise: A one owner farm truck; rewired "farm-style" with a couple jumpers after the fallowing burnt issue (see below); sat the last ten years, but fired up and ran, though acting cold blooded / not staying running without keeping the revs up. Oil level and quality is good, antifreeze is good, new battery and now the following: Burnt/Melted: Blk/Wht (to the ignition coil resistor); & Wht/Blu (to the Anti-Dieseling Solenoid in the carb) 1) What does a proper/original FUSIBLE LINK look like as it connects the smaller cable from the positive battery terminal out to: **The schematic shows it feeding: Alternator post "A" Ignition switch White wire 2) Why would the IGNITION COIL BALLAST and the IGNITION COIL (fed by the Blk/Wht >>> be getting excessively hot when the battery is connected? What is the normal operating temp for said parts? 3) When I connect the positive lead to the battery and the key is in OFF/ON/ACC position, the Charge and Oil Dummy Lights come on, BUT when I switch the key to start and it is running the lights turn off. I rewired the "Instrument Harness" according to the Chilton's. Later found a thread that had a .png file of the full "Engine Room" and "Instrument/Chassis Harness". Now I am thinking I may need to back track and go through the "Instrument Harness" to double check myself with the better schematic. I am also wondering if: -the oil sensor is bad -the voltage regulator is bad -I may not be grounded OR not making a full circuit somewhere, like the cut temp. sensor sw. (two wires) at the Thermostat housing -One of the other relays or regulators has gone bad
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