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FiremarshalBill49

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  • Location
    Washington State
  • Cars
    Mazda B-3000
  • Interests
    Small cars, aluminum can aircraft, American Civil War.

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  1. Can anyone tell me if the heater/defroster control assembly on a 1977 Datsun 620 will work on my 1972 620? Thanks.
  2. Thanks guys for the input - I really do appreciate it. Unfortunately, my body, arms, and legs just don't bend like they used to, and although I can "see" almost the entire length of the blue w/white stripe wire that goes from the blower motor to the switch, I can't reach it without removing the entire factory air conditioning unit situated below the dash. :-( Bill
  3. What are my options for repairing or replacing the (pull-out/push-in) heater fan switch in my 72' PL620? It has always worked on the high speed only, but now the blower motor isn't coming on at all. I'm almost positive it is an electrical issue. Are new switches still available or is my only option to find a good used one? Are they difficult to replace? Thanks!
  4. Just reduced the price on my 72' 620 (https://www.facebook.com/groups/DCTFS/permalink/1806008662786219/?sale_post_id=1806008662786219). My truck is AT LEAST as nice as this one, and it has cold factory AC.
  5. What is it inside my doors that would cause/allow the windows to rattle when rolled down? The windows don't "seem" lose and the inner and outer window seals at the bottom of the window openings have recently been replaced (cheap Thai replacement parts - don't get me started), but there is a persistent window rattle inside the doors, especially when rolled down. I haven't taken the door panels off yet for a look-see and was wondering if there are some parts I should order before jumping into a fix.
  6. Where do you live in Washington State? I live up in Oak Harbor.
  7. Thanks for the photo explanation! It's perfect for what I need to do. My shift lever is straight with no bend at all. Is this a 521 design feature? Since my truck was manufactured in March of 72' I'm wondering if they were still using leftover 521 parts on the early 620s?
  8. Mike, I can find only one cone shape bushing fitting loosely on the bottom of the shaft itself. What holds these rubber bushings "squeezed" between two washers? Don't suppose you have a photo?
  9. I've definitely got the A type Monkey Motion shifter. Would these eBay bushings like Rick-Rat mentioned help? What's involved with installing a new bushing? Also, my shift rod is straight as an arrow and not angle-bent like later models. I happen to have everything open and accessible right now.
  10. I've got an early 72' PL620 with the L-16 and a 4-speed. I'm pretty sure the transmission is not original. It shifts okay but there is a huge amount of slop (side-to-side) in the straight shift lever. Do you think these bushings help? How hard are they to install? What would I be looking for on eBay? Thanks.
  11. According to PPG Industries (https://www.classiczcars.com/uploads/monthly_2017_11/Body_PaintGuide_1972-datsun-pg01.jpg.cca50d2531c27c07506ba5302c9a8ad8.jpg), it appears there were two different colors of white for 72' Datsuns (number 8895 and 8889). Both called "white". I'm assuming this PPG paint list includes trucks. Where would I find the paint code on my truck to mix some touch up paint? Thanks.
  12. My early 72' PL620 came to me with a stock Hatachi AM radio with one speaker in the passenger side foot well. The reception and sound quality is crap. I'd like to update the sound system a bit without going overboard, but want to keep some semblance of a stock radio look without digital LED lights and such. Of course I'll need at least two new speakers as well. Ideally I'd want something with a CD player, or better yet, a radio with a USB port for playing my favorite tunes. Any suggestions on a replacement head unit? Either new, or a stereo from an older brand/year vehicle? Something that will bolt right in without much fuss and keep somewhat of a stock look? How about speaker size? Appreciate any help you might offer. Thanks.
  13. I asked this morning. Got some valuable feedback, and did it this afternoon. B)
  14. I purchased the Thia-made door window weather strip package (inner and outer, left and right) and was at first impressed with the price (eBay - $54 for all four strips) and delivery time (3 days). But when I went to mount them, I found the mounting clips on all 4 strips did not line up exactly with the clip holes in the door. All four strips were also 1/2" to 3/4" too long so they had to be trimmed to length with tin snips. I then pried off all 22 clips (6 on each inner strip and 5 on each outer strip) and re-positioned and clamped the clips back on the strips where they needed to be to match up with the clip holes in the doors. I then put a dab of epoxy glue on each clip to make sure they didn't move around or slip off. Also, these particular Thai-made outer rubber scraper strips seem to be about 1/16" too narrow (the edge of each mounting hole was just visible from the outside) so I ran a tiny bead of clear calk along bottom edge of these outer strips and gently tapped it into place. It helps if the window is completely down for installation. I'd recommend you mount the inner window strips first and then the outer strips. In the end, the windows don't rattle any more, they're water proof, and look pretty good. Hope this helps anyone replacing their 620 door window weather strips.
  15. I'm ready to install the inner and outer seals along the bottom of my 620 door windows. Any hints or helpful suggestions regarding the procedure?
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