I had people doing the same for me, but everything suggested wouldn't work from my phone, that's why I went with postimage, very straight forward....
Currently I'm on my computer, but I've done the same on my phone. Kinda a PITA though because you have to open Ratsun in full version, not mobile, and then zoom in to see the post options. I know it's a convoluted way to do it but, I've had a way higher success rate than it seems most people have at posting pics here lol.
RW It is not the easiest thing to do but it is doable. You can download you complete photos from PhotoBucket at 1 time or if you have lots of albums of pictures you can do individual albums to help keep your organization if it exists..
I will attemp to do a "How To Download Pictures From PhotoBucket" later.
Keep in mind that it will put the album in a compressed zip file for the download. If you don't have the program that allows you to "unzip" the file, it's a pretty useless option. I'll add to this though, it's not hard to use Google and find a free download of the needed program.
All I did was click on your Flickr link, click on the share icon, open the BBcode tab, copy the web address from inbetween the [img] tags, and paste into the pop up box after clicking on the image icon in the Ratsun reply options.
I have rarely had the predone imbed code work here on Ratsun. I find it works every time I use the cut and paste method of a .jpg or .gif address into the image popup box.
Funny thing is, all I want to keep is the Time Attaxi. I'm not a fan of the Z-car, just grabbed them to give to other people here that may want one lol. The lower Z-car has a ripped section at the hanger area if it matters.
Yes I forgot to say all 6 bolt are the same. (well not the Dodge 6 bolt)
Or new Fords.
And OP, whatever you do, never ever do what you want to your own truck. Always give in to what these "purists" tell you what to do lol
Shits and grins, yet another time I post a pic of my D21...
Not sure how much of this applies to a 620 unless you change over to D21 front suspension, but machined Toyota front hubs, and a Toyota rear axle is what was used on the D21 in the pic. Not super expensive, medium amount of modification skills needed (welding is needed, and machining of the hubs is required, only for the 5 lug part, not how low the truck sits). I do recommend you grab at least the rear half of the donor Toyota's driveshaft as a hybrid shaft is needed to go from Nissan trans to Toyota 3rd member. Mine is all Nissan except for the last yoke, fortunately the driveshafts are the same diameter and allow for the swap to be fairly easy.
There are some threads over on http://InfamousNissan.com that discuss how the front process was done on a 720, the OP of the thread did all the research and fitting, I admittedly only followed his lead. All has worked great so far, at least a couple thousand miles on it.
PM mklotz on the forum for more on the machining costs for the hubs.
Otherwise, what Jersey said, the redrill, is your best route. I did it on a Mitsubishi truck I had in the late 80's, worked great, still totally safe. I've also used bolt-on adapters as well, the newer true billet adapters made today (as long as you don't go cheap China product) aren't even remotely comparable to the old cast style that still have uniformed peoples panties in knots over their use.
I would also add, flatcat is 100% correct on the Pontiac wheels not being the same pattern. They are a 5 x 4.75 pattern, as are most GM cars of that era (a couple exceptions are some of the larger cars and wagons had the 5 x 5 pattern).
Doing the swap to 5 lug is really only worth it for a 5 x 4.5 pattern as it opens up access to so many more wheel choices, with a multitude of offsets. For your desire to run those Trans-Am wheels, I'd have to say the adapters are the best option and won't limit you later. But I do believe the offset of them is going to be a huge issue.
Lastly, mine is still just yet another opinion posted on the internet, one of an educated and informed asshole, but still just another opinion that holds no more or less weight than any of the others.
96 to early 98 can be programmed with 1 key, not that you have even one key. Ford changed it to 2 keys later after they figured out that meant valets could easily add a key while in their lot.
You should be able to follow the new master key learn process and have it work, it just a long boring process with the long waits in-between steps and high chance of missing the 5 minute windows for the next step due to nodding off lol.
Not sure if you know this already but the PATS system isn't in the tumbler, it's the weird ring mounted around the tumbler in the column. Once at least one key is programmed you can remove that ring, zip tie a working key to it (you can cut off the "key" part to make it easier), stuff it in the lower dash, and then use any normal non-chipped key to start the vehicle. It also means any idiot with a screwdriver can start it too, as you have completely bypassed the system permanently. This was also the normal method used to bypass the systems in the early days of installing aftermarket remote starts in these vehicles.
There are a couple vids on YouTube that explain how to bypass the controls on the motor as well, so then there is no need for a PATS chipped key at all. It's somewhat involved, digging into control boxes and rerouting the wires as needed but it seems less involved with a higher chance of success than the carb mounted on a throttle body technique.
The last option I would throw out is to find the compatible intake from an earlier non-EFI, non-PATS engine and go that route. Should be able to stay low on the costs to stay within the "regs" of the $500 car. Could also sell off some unneeded parts to offset the costs too, very commonly done.