Jump to content


Member Since 18 Feb 2010
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 09:57 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Floor temp light

Yesterday, 09:56 PM

Odd, I would expect this to be activated only when the key is on.


Most fires started by an over-heated catalytic converter are after the car is shut off and the static heat is trapped without airflow. 


Seems like that's when you'd want it to work the most.




Sidenote: I once had a fire start under my truck due to being lowered and parking in taller grass lol.

In Topic: CANBY 2017 IT WILL BEE fun 'n stuff

16 June 2017 - 07:05 PM


Is there a build thread for that thing? I wanna make one now :lol:





There are more versions in the suggested vids too.


Or this one,





it's a secret



Yes, a total secret...

In Topic: CANBY 2017 IT WILL BEE fun 'n stuff

08 June 2017 - 12:55 PM













In Topic: 6 lug to 5 lug conversion

05 June 2017 - 02:31 PM

Yes I forgot to say all 6 bolt are the same. (well not the Dodge 6 bolt)


Or new Fords.





And OP, whatever you do, never ever do what you want to your own truck.  Always give in to what these "purists" tell you what to do lol


Shits and grins, yet another time I post a pic of my D21...




Not sure how much of this applies to a 620 unless you change over to D21 front suspension, but machined Toyota front hubs, and a Toyota rear axle is what was used on the D21 in the pic.  Not super expensive, medium amount of modification skills needed (welding is needed, and machining of the hubs is required, only for the 5 lug part, not how low the truck sits).  I do recommend you grab at least the rear half of the donor Toyota's driveshaft as a hybrid shaft is needed to go from Nissan trans to Toyota 3rd member.  Mine is all Nissan except for the last yoke, fortunately the driveshafts are the same diameter and allow for the swap to be fairly easy.


There are some threads over on http://InfamousNissan.com that discuss how the front process was done on a 720, the OP of the thread did all the research and fitting, I admittedly only followed his lead.  All has worked great so far, at least a couple thousand miles on it.


PM mklotz on the forum for more on the machining costs for the hubs.


Otherwise, what Jersey said, the redrill, is your best route. I did it on a Mitsubishi truck I had in the late 80's, worked great, still totally safe.  I've also used bolt-on adapters as well, the newer true billet adapters made today (as long as you don't go cheap China product) aren't even remotely comparable to the old cast style that still have uniformed peoples panties in knots over their use.




I would also add, flatcat is 100% correct on the Pontiac wheels not being the same pattern.  They are a 5 x 4.75 pattern, as are most GM cars of that era (a couple exceptions are some of the larger cars and wagons had the 5 x 5 pattern). 


Doing the swap to 5 lug is really only worth it for a 5 x 4.5 pattern as it opens up access to so many more wheel choices, with a multitude of offsets.  For your desire to run those Trans-Am wheels, I'd have to say the adapters are the best option and won't limit you later.  But I do believe the offset of them is going to be a huge issue.




Lastly, mine is still just yet another opinion posted on the internet, one of an educated and informed asshole, but still just another opinion that holds no more or less weight than any of the others.

In Topic: Need fuel pump part number for 1986 720 with Z24i engine

05 June 2017 - 01:57 PM





Edited again, correct number, updated part performs job as needed, does not physically look the same.