Datsun_Driver

Thanks Bleach, I'll take a look at the valve clearances and see if there's anything off on the 45psi and the 90 psi cylinders. Does anyone think the 90 is a problem or is that pressure still in normal operating range? It's not running yet, so I can't drive it. I'll try your suggestion about putting kerosene in the cylinder. Hopefully that helps. Is it normal for the fuel pump to not come on when the key is turned to the ready position (right before the 'start' position?) I'm treating it like a problem right now but maybe it's not. Like I said above, I can get the fuel pump to come on when the air flow meter is held open with a screw driver. BUT, if I don't do that, and just turn the key, the pump never comes on. Any idea what could be causing that problem?

Hi all, I'm new to the forum and I need to soak up some Zed knowledge. I purchased a 280z a few years ago and I'm starting the process of restoration now. It's slow going for me. Also, if I've posted this in the wrong section, please let me know. The car has 69k miles on it and it no modifications. It does have a little rust in a few places, and a cheap respray job over the original light metallic blue paint. Right now my goal is to get it back on the road for under 3k (this does not mean 'restored' condition), and drive it occasionally as a second car while I slowly restore it as I am going back to school. I'm tired of paying the storage fees. lol. Well, at the moment I'm working my way through the electrical system and engine. Engine has compression as follows: cylinders in order from firewall, 115, 120, 90, 120, 120, 45. I also just did plugs and wires, a new fuel pump, and a new fuel filter. I did get it to start briefly on starter fluid. I also confirmed it did turn the fuel pump on when the air flow meter was held open with a screw driver. I'm hoping the low compression might just be stuck valves, but we'll see. Anyone with some knowledge to lend on the process of reviving a Z, I would greatly appreciate the input.