RatSeven20

Once I got my head around everything being sideways in the carb everything gelled lol.

Yes. Absolutely. but you can also read a plug for where the fueling issue is - i.e. timing, fueling, ignition, etc. BPR6ES intake and BPR5ES exhaust. I ended up figuring it out. The guy who messed with this before me was an idiot. He not only had the sight glass upside down, he set the float height to that... I disassembled the carb, cleaned it, polished the jets, and reassembled. Re ran vacuum lines, replaced some, adjusted the distributor and adjusted the idle and fuel mixture. Truck starts runs and drives great now. Now just to take care of that nasty exhaust... had a shop quote me $250 today to run a straight pipe to a turn down before the axle ... I laughed on my way out the door. Looking for some other shops tomorrow. Then we will be in business!!

yeah the white strap is usually an indication of too much timing / too much plug gap which is overheating the spark plug. definitely needs to be richer which makes me think its falling on its face due to running out of fuel up top. main jetting is read off the base of the plug and the ceramic. Only thing left to do is clean the carb I suppose. I have no clue where the air mixture screw is on this thing. lol

Went for a short drive. 4-5 Miles. Truck ran much better with the advance hooked back up. Ran pretty good except for full throttle. 1st and 2nd fairly smooth, full gas in 3rd gear and she fell on her face and wouldn't do anything until I let her die and restarted. Then drove normal (minus minimal sputters) back to the house not going more than ¾-ish throttle. I went ahead and pulled the plug off cylinder 1 to look at fueling, and she does seem to be running lean although a small bit. Looking at the ground strap I'd say the ignition is advanced a little far and it could possibly use a shorter plug gap. Going to give the distributor a slight twist to retard the ignition, drop the idle down and check again after a trip to work.

ok so traced some lines and found where i believe it was unhooked, which was basically right beside of it, the other screwed off hose in this picture. got some hose and reconnected that line. I don't have a helper so if i move the throttle linkage while cold , by hand, the choke plate should still operate no? I can easily move the plate with my finger. as for the open tube, I still have the line to that running to the air filter box, it's just unplugged while working on this. Ive got a little rubber cap I place on it while tinkering. I feel lost not having a manual at my fingertips, everything is either google, Mike, or tracing it by hand and trying to figure out exactly what it is and where it goes/comes from. It's fun! but also frustrating.

Thanks for the replies. I'm looking at the advance line that was capped off, but can't seem to figure out where exactly it is supposed to be plugged in at the distributor? I was going to run to the parts store and get some more line to re-attach it. And yes, I have the o2 sensor and what appears to be the ECC carb. Considered getting a weber, but my original idea down the road was outfitting a set of Keihin FCR36 and a custom runner. I'm a motorcycle technician by trade just haven't dealt with car carburetors very much, they operate on the same basic principle but everything is sideways to me! lol. As for now though I just want to get her running smoothly.

Ok guys, looking for some advice. I've tried to use the search bar, either to no avail or every useful thread I found no longer has any of the images which makes it useless to me. The truck is running, and I can drive down the road... well.. sort of. Here's my issue: When I start the truck I'm getting a ticking/buzzing noise, I can't seem to narrow it down. It's a faster ticking and it seems to sound the loudest from inside the throttle body. I did manage to notice that if I felt with my hand the only part I could 'feel' the noise was what I believe is the dashpot? Its the thing with the screw adjustment in the middle of it in the first picture. I have notice my choke plate doesn't seem to move... ever. So the truck starts up fine when cold with a quick prime of the pump ( I turn the key just enough that the fuel pump kicks on but not the starter) and a quick 3-4 pumps of the accelerator pedal and voila! She runs good , albeit a little high on the idle, until she starts to warm up. If I take my hand and open the throttle it seems to rev up fine with minimal sputtering etc. no issues, no dying.. fairly smooth. If I take off down the road I usually get to 3rd gear and then she starts falling on her face. After that it never seems to straighten out. It will spit and sputter, cut in and out, and then usually die altogether. When this happens it becomes much more difficult to start. So basically the truck runs like crap under load. I did notice a previous owner has already capped off a few vacuum lines. Here is what I have done /replaced: New Fuel Tank New Carson fuel pump New K&N fuel filter New fuel lines New distributor cap, rotor New plug wires New plugs leading and trailing (intake / exhaust) I have verified that the fuel pump is still running when the truck is having its issues. I have also taped off part of the carburetor to see if it helped, which it does run a bit smoother, but still cuts in and out and has issues. I'm not sure whether to rebuild this carb (if it is the carb) or buy a weber and never look back. I don't really want to spend any more money on the truck than I have to, as the point is for it to be a cheap , reliable work vehicle with some retro coolness. Any help is appreciated.

that's insane lol. I'm going to have to browse build threads and see what all everyone has gotten into on here... the stuff I haven't seen.

Thanks Mike. random thought but you wouldn't be the same 3d magic mike that's building that killer 620 would you? And I did look through the classifieds section, which I will keep an eye on. Just didn't know if anyone knew a supplier other than the forums where people were finding these parts. I found some on ebay from thailand and wasn't sure on how much I trusted ordering them through that route. User had lots of good reviews, but also several mentioning never getting their parts. At $100 for 2 seals that's a high risk ! lol thanks again

Hey Guys, first post on the forums.. I've been a browser for years and finally joined. Picked up a 720 85 model recently, which I'm going through currently. I plan on posting a build thread soon. But for now I've almost got her roadworthy; however I need a few important parts and after hours at night searching I'm turning to the forums for help. Here's what I need if anyone on here knows where I can get any of it: Outside door window seals ( the rubber ones that keep water from running inside the door. Fuel sending unit (I did a decent job of cleaning the original but the coil that sends the signal is destroyed) Door window felts ( I have a universal set ordered on amazon, hoping they will work) Shifter boot to the floor The truck is a 1985 Base model 2wd short cab. Built in Smyrna, TN with the 2.4 - I'll have to post the full vin decode in my build thread. Thanks in advance guys. If you have any of the parts mentioned obviously feel free to message me! I could also use the section of metal inner fender on the driver side from roughly the radiator support to behind the battery tray. Only rust on the vehicle was in this location (assuming battery acid destroyed paint at some point which led to the accelerated rusting) If not I will be shaping and welding in a hand made piece.