6spd_monte

Normally I would agree, but it would need tires anyway before I make the trip. So they're all 2", front and rear? I could've swore I read someplace that the rears were smaller, like 1.6" or so but I can't find that info again. Anyway, that's why I'm here asking. I'm pretty sure (but not 100% sure) that the 810 shares rear struts with the 280ZX, if that helps. I understand that the spring perch vs tire will be the limiting factor and I'm ok with that, and thanks - I think it'll be pretty cool too! Maybe I'm a glutton for punishment, or too ambitious for my own good, but I'm going to do my best to make this happen. I'll do the measuring before I commit to anything that might derail the trip. If something looks like it isn't going to work out right, I'll just buy some new tires for the OE wheels and drive it like that. I appreciate the tips and advice, thanks!

They're 15x7 with zero offset and 195/50 tires. This combo has been done successfully by others so I'm feeling pretty confident. Still open to feedback though.

Greetings everyone! It's been a while since I was active here, like 2 years or so... You see, shortly after I signed up on the forum and introduced myself we ended up moving to Washington State and I wasn't able to bring the Datsun with me at the time. But fear not! I still own it, it's just temporarily living in storage in San Diego. I've been down there to visit a few times and the 810 fires right up and runs like a champ each time I'm there. It looks like I might have an opportunity to drive it home to the PNW in early July. But of course I'd like it to look a bit cooler on the road trip than it currently does so I've got some stuff planned. I'm ordering new wheels and tires for it. I'm having them shipped straight to SoCal so I can just throw them on and hit the road. Well, it also needs an altitude adjustment so I'm hoping to lower it a bit while I've got the wheels off and all the tools out. (I have a couple of questions about that, I made another post in the suspension section for it.) And I yanked the big square US market bumpers off of it before we moved, but it shouldn't be running around all bumper-less right? I was able to get my hands on one of those fancy slim bumpers off a 200b, so it will have a front bumper for the trip. No luck on the rear bumper yet but I'm still looking. Anyway, that's what's new with me. I'll post updates as things (hopefully) progress. -James

I know this has been discussed a few times already, but I couldn't quite find the info I'm looking for in my searches. Probably my eyes are glazed over from reading too much Internet. I'm looking to lower my '79 810 coupe. I understand that it's pretty straightforward to do the front struts using the split-collar method so that's what I'm planning to do. Here's where I need a bit of guidance: 1) Can I lower the rear using the same method as the front? 2) Am I correct that the collars I need are 2 inch ID for the front? 3) What size collar will I need for the rear struts? I would go out and get the measurements myself but the car is 1400 miles away at the moment and I'm trying to get everything in order from a distance, so to speak. Thanks in advance for the help 👍 -James

Well now that the 810 is running right I've been driving it more often and I can't help but notice there's a crazy knocking from the right front corner when driving over uneven pavement. I took a look under the car the other night to see if anything was obviously wrong. It didn't take long to find the culprit.... So I got busy researching the idler arm. As I'm sure you know, these arms are somewhat unique (at least in my experience) in that they use replaceable bushings on the pivot shaft. Good news: I found the Nissan part number (48544-H1000)! Bad news: I called my local dealer and they told me it's discontinued. Good news: They also gave me the phone number of the next closest dealer that shows some in stock! Bad news: They're 450 miles away. Good news: I called them anyway and they were happy to ship the bushings to me! The part number is for a single bushing and two are required. A pair with tax and shipping cost me just under $24, vs roughly $130 (plus tax and shipping) for a complete new arm from several online retailers. I removed the arm and took it apart, cleaned it, painted it and reassembled with the new bushings. I also replaced the threaded plug with a grease fitting. I'm not sure why they wouldn't have done that in the first place. Pictures! That pile of crumbs is all that was left of the old bushings, shown with the new ones for comparison. All back together, no more noise and the steering is a bit more responsive :thumbup: I did read somewhere that the replacement bushings only fit if you have a Nissan arm to start with. If it's already been replaced with an aftermarket arm either the pin or the bore is a different diameter. All I can confirm is that my arm had a Nissan logo on it and the bushings fit perfectly.

Is the show parking just for show quality cars? Can I park my 810 in there even if it's not a show car? If I park in the show area, am I committed to stay there till the end of the event or can I leave whenever I want? Do I need to contact Jose and register ahead of time or do I just show up and pay at the gate? Sorry for all the questions, this is my first Datsun get-together.

I went through this with my van about 6 years ago. I got t-boned by someone coming out of a parking lot. It was at the time a 24 year old Chevy and of course it was totaled. The van still drove straight and all the doors opened and closed ok (it was hit on the left side behind the B-pillar where there's no sliding door), and none of the windows were broken so I decided it was worth fixing (at least to me). I don't remember the exact numbers but I think it was something like $1200 compensation for the vehicle loss, and then $400 for me to get it back. I think I netted around $800. What's important is that I was able to haggle them up to a higher value. I pointed out that I was not injured and therefore not filing any medical claims for them to pay out. I also reminded them that they offered me a rental vehicle while the claim was being processed and I declined that because I had another car to drive. They only came up about $200 or so, but that's $200 I wouldn't have had if I didn't push for it. Best of luck, and sorry about your truck.

Ok guys it's all back together and I must say, it runs like a champ! @Crashtd420 I was able to send the injectors out to a place called Witch Hunter Performance (http://witchhunter.com/). They came back with a report card showing before and after testing, turns out they were in pretty good shape to begin with but there was some room for improvement. I was unsuccessful in locating a new intake duct, I guess they've been NLA for quite some time. I looked into building one out of tubing and silicone couplers but the available silicone elbows don't have a tight enough radius to work in the space available. I thought about fabricating one out of tubing using the "pie cut" method to make my own tight radius bends, but I decided that much fabrication is over my head right now and the time it would take me to learn it would mean the 810 would be out of action for too long. So, here's what I did; I bought this thing: http://www.siliconeintakes.com/holset-turbocharger/-p-500.html It's for adding a vacuum port, gauge fitting, blow off valve, etc to your custom silicone intake plumbing. Here's what I did with it: I cut off the damaged port on the original duct, and enlarged the hole in the tube. I didn't use the thick rubber gasket that came in the kit because it was kind of stiff and I felt it would have required a lot of clamping force to seal. I cut some thinner, softer gaskets from an old bicycle tube and used one on the inside and one on the outside of the fitting. You can see both here. Then I bought a 1/2 NPT 90 degree fitting. I really needed one that was a 5/8 hose barb on the other side, but nobody in town had one and I was too impatient to order one. So, I made this rig so I could chuck it up in my cordless drill. Then I made it spin really fast and removed the threads with a coarse file. At this point, I was really wishing I had a lathe... So now it looks like this. Here's the assembled port system. Outside And inside And with the fitting installed There were still some small cracks around the hole. I remember reading this really good article http://hiperformancestore.com/Ljetronic.htm where the guy talked about sealing up cracked air ducts with a product called "Shoe Goo". I know, I was skeptical too but with a lack of other options I decided to give it a try. I think the stuff is basically rubber cement. It seems to be sealing up fine for now, I'll obviously be keeping an eye on it. Of course all the fuel hoses in the engine bay got replaced along with a new fuel filter. When I activated the fuel pump to check for leaks before starting the engine I caught a pretty good leak out back at the fuel pump. I'm sure is wasn't there before, and I know I didn't touch anything back there but whatever. It ended up being just a couple of loose hose clamps. And, I finally finished cleaning up the engine bay and I'm quite pleased with how it came out. Before: After So that's where she's at right now. I'm happy and the car is happy. On to the next project....

I'm in the market for a round headlight conversion for an 810...

'78 810 wagon, still $1300 but now added "or best offer". https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/cto/d/1978-datsun-810-runs-good/6336290024.html I kinda want it to take some parts off of but I've got nowhere to put it. Anyone else want to grab it and sell stuff to me?

I replaced all of the 194 dash lights with leds in my Monte Carlo. I don't remember the specific part number, but I got them from http://www.superbrightleds.com and I've been pretty happy with them. They have a good assortment of colors to choose from.

That's pretty cool what you did with the antenna! My 810 has one mounted in the fender but I'm thinking I'd like to remove it and I didn't know what to do about radio reception, but now I do, thanks!

That is a good idea. I'm thinking of how to do it, I would need to have everything connected to it. Extending the fuel and vacuum lines would be easy but extending the wiring would be harder. I'd want have it far enough away that it doesn't spray fuel all over the engine. I don't think it'll reach and I don't want to molest the wiring harness. I think there's a place I can send them to get inspected, I'll look into that. I suppose you're right, Mike. Not too much vacuum on the front side of the throttle. I think the industry term for this would be an "un-metered air leak".

So, here's the fuel rail all cleaned up. I've decided I want it to stay looking nice so I'm sending it out to get plated. Silver cadmium, nickel or zinc, I'm not sure yet. I think that the original finish was that iridescent gold cadmium, but I like silver better. Also, I've continued my mission to clean up the rest of the engine bay. No pics yet because I want it to be a surprise! While I was going over everything with a rag and wiping the dust & dirt off, I noticed that the air hose running from the intake elbow up to the cold start air valve was really loose. Further inspection revealed this: I'm pretty sure that a new set of injectors isn't going to make it run any better with this massive vacuum leak. I'm going to fix this and put it back together with the old injectors, I'll bet that it runs just fine. Stay tuned...

Here's a look at the dash: