rodriguezeddy

Putting in a paver patio in backyard and doing some heave hauling! For this trip we had: Half cubic yard of roadbase 300 lbs of polymeric sand

Was able to verify that all signal and brake lights are working today! Front signal lights are good now that I replaced the rusted out bulb housings and the "hazard" effect is gone and working properly. Wayno was right, since most of my lights were totally rusted over and not working this was causing some weird behavior in my dash indicator light ?

Started with front driver side signal light and it did not look good: After yanking and crushing this bulb out I am no longer getting the "hazard" effect from dash indicator light. Now it lights up properly for right signal and stays on solid for left. All my lights are rusted over like this so like Wayno said I'll need to get my lights/bulbs front and back working first to really see where I am. Going to look to see if I can find bulb socket replacements.

After taking it out and some cleaning: Horn Yep all signs point to a housing that I am missing which must have broken off at some point: Looks like replacing this part will be impossible so next plan is to come up with a new way to recreate its function. I've seen some switches use a leaf spring to drag onto the bottom side of steering wheel like this: Turn Signal There are three small gold contacts on the inside (hard to see but third one is behind metal piece) This is what the leads look like and I can only see two of them with one empty slot - is this supposed to be empty? I fiddled with it by moving this whole housing into all positions. I was only able to get the left signal to work and the right signal keeps engaging both for a "hazard" effect.

Correct I don't think this piece was supposed to be in there. Found some turn signal switch pics on Ebay and it looks like I am actually missing a piece or something may have broken off. Visually it looks like this part should fit into another small housing: If I put the part into the copper colored short post my horn comes on - so yep its for the horn. Unfortunately my signal and brake lights (front and rear) are not working yet but troubleshooting this is my next project. The only one that works is this one and its when I make a right turn signal and both dash lights blink. Not really sure why both dash lights are blinking either. Going to take it off, clean it up better and investigate more

My turn signal switch is not working right. Only able to drop it down to turn left. Stuck and can't get it to go up for a right hand turn signal. Took off steering wheel and this is what I found: Red arrow piece was preventing any upward movement of my turn signal. Pulled this out and spring did not look that good. What is this spring and button for? Was where it was at the proper location for it? Once I removed this piece I was able to get my turn signal up and it ended up engaging a "hazard" light.

opened up carburetor bowl and removed primary jet screw to clean out real good with compressed air. also sprayed some down the idle screw hole. as i was putting everything back together i noticed the fuel filter: my tank is new and was cleaned out and re-coated and i remember thinking back then "i think my lines should be ok i'm not going to worry about it" lol well there you go!

so just got back my refurbished Nikki and threw it on the truck last week. its idling good but when i give it gas it stalls out. here is a link to a video showing what is happening: some backstory on this. been working on my carb a few months trying to clean it out without removing. it was idling real rough and could not get it to run without choke. opened up bowl, cleaned out gunky black residue as best i could and blew out idle screw with compressed air, it was all pretty gunked up (shout out to Ted for all his help/advice). eventually i gave up and sent it in to get refurbished. now its back and it idles real good without choke and sounds great. but as soon as i give it gas it stalls. looks like its starving for gas once the throttle is opened up. i verified by firing starter fluid down the barrel while opening up throttle and rpm's went up. wondering what could be going on. assuming carb is in good working order any ideas on what could be causing this? feel like main jet or circuit could still be gummed up...

At this point its all working so I'll call it good enough for now. Like DanielC mentioned really the more important reading is the empty mark, not that big of a deal if my full level sits a bit above halfway. My hunch is that 83ohms is not quite enough (needs to be 90) to get the needle to move all the way full. I may hack away some more at it tomorrow. Thanks for insights - next up is taking my tank to get cleaned up.

Today spend the morning pulling out the sender on my new gas tank I scored ; ) Took out the 5 screws, took my time, cleaned out heads to not strip them. Then it pulled right out As I pulled it out it looked to be in good shape. No rust or grime but the arm was totally jammed and not moving. So I opened up the 4 screws to the rheostat and there was the infamous "little wire". Had to be really careful around this thing. Then proceeded to clean it out and spray some PD Blaster on it. Was going to soak in vinegar for a day but I thought might as well start with the PB. Spent a good 40 minutes cleaning this thing out and the arm started to move. I dropped two drops of oil inside around the moving hinge and this unlocked it. It now swings easily and freely! Cleaned up up inside as best could and let it air/dry out then capped it all back up. Once I had it cleaned up I did an ohm test to check out functionality This was my reading for a full tank And my reading for empty Then I checked the wires/leads on the truck and got close to 7 volts on there So went ahead and wired up the sender to do a test. Before I did I checked the gauge with the wires not connected and it pegged at Full. I think this means infinite resistance so the gauge goes all the way to Full When I wired up the sender this is what I got for empty And when I adjusted the sender arm to full this is what I got Not sure why the needle is not moving all the way to full. Wondering if it has to do with only having around 7volts at the sender? It works which is good but I'm trying to think of why 83ohms would not make the needle move all the way to full. Anyone have any ideas?

good to know thanks for info wayno. been going back and forth about trying to mod it up and make an aftermarket tank work or waiting to see if a 320 tank pops up. i also don't have have a sending unit or fill tube and i was reading in another thread about how tricky it is to get the fuel gauge to work by using something different. i think i'll try to wait it out a bit more. my plans are to fix up the brakes, take the radiator out to get patched up and in the mean time find someone who has a 320 tank + sending unit + filler tube to sell me :)

Well I found a tank on Ebay for a 520. Does any one know if a 520 tank will fit a 320? Going to reach out to seller to see if I can get dimensions...

Just figured out how to post pics here - my new truck : )

Thanks for the replies. Its an L320 and there is no tank at all or filler tube. The previous owner put in a small 4 gallon external tank that smells real strong of gas. I'd also love to find a replacement - there is plenty of room down there. If you get measurements let me know.

Just got a new 320 and it does not have a gas tank. Any ideas on where or how to find a replacement?