I can tell you on these trucks that the UCA’s are shorter than the LCA’s, such that the wheels gain negative camber when suspension compresses. Most vehicles are like this. Since the knuckle then also tips in, but the tie-rods stay the same length, toe does change. That’s why alignment needs to be fixed when the truck gets lowered.
It’s 1/8 bspt, not 1/4.
Buy this. Put original sender in end, and new sender on the side port. Then you get both an idiot light, and a gauge reading.
https://a.co/d/5y35LRZ
Buy a cheap inclinometer on Amazon, and then cut a nice flat piece of wood, etc. that only touches the bead on the rim. I’ve dialed in camber that way. Works great.
That part of the unit is assembled at the factory, and if the straight knurled nut comes loose, the thing ends up defective. It somehow holds the internal mechanicals in place. That’s exactly how the first one broke.
Been trying to finish up some last minute projects before good weather gets here. Last summer my oil pressure sender broke, so I bought a replacement, along with a remote mounting kit to get some of the strain off of the splitter at the block. 3D printed a mount and put it on the firewall. I measured 0.9 ohms from the case to the engine block, so the braided line seems to be sufficient when used as a ground. Backup plan is to use one of those 1.5” metal conduit clamps.