Jump to content

DAT410

New Members
  • Posts

    15
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Location
    Perth, Western Australia
  • Cars
    1965 Datsun P410 sedan
  • Interests
    Cars, AFL, tennis

Recent Profile Visitors

1,404 profile views

DAT410's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/14)

  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later Rare
  • One Year In Rare

Recent Badges

2

Reputation

  1. Ok so I got the starter back and have attached some photos (hope the link works!). Can anyone help identifying it, or even the solenoid? https://postimg.cc/gallery/j59tLZT Thanks
  2. Hi all Well after almost 12 months of having the starter work ok, it has now finally given up. Definitely is the solenoid that is the problem. At the moment it is at an auto electrician, but they are having trouble finding a solenoid that fits. I have searched online and whilst there is a few listed as fitting, the picture shown doesn't look like the one in mine... Even the one in above photo (thanks for posting difrangia) doesn't look similar. The end of the 'shaft' that pushes the starter cog on mine has rectangular slot in it. Does the one in the photo (and also ones on ebay) have this, and the nut end is just a cover? Once I get it back from the shop will post some pics. Thanks
  3. Thanks Draker shop I went to weren’t any help at all. If I don’t get anywhere will have to try a proper specialist I guess. Cheers
  4. Hi all Looking for some advice on replacement starter motor options, or at least starter solenoid replacement for my 410 (e1 motor, 3 speed manual)). The solenoid has gone and need to replace, but the replacement ones on ebay (based in US) don't seem to look like mine. Rather than searching for a solenoid, has anyone replaced the whole starter motor with something newer? Thanks
  5. Cheers. Outlet will be on wrong side as mentioned. Bought a rebuild kit for the time being. Cheers guys
  6. Yeah I appreciate what your saying. I have had a few rotaries and unfortunately got the bug when I was 19.. still love them and have one that ‘could’ be rebuilt and slotted into the 410. BUT I have just repainted the engine and gearbox and have the stock e1 back in the engine bay so this will be a way off (if at all). Will keep dreaming until that day..
  7. Is it sacrilege to put a Mazda 12a in a 410? Hehe. I at least have one of these and a gearbox in my garage.... I don’t really want to cut up the trans tunnel etc to fit it though.
  8. Thanks! Some good info there so will have a good read through. Haven’t worked out how to post pics on this site yet but you can look at the wix page I set up for it. Hasn’t been much put on there but gives you an idea of what the car is like. Https://andrewpharman.wixsite.com/datsunp410build Cheers
  9. Hey everyone. So have pulled out my 3 speed column shift for my 65 410 and was wondering what options there are for alternative gearboxes that bolt up to the e1? I know there is a 4 speed but what else is there? There are not many 4 speeds available here in Australia. Anything newer? Or possibly mgb? What about brake master cylinder options. Is there a later model one that will fit. From research I have done there are not many 7/8” masters available. Finally, what mods are required to fit mgb extractors? Do they fit under the stock intake of an e1? Or do you need to fit the mgb intake also? Thanks!
  10. Thanks Datzenmike I ended up taking out the gearbox and noticed that the clutch fork was installed the wrong way round - not sure if this will actually be causing the problem but it is a definite difference to how it came out originally. Will put the gearbox back in and try the process again. If it doesn’t work I may have to pull the master out and see if there is an issue internally. Cheers
  11. Hey all So I have just reinstalled the E1 engine and 3 speed column shift into the car and am having some issues with getting the clutch working properly. I have searched everywhere online to see if I can work out why it is not working, but am still stumped. Hoping you can help! So the issue is that the clutch slave doesn’t seem to return after bleeding the system. So what happens is the clutch pedal won’t actually move after it has been bled. I read online that the typical method is that a return spring will push the piston back into the slave, but when I have taken the slave off and it doesn’t seem to work that way - there is certainly a spring internally but it seems to push the cylinder out which means it would push the clutch fork and disengage the clutch. Am I totally missing how the clutch system works on the 410?? What makes the clutch slave return when there is fluid in the system? Is there a spring somewhere I have forgotten to attach? Note that when bleeding the system the clutch pedal will go all the way to the floor, but there is no fluid leaking out of the sleeve (except the bleed nipple). Does the clutch fork have anything to do with it? Please help me cause I really don’t want to drop out the gearbox again. Oh and the clutch worked fine before we removed the engine and gearbox. Cheers
  12. Yeah the rubber boot that goes over the spring.
  13. Hi all Wondering if anyone knows a suitable replacement part for the rubber spring retain boot for the 3 speed gearbox control linkage?? I found the part from car parts manual.com, see here https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/bluebird-1964-1965/power-train/remote-control-linkage- item 27 (part 34463-10600) but trying to find one seems impossible. Does anyone know of another suitable replacement that works? Is there anything from a later Datsun that works? Or other manufacturer? Or does anyone happen to have one or know where to get one? Thanks for your help! Andrew
  14. Thanks guys, appreciate the response. Do i need to swap the intake manifold only because the stock exhaust manifold supports it? The intake manifold I have has been cleaned up a bit internally and would prefer to keep the linkages etc as they are. I guess if I could get support from elsewhere then it would be ok?? Cheers
  15. Hi all New to the forum and first post. Have a '65 410 sedan that I am finally spending some time on fixing up. Car has a rebuilt e1 motor that was slightly bored out and is running a 180B 32/34 carby. I want to fit some exhaust headers (extractors) but can't seem to find many options. Car is RHD as I am in Australia so there is room to fit something. I understand (possibly wrongly) the e1 is based off British motor - BMC? So have been looking for something like that. There a few choices for MGB headers and was wondering if anyone knows if they fit the e1? If not can't anyone point me in right direction? Will post some pics once work out how to. Thanks Andrew
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.