homieelee

On my '75 had the gas gauge & temp gauge not working. You can go to your gas tank, and look on top of it, there should be 2 wires. It connects to your fuel sending unit, unplug the one with the rubber grommet on it and ground it. Check if you see the gauge needle moves, easier if someone in the cab to confirm. For me, my actual fuel sender unit was busted as the needle moved but when connected back to the tank got nothing. temp gauge for me never rose up. I found out the PO completely gutted the thermostat, this made the coolant circulate 24/7 so the engine never warmed up. Probably not your issue, but just throwing ideas out there. Majority of the time when i wrench on the datsun, it ends up being correcting PO's crap they did to it.

I had similar probs w/ my 620. I was chasing a fuel delivery problem. My truck would run great for a day or 2 then it'll bog out usually at higher speeds. I blew out my fuel lines 10-15psi, changed all the fuel hoses, replaced the filter. I dropped the tank, emptied the gas, only to what Datzenmike says there wasn't much crap at all. I was surprised how clean my tank was. So tank goes back in and truck still bogs here and there. replaced mech fuel pump STILL bogs, at this point i'm ready to go EFI. But luckily browsing ratsun more i found i didn't have a proper vent line. The previous owner ripped out all the vent lines and looped it back on the tank. My guess is that i was pulling a vaccuum on the tank every so often and the car will choke out. I've been driving the truck great for the past few weeks, by just loosening the gas cap here and there. I'm planning to install either a vent valve or vented gas cap. In short, if you clear all your fuel lines/filter and car still bogs, check your venting.

thanks to Beebani for the brackets and datzenmike for answering all my random questions. got the front disc brakes up and running, truck brakes a lot better now. few tips i learned, maybe this will help others: -don't forget to get BANJO bolts!!! M10x1.0 -remove the existing star pattern brake line clip & you can reuse the existing U clip -make sure to remove the residual check valve (only the front for me, as i left the rear drums on) -when reinstalling the wheel bearing torque to 25ft-lbs turn the hub left and right a few times, re torque again to 25ft-lbs, then back out the nut 40-70 degrees -the nut is 26mm, i had every size up to 32mm except 26mm rattle can paint job, as the brackets are just bare steel followed the guides here using the d21 hardbody 4wd calipers & pads, honda passport rotors, the brake lines were a bit too long but it works used a '79 280ZX 15/16 MC, bolted right up, didn't have to adjust the booster rod -PO had a 1/4" spacer installed, reused it as i needed it to clear the front calipers w/ the cragar wheels. but not much thread to grab ordered new studs M12x1.50RH 2", so that'll be my next project

another member said it was the Choke Heater relay, it has the round plug about 5-6 wires.

That long bolt is snugged, i'm guessing it has something to do with steering slack? Not sure why the bolt is so long. So back on topic, can anybody show me a photo of the horn relay location? Thanks

I checked both sides, just can't see it. Here's my driver and pax side, let me know if i'm just totally overlooking it. Or if someone can snap a photo and point me in the right direction. Feeling like an idiot

Can someone tell me where the horn relay is? I tested the horns themselves with power from the battery and they work. I took off the steering wheel to see if the ground wire was off, touched the metal spring to ground and nothing happens. I found a 3 wire relay next to the glove box, but it doesn't have the same Green/Black ground wire, just green/light green/ green white.

Finally got some time to work on the truck. Sourced a gauge cluster, plugged everything up and of course nothing worked other than a the lights. Speedometer cable isn't turning, so i have that ordered from Napa. What does that yellow/red wire in the second photo feed? I assume it connects to the other one. Temp/fuel gauge don't work. I traced the fuel sensor line to the tank and found it was snapped off. I shorted the yellow wire to the ground and the fuel gauge moved to full. So at least i know the actual gauge works/wire from sensor to gauge isn't corroded. Where do i connect that yellow fuel sensor line to? I found this small relay? on the far left side of the engine bay disconnected. I connected it back in and heard the relay click. With the car off it stays quite warm to the touch. is that normal? Thanks in advance

I'm sure it won't be hard to figure out my license plate, and the car is orange B). When i parked the truck the Tundra wasn't there, i got a good laugh after returning to see the difference. Whats Ted and seeker's username? Still learning who's who on the forums. Thanks. I see a few gauge clusters on ebay but not wanting to pay over $120+ for them. A craigslist guy wanted $165 just for the cluster trim piece, but that piece proves to be harder to find. I do have a big hole right now, definitely can just mount my phone in there while i drive.

Hey just wanted to introduce myself, picked up a '75 Datsun long bed from srfjay from the classifieds on the forum. Things I am planning to do: -need gauge cluster and trim (currently there isn't any in place, pretty odd feeling driving w/ no speedo) -front disc conversion (contacted mklotz70 and he's super helpful) -the throttle pedal is pretty stiff (unsure if that's how it is or if it can be adjusted) -flush all fluids/oil -Mike