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Beaver_shots

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  • Location
    Washington
  • Cars
    1986 720 4X4
  • Interests
    Drones, 3D printing, 720s :)

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  1. That's pretty funny. Honestly I didn't think it would be this big a deal to get a new title or I probably wouldn't have bought the damn truck. oh well, whats done is done. I am going to attempt to jump though their hoops and see how it goes I guess. I am a new Washington resident formerly of Oregon... it really feels like this state tries to stick it to you on the DMV stuff. I am starting to get a little stressed out about how long its been taking me to get it into a driving condition. Its not as if I need it as a daily or plan to daily it but you know it would be nice to have it road worthy. Partly my fault for not having as much time to fuss with it as I would like. Fingers crossed the transmission goes in without too much bother.... will be into a new muffler asap after that... so much fart sound blah. Compression test I guess is in order as well. I am really starting to suspect blown head gasket the more I read forums here.
  2. That is a good idea on the vin, I had thought of trying that. The last thing I want is to have it confiscated or something. that would be just my luck I take it in and get arrested and the truck gets impounded lol. I don't really know that many out of state people but that is a good idea. Washington seems like a real pain in the ass when it comes to this stuff. I might look into the Oregon rules and see if I cant get it titled there by my father who lives there or something.
  3. Yeah I was just thinking because the engine will be out it might be easier to pull the head at that time. Its my brother in law doing the work so its not going to cost me as much as it would a stranger. Still I could just do it myself after the tranny is in. As for the DMV its a bit more complicated for me because the previous owner (who I do have access too) had the title in hand but lost it before he registered it in his name. So he was in the process of getting a new title but he was not able to contact the owner before him. So he was told he had to prove he couldn't reach the old owner and he had some documentation of his attempts to contact him. That was in Oregon though so I think the rules may be different for Washington. The registration office said in this case if you cant reach the person who last had the registration in their name then its a vehicle inspection. Then It takes 3 years to get the title as it will be "in question" during that time. However I can still sell the vehicle on a bill of sale so I am only worried about the chance it is stolen haha. I am not that worried though really as the guy I bought it from was cool and I have is contact information, know where he lives, have bill of sale with his info on it ect ect. He got the truck and its was literally sitting in his drive way un-registered un-driven for 3-4 years. He only decided to sell it when he got off his butt and tried to get it running and register it but failed to fix the original problem after throwing parts at it, gave up and was like someone take this thing out of my yard.
  4. Its webber 32 electric choke. Would a rich mix cause that shaky idle as well? Edit: maybe I should have mechanic pull off head while he has the engine out and check head gasket? Could be misfire type situation from blown head gasket?
  5. So I drove it to my brother in laws shop for trans swap he said he should get around to it this week. About an hour drive, no real issues other than the transmission complaining about gears other than 1st, 3rd, and 5th. I had to charge the battery to start it at first then I stopped and got gas about 10 miles down the road it didnt quite have enough juice to start again so I had to hit it with my jumper box. Am thinking the alternator might not be working well but will need to do some more driving I think to see. I had to get a trip permit because I haven't been able to register it as title was lost. Previous owner lost it and the DMV said I need to have a vin inspection to make sure not reported stolen :/ Anyone have experience with this process in Washington state? They want me to make an appointment and bring it to Vancouver and that seems a little crazy to me. So Idling seemed rough at times and I am wondering if this could be timing issue. At lowest rpm no throttle seemed like the engine shakes left to right quite a bit. Thoughts? Also damn its loud at certain RPMs I think that muffler is completely shot. Lastly dose not want to shut off smoothly. Chugs for a second before shutting off kind of weird.
  6. What por product would you recommend for inside floor panels?
  7. Have heard of the por stuff but I dont know much about it. I was thinking bed liner because I am going to buy a can for the bed anyway. But yeah I should probably look into options for rust protection in the cab thats good advice. Right meter between the cable and the post that would work. Probably just measure for current I suppose. Good call. I have not used a welder in a lot of years but its like riding a bike probably right? haha am thinking its probably pretty hard to patch such thin metal with out burning though... guess Ill have to do some youtube research on that before I start. I know this has been talked about before but whats a bed swap look like? I think I recall reading that beds are not necessarily interchangeable between years. I defiantly need a new tail gate, are those year specific?
  8. okay got that hazard switch installed and that solved the turn signal issues and partly solved the break light issue. It seems that the alarm was hacked into the lighting system and pulling it out caused there to be very low voltage going to the break lights and marker lights. I was able re rout 12v from the alarm harness to the light system and everything works as it should now. I am a little worried about there being a drain on the battery now but I have not tested that out yet. Need to charge the battery and let it sit a day or two and see if it drains. If that happens Ill have to pull the dash and try to completely undo that aftermarket wiring that's in there. Now we are onto swapping the transmission and cleaning up the engine bay. Probably a break job as well. After that I am going to pull the seats and revamp the inside. Going to look for rust in the floor and try to repair and eliminate rust in there. Thinking about painting the floor with bed liner. Has anyone done this? Also picked up a couple doors this weekend that are in great shape. My doors have dings and the driver side has a rusted out hinge thats causing the door to sag and has damaged the front fender. I wont be putting the doors on till I am ready to strip and paint the whole truck. I am planning to try the driveway rustolium paint job thing because it cant look any worse than it does and I can see that rust is starting to be a problem. The bed is probably the worst in the rust department. Got a hole going on the drivers side wheel well and there are some holes in the bed. So going to strip it down and try my had and patching the bed. Then paint in bed liner.
  9. I found one, should be here saturday. Though my search for parts I discovered that there are at least 2 versions of the hazard switch. There is a six pin version and there is the ten pin version I have. I think it might be unique to 86's so I feel pretty lucky to have found one. It seems like a really bad design choice to make the whole lighting system dependent on this one harness imo but then again if you want all the lights to flash I guess its a way to do that. pics of two types six pin 10 pin
  10. okay got out my multi meter and put on my thinking hat. Using the wiring diagram from the manual I dived into the circuit. That 10 pin connector I was wondering about is the issue. It is supposed to be plugged into the hazard button thing that goes on top of the steering column. I don't have that button assembly it seems. Oddly this connector also ties into the break light circuit. So I can jumper wire the pins on that plug to power and activate any of the lights not working that way. Looks like I am in need of yet another part. I was thinking I could get away with looping some of the wires on that plug to get break and flashers working but I don't think that will work because the lights wont be tied into the turn signal switch properly. The only way would be to Frankenstein two harnesses and I don't want to butcher it like that. Anyone got a spare 10 pin hazard light button/harness they want to sell? I saw one on ebay last night for 100 bucks fml.
  11. Funny thing is yeah the tail lights and front side lights turned on when head lights turned on or just the marker lights turned on.... until yesterday that is. So I pulled the cluster and removed what looked like an after market alarm box thing. Now they don't turn on anymore. I guess maybe the alarm was wired to flash the marker lights if triggered. There is a harness hanging in there now that it was plugged into. I suppose I should plug it back in and see what happens. But yes before all that I had the tail lights working no break lights no turn signals. Maybe I can just jumper some pins in it if it is a break in the wiring or whatever. Dont know what pins though Guess I could get out my meter :/
  12. I see my Napa down the street has round 2 post flashers napa brand for 15 bucks a pop. I assume these would work? Also would these being missing cause the break lights not to work? I am tempted to put that stupid alarm box back in and see if the running lights come back on.
  13. okay I'm back from a short vacation and working on the truck again. So my latest goal is to get the lights working. yesterday when I started out i had head lights working and running lights working. No break or turn signal lights. There are some wires hanging that I think have to do with the turn signal lights (been looking at the manual). For the life of me I cant sort out were these are supposed to plug in? *edit* So googling around this morning I have found that these go to a couple of round flasher modules... It seems I am missing these. Are they normally just mounted under the dash or what? Can I replace these with any flasher module? Any suggestions? The steering column was open when I got the truck and I replaced the ignition switch (got my chime working at least lol). All the places for plugs are plugged on the turn signal assembly. I pulled the instrument cluster out to get a better look in the dash and I found a fairly large amount of oil sludge I guess from the speedo cable? So I cleaned as much of that up as I could including the back of the cluster that was caked with crap I am wondering if goop on these traces could cause shorts? I also pulled out some little black box that I think was some kind of aftermarket alarm system : / had a switch mounted under the dash and a couple wires going to a little red light on the dash... you know typical 90's alarm garbage. There was also an inline fuse hooked to a harness that plugged into the box that blew when I started the truck after I put everything back together and this killed the truck... wouldn't start till I replaced the fuse. Am fairly pissed at the previous owner for this wiring. Its a freaking mess back there between the alarm system and the cd player they tried to install. So anyway It starts and the dash cluster seems to be working but now the running lights arent coming on... ahhhhh feeling frustrated. The worst part is I am supposedly an electronics tech as a day job.... I feel dumb. also what is this?
  14. short video of running warm up. idle is slower after kick down throttle. http://vid195.photobucket.com/albums/z102/Beaver_shots/IMG_1235.mp4
  15. This is exactly like what I just went though with my 86. Same carb very similar issues, bad wiring to carb and in my case the carb itself had some issues. I just put on a weber last night and it runs much better. The computer controlled carb seems to be a bit touchy. Mike told me and I'm sure he is correct that having everything factory and working properly will be the most reliable configuration. Originally that is what I wanted to do, but once I started finding so much tampered with wiring I caved and just put on the after market carb.
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