SunRader78

Thanks Stoffregen. This looks like what I need. I only see one wire(+) going to this unit, but my current pump has two wires.

Thanks for the info. Since my original post, I have also been reading up on the mechanical pumps, but converting to mechanical adds another layer of modification to the fuel system. Advantages to the mechanical is that as RPMs increase, so does the rate of fuel being fed to the carb, whereas the electric pump is just a constant flow rate. Finding a different low-PSI electric pump seems like the most reliable solution. Can anyone point me to a resource for wiring a safety cut-off for the electric pump incase of an accident it will shut off and not continue to pump fuel?

I have a 1978 620 Sunrader motorhome, and am having a strong smell of gas in the cab after putting in a fresh fuel filter. Stock Carb - All the CA compliant smog equipment intact. The truck appears to have been set-up from the factory with an electric fuel pump given the OEM looking brackets for the fuel filter and pump back near gas tank. Previous owner put this pump in: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atx-e8012s With a Max PSI of 9, i'm thinking this pump is pushing way too much gas into my carbs causing the gas smell. Should I swap out the pump to a low pressure unit? If so what is a quality part i should be looking at? --or-- Would an inline Fuel Pressure Regulator set to 3 PSI do the trick? Thanks in advance.

Excellent advice - Thank you. I'll let you know how it works out.

1978 620: Noticed the passenger side mirror was shaking pretty bad at highway speeds, Went to check and it was quite loose, removed the mirror to reveal the problem: The sheet metal in the door had begun to crack outwards weakening the mirror mount. What are my options here to fix it the right way? Driver's side for reference:

I'm not looking for anything more than a couple inches of lift, for added clearance on forest roads and to get over water bars. What-ever is reasonable with the stock front torsion bars cranked up a bit and the rear to match. My goal is increased ride height and comfort/drivability on the road. It is the stock tank, so draining will be easy; I've read that flushing it with vinegar then water can be helpful. The truck runs okay, just trying to be meticulous with some easy preventive measures as it's been sitting for god knows how long.

Duplicate Post.

Here are some Photos of the Rear End Faux-Dually Set-up - and rear axle. The VIN starts with "EHL" which I think I read somewhere denotes a "heavy duty chassis". Rear leaf pack seems to have a helper spring on the top, and there is a sway-bar, from reading other threads was not standard on the '78 620. I'm definitely going to replace the rear shocks and sway-bar bushings, anything else I should consider to stabilize the handling? Any options on spring over/ axle lift vs shackle lift for the rear? Shocks? Rancho RS5000 seems to be the only one on RockAuto that advertise compatibility with lifted suspension. I had the RS5000 on a 1983 Toyota 4x4 and it rode incredibly rough (fine for me when I was 16 but now that I'm 35 I would like a little smoother ride). Thanks to all I've already learned from the Ratsun community, my first oil change was with Castrol GTX Diesel 15w40 with has the ZDDP Additave (and $10 cheaper at Napa than the normal Castrol GTX for the gallon), I also decided to add some extra ZDDP for good measure. Next on the list is Plugs, Wires, Air Filter. Previous owner put in an electric Car Quest fuel pump, the day before I picked it up. Gas Tank and fuel lines are probably dirty. Is there an efficient method for draining and cleaning the inside of the gas tank without dropping the whole tank?

What is Canby? I'm hoping it's some kind of Datsun Festival.

I'm up in Hood River, OR

Thanks for your input. The more I read up on Datsun/ Nissan axles, I think the gears must be aftermarket on that C200 axle. Here is the craigslist ad for that dually rear: https://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/pts/6101721372.html Is my 620 axle the H233?

I picked up a 1978 Datsun 620 16' Sunrader Fiberglass Motor home over the weekend and am beginning my repairs and refreshes. One weak link is the "faux dually" rear, just a very wide rim with a bead lip in the middle to mount and two tires mounted. In theory this should help support the additional weight of the camper but in effect causes additional leveraged stress on the bearings causing early failure and breaking the rear axle. http://www.autosafety.org/recall-detail/?id=91V061000 The three solutions as I see it would be to just put a normal width rim on the rear with a nice heavy load range tire $$; upgrade to a full-float true dually rear axle $$$; change nothing and keep the rear bearings serviced religiously $. As fate would have it, I just ran across a guy selling a C200 Axle with 5.24 gears out of a 1983 720 Dually chassis for $450. Will this axle be a straight bolt in project or will the spring seats need to be moved? Any issues with the 620 drive shaft mating up to the C200? Will the truck even be drivable in the real world with that 5.24 rear end? (I have 4 speed manual transmission) Thanks in advance for any insight to problem solving this.

Previous owners at some point have painted animals along the sides of the camper. Deer, Raccoon, Goose, and a Fish. Also one of the coolest factors with this rig, is that the entire rear wall will open up like a big rear hatch. Photos from the owner's manual. Enclosed porch option from 1978, long term plans include figuring out a way to sew up a similar design of my own. The Manufacturer on my Title is listed as "GARP" which I'm assuming is the Gardener Pacific Corp. Carpet everywhere. Time to tear it out! Floor feels fairly solid expect for an area right near the table mount, so I may end up gutting more of the camper interior than intended. Fortunately did not find any moisture or mold as I was stripping the first layers away, just a lot of sand, dirt, and spiders.

We ran into an old buddy from AK at a coffee shop in Bend on our way back from picking the truck up. Small World! Mismatched hood, pretty poor rattle can job of flat white. Also the passenger side door mirror began looking like it was going to rip off at 60 mph. When I checked it, it was very loose due to the sheet metal spiderweb cracking outward from the forward most mounting hole. Not sure if this is an issue with old thin sheet metal or if rust had weakened the metal. The original carpet is in pretty nice shape, also has cool Datsun floor mats. I'm thinking of ripping out the carpet and installing vinyl. Radio does not function, tuning nob will not change the channel.

Hello Just wanted to post up an introduction. I just got home from picking up a 1978 Datsun 620 with a Sunrader camper on the back. 73,800 original miles, and yards of original 70 shag carpet throughout. My first order of business is tearing out all the carpet and then addressing the mechanicals and deferred maintenance. Based on the way it drove the 300 miles back to my house I'm thinking it will definitely need all new bushings in the front ( ball joints two? ) and shocks all around and probably new bearings in the rear axle. Speedo reads 5 miles an hour over. Is there any easy fix for this? Four speed manual transmission shifts smooth as butter actually do 65 on the freeway although this was quite scary with the loose feeling front end was worn out bushings. Rust is minimal some spots peeking through on the windshield frame and A-pillar but Rust is like a cancer so there's probably more hiding where I can't see. She spent life in eastern Oregon which is a pretty dry climate and by the condition of the fiberglass and per sellers report it was also housed in a pole barn away from the sun and rain. I'm not sure how to post pictures from my phone but I'll try to take some shots of the 620 Interestingly it's missing the toolkit and Jack with associated lug wrench; so I'll need to source those ASAP. Once I get a sense of needed parts im sure you will be see my "want to buy" posts.