ColdSaus

Will the fenders need to be rolled in response to the track width?

is any fab work required for the l20b? as far as I know, it seems like the b210 automatic driveshaft would work; with or without fabrication, but if it's required I might have to biuld up an a15.

so should I build a separate engine? an engine swap would require more adaptation, but a second engine will bolt right in.

Would making a head be a good substitute for a supercharger? I never left something like an engine swap of the table, but it feels like paying for another clean slate. I'll eventually catch "the hp bug" and start messing with it.

well shoot. I guess i'll have to wait until later on in my ownership to do something like that. Is there any suggestion for an alternative? do I even need that much power in a B210? (maybe just small stuff like a new carb, cam, exhaust, etc.)

Hey Ratsun, Iv'e done a bit of research on suspension swaps and upgrades for the b210, and I have a basic idea for a little canyon carver squared away. The next obstacle to tackle is power, and the a14 surely doesn't make it easy. My original hp goal for a b210 was 200 hp to the wheels; if not the crank. upon further inspection, it seems as if the only a14s making 200 horses have ported heads, forged internals, EFI, etc and are basically race engines. I wanted to ultimately supercharge the a14 but it seemed that there would be no real way to do it reliably. I've looked into at least forged pistons as well as connecting rods, and with this summer coming up, iv'e gotten an opportunity to gain the experience to possibly install them myself; along with a supercharger. the problem is, I want to maintain reliability (somewhat) and still make power. it sounds contradictory, but i have an idea that might make it possble. 1. The supercharger on my search for a supercharger capable of boost for smaller engines, i came across a topic based on the possibility of the amr500. This supercharger made power that wouldn't destroy the a14, but the engine would be constantly under boost. Not good for reliability. However, in the same article, another ratsun member mentioned a different supercharger; the sc14. the notable difference in the sc14 was a little wire leading from the supercharger. After further reading, it seems to be able to toggle the supercharger on and off, which means that it's possible to drive the car with or without forced induction. which means that the engine isn't always under boost, which theoretically means reliability and power when when the time is right for either. 2. The tune & methanol injection i realized that if the car was suddenly supercharged, it would possibly need a tune up in response to the loads of new air being introduced into the engine. the only problem is that for my application, if I tuned in response to the supercharger, the engine would need more fuel; possibly making the car run rich while not under boost. if i tuned for reliability (in response to the new carb setup) the car would possibly run lean under boost. the solution seems to be alcohol/methanol injection after the carb and supercharger; usually used to cool down air coming into the engine. the methanol would cool the air like an intercooler, and be burned in the process of combustion. and since pre 1976 cars are not smogged in California, it would seem legal. The most important part of this (for my application) is the fact that the alcohol is burned and used like fuel; meaning the air/fuel ratio is affected. If a methanol injection is ran while the car is under boost, that could possibly affect the air/fuel ratio to where the car would run at a desired level; that level being slightly rich. If the methanol is not injected while the car isn't under boost, similar to the supercharger, the car could be tuned for economy while the supercharger creates boost directly proportionate to the effect of methanol injection on the air/fuel ratio. Could something like this work?

I originally wanted to convert the rear leaf spring suspension to up the handling. I'm unsure if the stock leaf springs would be adequate for spirited driving. Also, things like rust could have also affected the suspensions overall performance; something I wouldn't have to worry about with a fresh pair of coilovers. if the coilover idea is unstable as well as expensive, is there an alternative leaf spring suspension that would do a better job at taking a beginner's performance car through corners? Looking at the overall cheapness of lowering blocks, the negatively remind me of cheap eBay miata coilovers (or something of that nature) and I'm unsure if that kind of suspension modification would be adequate.

Hey Ratsun, Iv'e been researching the suspension modifications and assemblies for a datsun b210, and how the rear suspension is set up, it seems like the area where the rear shocks are mounted can house a full coilover assembly. If some of the leaf springs were removed, would the leaf spring assembly still have the stability to keep the rear axle in place? I don't have a B for a reference, so correct me if i'm wrong; but if the leaf springs can't maintain stability, could a brace be used in place of the leaf springs? I'm thinking of a brace similar in design to a shock, but can easily be collapsed and rotates at the point where the axle meets the leaf as well as the point where the end of the leaf spring connects. As always, thanks for the help.

I'm working in my uncle's garage during the summer

Hey Ratsun, I'm doing research on a 1970s B210 as a first car and I'm in the market for a cheap and reliable way to own one. what would like to have is a car capable of spurited driving on a backroad once and a while (that is NOT a miata) but still reliable enough to get me to and from school. I've done a bit of research on the KA as well as the L20B,and they're both around my preferred power range. but I'm not sure which one would be best for my application. I've heard good things from both when it comes to torque and low rpm power. will the KA produce an understeer because of its weight? if so, would the L20 be a better option? I've also seen rotary swaps on these cars, but I'm not sure if a rotary would be a good first engine to introduce me to owning a car. Thanks for the help.

Are there any true instructions for it? I want to know before I start buying stuff.