2LittleTime

Sorry guys...... I've been out of pocket for a bit. I have none of the original center caps but I have actually seen them in person on another truck. Ebay has like two listings with original caps when I search. They only have one cap each. I guess I was hoping someone knew if a cap from another Datsun model would fit. I've given up trying to stay stock for now. That being said it is insane trying to find out how manufacturers actually apply their dimensions to aftermarket caps. I talked to the guy at Summit and he is actually going to have one of the stock pickers go out and measure some caps to see if he can find me one that fits. Highly recommend Summit for cust. service. Those guys have ways treated me right.

I have stock steel wheels on a 1981 720 King Cab. Absolutely no luck finding a center cap that will fit this truck. Nothing offered on Ebay that actually fits. What they do have is mislabeled for a 720 and are the larger caps for the D21s. The big problem is finding out how aftermarket center caps are measured. Does anyone know if they are designated by the actual hole size in the rim they fit in or through? Has anyone had any luck finding a source for these caps? Will caps from another Datsun model cross over? Thanks for any advice.

The junk is installed. Initial - 5 degrees at 650 rpm Mech. -starts at 750 rpm -all in for an additional 12 degrees at 2275 rpm for 17 total Vac can -adds 20 at idle -adds 10 at 12 in vac -adds 3 at 7 in vac Runs well. Temp stays low in op range. Ive got the NOX smell now at idle. May see about putting a stop collar in to kill about 5 degrees off that vac can.

The junk is installed. Initial - 5 degrees at 650 rpm Mech. -starts at 750 rpm -all in for an additional 12 degrees at 2275 rpm for 17 total Vac can -adds 20 at idle -adds 10 at 12 in vac -adds 3 at 7 in vac Runs well. Temp stays low in op range. Ive got the NOX smell now at idle. May see about putting a stop collar in to kill about 5 degrees off that vac can.

If all else fails to resolve your issue make sure you check your flexible fuel lines. You just disturbed a lot of them changing the filter and working on the carb. I've seen the interior of older fuel lines collapse and cause partial restrictions. Same thing that happens with flexible brake hoses. Its a long shot but if nothing else pans out to be the problem check it out. When the filter clogged you may have collapsed one of the suction lines and compromised it internally. I've chased that ghost before.

Well so much for my OEM distributor. Nissan showed the thing in stock online and then cancelled the order as the part was no longer available. I'll start hitting up the junkyards tomorrow. The Cardone came today. Seems mechanically sound. The air gap was way out of spec so I set that right. I'll get it on and throw the tach and vacuume guage on it. See where it curves out on the mechanical and then how the can acts. I've got the SM so if it is close to what you said I will be happy for now if it gets me in and out of the driveway. Throw the spare module in the glove box. One thing I noticed different is the drive end on the one that came out has a plastic collar with a spring steel hoop around the end and the one I just recieved has a solid steel one. Any idea if this makes a difference? I was going to install it then crank the engine over by hand and pull it back out to check for any scoring or interference marks before I started it. Or I can just change the collar out. They are both slot drive not splined.

Well so much for my OEM distributor. Nissan showed the thing in stock online and then cancelled the order as the part was no longer available. I'll start hitting up the junkyards tomorrow. The Cardone came today. Seems mechanically sound. The air gap was way out of spec so I set that right. I'll get it on and throw the tach and vacuume guage on it. See where it curves out on the mechanical and then how the can acts. I've got the SM for can specs. If mechanical adv. is close to what you said I will be happy for now if it gets me in and out of the driveway. Throw the spare module in the glove box. One thing I noticed different is the drive end on the one that came out has a plastic collar with a spring steel hoop around the end and the one I just recieved has a solid steel one. Any idea if this makes a difference? I was going to install it then crank the engine over by hand and pull it back out to check for any scoring or interference marks before I started it. Or I can just change the collar out. They are both slot drive not splined.

Just ordered a factory new DN480-14. Nissan still had one. I got really nervous about ending up with a 3500 pound paperweight somewhere down the road. What I will probably do is send you the original one I took off the truck and have you go through it. I figured a module, cap and rotor are 200 bucks from Rockauto so $200 more for a brand new dizzy from Nissan wasn't a bad deal.

I'll fill out an advance curve sheet on your website and have you see what we can do. Thanks for the quick reply. I have the original Hitachi as it came from the factory. Bushings and end play are OK so I may scavenge the breaker plate and vac can off the Cardone for now just to get back on the road. The plastic shim sandwiched in the breaker plate got brittle, disentigrated and locked up all the advance. It actually didn't run terrible the few miles I've it driven around town at a constant 5 degrees. A little doggy off the line but not terrible.

1981 King Cab, z22, 2wd, manual trans., Weber, emissions deleted Got around to the distributor today...... trash. This thing must have been running at exactly five degrees BTC throughout the entire rpm range for years. I looked at the typical sources like Rockauto and Nissan Parts for the vac can, breaker plate, mech. advance springs etc. No luck on those for the DN480-14 distributor. It seems the Cardone 31-622 reman. distributor is the only offering out there. NAPA is just throwing their part number on the same distributor and charging an extra 20 bucks. I went ahead and ordered one of those from Rockauto to get me back up and running. I'm concerned about this thing coming with the right springs and vac can on it. Easy enough to figure out how it is curved when I get it installed and get a timing light on it. I can see if it is even close to what the service manual says it should be. I'm also concerned about the quality....... I know they ain't replacing all the goodies in there for 90 bucks and some change. I would like to repair the one I removed and "put it on the shelf". To my point. Any one have a source for new parts or know if there are any aftermarket new distributors available for the z22 motor. As always thanks for the help.

Thanks Mike. I have the FSM and for some reason never bothered to look it up there. I'm 'bout 99% convinced I can cut an inch or so off a tubing wrench and get at it. The others were still at factory torque and came off without a struggle. 36 years and 294,000 miles...... brake hoses are the last on my list of things to do before I feel comfortable driving this thing around.

Beg, borrow or buy a quality long open end wrench. 3lb hand sledge. Give it some sharp raps with the hammer in the loose direction then a few in the tight direction. Repeat. Be patient and you will be rewarded. You don't need to hit it like you are driving a railroad spike. Just nice solid in line impacts on the wrench. (Jack stands, safety glasses and gloves)

Yes sir Mike, thats the one. I'm about to start on that again today. I'll get some pics when I get it jacked up and the wheels back off.

I can not access the flare nut on the frame side of the rear brake line. Here's where I've been on this: - Jacked up, on stands, rear wheels removed - Pass. side axle bumper removed - tubing wrench will grip but no clearance to turn from any position - tubing crows foot will grip but no clearance for ratchet, swivel, extension of any combination or size drive Is there some secret trick to this because it is sure looking like the options are drop the fuel tank, take out the bed bolts and jack that up or cut a window in a box end and put fire to the handle and bend up a custom wrench. If anyone has run in to this I could use some advice. Thanks

Thanks, guys. Great forum. Got answers to this question now and just browsing through has clarified a few other things. I'll get some pictures on here when I get a chance. Thanks again.