Turbosauce74

Do not "weld extensions" to your cage especially the main hoop 🙄. I don't think anyone commenting has an idea how to build a certified cage cause for one your main hoop must be one piece. It's not even hard to do and it should follow the shape of the cab and be stitch welded to the cab structure where possible. And no a it does not put you at a greater risk in an accident unless you build a garbage cage. If you think a 40 year old tin can is safer without a cage you're delusional. Like I said before, hire the right person because safety is worth every penny.

Cage is on the list for me, these trucks are tin cans, with a capable top speed of 180mph I don't trust this thing one bit.It's not hard to fit a decent tight fitting cage in these trucks if you're a good fabricator, and even easier if you have a king cab. 1.5" 1.20 or even 0.95 DOM tubing would be lots and fit nice. Good fitting hoop, halo and a pillar bars would save you in a rollover. The only people afraid of hitting their heads usually have cages with massive gaps. Hire a proper builder and do it right.

Has anyone ran the all aluminum ebay radiator in a 620 with decent power? I know it's better than my stock steel one which won't keep up with the sr20 I built. There's a rad on summit Number:SGT-CU638 that looks like a lot higher quality but nearly double the price. Any opinions welcome.

Where do you see that?

Now I just need to find one I can order, doesn't show up on many pages.

I'm assuming in my chaotic fashion I misplaced this bearing that goes on the bottom of the steering shaft, and now I can't seem to find one anywhere. Is anyone able to help me out? https://imgur.com/a/9NuLPiJ

Fitting the trans is easy, I just modified the stock trans crossmember, took me maybe 2-3 hours to get it straight and the engine angled properly.

Ordered everything I needed. Ended up going all an lines and fittings since it looks a lot nicer. Took a while to find the proper fittings tho, I'll add pics when it's done

I have a snap on flaring and bending tool, I just want to make sure I buy all the proper fittings. Can't seem to find them all anywhere.

All great examples of over complicated solutions to a very simple problem. And it's always the "I'm an engineer", cause when you mention a way to do it easier they give you that look of "wow, I wasted a lot of time" A throttle body on a diesel is for the emmisions, not to actually control throttle. It's to allow the egr system to pull exhaust gasses into the intake. It's common to remove the egr and that throttle body for better flow. If you have to keep the throttle body for something like a tps, then you remove the butterfly.

This post is complete bs. -The guy was definitely lying to you, cause none of that would even work - no one puts a carburetor in a "box" - 2 diesels don't have throttle bodies, diesels don't even generate vacuum, diesels don't even aspirate their fuel. All this has been figured out YEARS ago, with something simple called a boost reference fuel pressure regulator. It's simple, you tune your engine at idle to a set boost pressure, and then for every psi of boost you gain 1 psi of fuel pressure. So say in a carb set up you run 12-15psi of fuel pressure n/a. But now you want to run 14psi of boost, you need a fuel pump capable of 26-29 psi at the proper flow. Efi is no different.

Most recent picture, turbo is top mounted, flange for tial bov pre-intercooler, air-water intercooler rated for 600hp, custom aluminum boost tubes, and brake booster deleted.

Finally got my engine in the truck after 5.5 months of waiting to get it back. Motor was full machined, bored, and blue printed. -CP Pistons 9:1 -Eagle rods -New water and oil pump - Brian crower 272 cams, upgraded valves and springs. -Freddy manifold -Radium Engineering fuel rail -Injector Dynamics 1050cc injectors - cx racing top mount manifold and down pipe - 2871r turbo (for now)

Old update of finished 4 link, coils, and crossmember

I'm 90% of the way thru a killer Sr swap. Plan for everything to cost more and take a lot more time. You would think being a truck you will have all sorts of room, wrong way less room than the car it came from. Make sure you know it runs, I didn't and ended up with a motor that was almost toasted. Also apparently the ka swap is easier than the sr. I should add updates.... But I hate adding pics.