weldingrod

Actually, I changed a fan/clutch/pump recently and it was also whining. Turns out the clutch hub was faulty from new and didn't work correctly, the fan started spinning as soon as the truck started. I have it installed, keeps the temp normal so I'm just going to live with it.

My carb is hooped, leaks among other things but I find if I turn ignition on (I hear the pump clicking) for a minute or so, then pump the gas a couple of times, it starts right up. sounds like a carb problem but this will hopefully solve your day to day issues until you can deal with it.

I think you are right, Mike, v belt. After a new alternator belt install, several weeks later I could hear a slipping belt when I started up. I always hit my lights right after starting and when I turned the lights of the squealing stopped. Instant diagnosis. Nice the D21 has an adjustor on each belt. I know the earlier ones use the same block so my question is this: are the tapped holes already in place to put individual belt tensioners on, say, a 1984 720?

I just boxed in my bumper and welded one in. Any competent welder should be able to do the same for you.

Has anyone ever tried a two barrel Holly carb?

I know my carb needs changing because it is leaking a little gas but then I see others getting 15-18 mpg. Don't know if my calculations are off (I hope not) but I come up with around 23 mpg. Not sure if I am calculating correctly.

The failure in the column locking mechanism may also be causing the ignition lock feature to not work.

You don't need those screws. Any metric machine thread screws the right length will do, probably pennies at a hardware store. The locking system in my 84 tilt column is starting to fail, but I am guessing wear someplace in the lock lever mechanism. I am a welder so might be an easy fix for me.

You can always to get a shop to do a welding repair on the original manifold, cheaper than buying either.

Damn! Didn't know you were going to get all mathematical on me but as long as the answer is something I can live with then I am happy- thank you very much. Deck plate will sit on the existing box pedestals and the tank will sit in the deck, attached by the original bolts to the deck so at least half the tank will be below the deck level so I guess that will give me an extra margin. Pictures will be forthcoming when I start the project, have to change right front axle on my 84 daily driver first then find the coolant leak on the 91 D21 then the project will commence.

OK. Was just worried that part of the tank would be higher than the carb and might supply enough pressure when full to be more than carb inlet valve would handle. could always install a shut off valve, I guess.

Kingcab. Someone has already done a redneck welding shortening of the box. Not cutting the springs, replacing with a shorter set, 5leaf stack from a trailer.

Have an 85 720 4x4 I am going to make into a bush buggy, remove the box, install a deck, install shorter springs and cut about 3 feet off the frame. The fuel tank will be installed in the deck; just wondering if there would be any potential problems with the fuel tank relocation, eg syphoning, etc.

Did you test the thermostat before installing? I got caught that way once, brand new out of the box thermostat was faulty. Test it by putting it in a pot of water on the stove and heating it up. Should open before the water starts boiling. If you have a wine making thermometer you can check the temperature of the water when it starts to open.