virginwidow

Thanks for allowing me to post the advert. Somehow or other, it made TWO, not one posting. Could admin please correct, I can't figure out how to remove the 2nd one

THANK YOU... Sadly, they've gotten urban-fussy here. In spite of cows grazing across road. Tarp or any "low budget" means of eye wash won't fly. Got to be within a built to code "Auxilliary Structure". Only reason selling is to fund repairs to last running truck I got (D21)

This is *NOT* my idea. A 'special' neighbor invoked a "County Code Violation", e.g. inoperable vehicles. We're in East TN, Apparently never enforced unless "reported". I found the county can SIEZE the trucks... if I'm "Too Slow getting them scrapped". Have spare parts as well, couple GOOD (with glass) 620 doors, an L20B engine (inside house) ... MIGHT be able to get the '77 (Camo) truck running, it's a very nice build (crane cam, holley carb, headers etc) L20B. Broken wrist, dunno if I can afford the work. Certain the dually I can't afford to make it go. ANY ideas // help welcome. Sincere Thanks vw

Thanks So much -- I think I can get to to the basics you've outlined without pulling the stock carb -- the rag suggestion is somewhat re-assuring, dad taught me that when I was a little girl whenever and however possible get a drop cloth under your work "the tiniest parts are the hardest ones to replace"... Guys at work just think I'm a wierd old woman. I realllllly don't want to pull it, not lazy -- the trouble is, putting it back on -- how could I do that, with a perfectly good Holley on the other truck? Your description on the return fuel lines interests me -- reflects what I've read in the manual. And it makes logical sense. This begs the question: When I replaced a hoplessly broken hitachi (on my '78) with a Weber, no return line, ran great even in hot weather. There's no return on the Holley installation. Runs great -- if I had fuel vaporizing due to heat would there not be a strong gasoline odor? We never have return lines on S&S or Mikuni's (motorcycles) nor on any aviation carb I've met. I am not saying you're wrong -- what I'm getting at is every other 'Normal' carb I've dealt with, fuel doesn't boil. They're designed with the possibility in mind, to NOT BOIL. I'm now wondering -- if the Hitachi carb can boil the gas, the possibility so great an entire second fuel rail and all that (Follow the Money, manufacture, changes to assembly line, special parts) Were these Hitachi/Late stock carbs DESIGNED to boil the fuel? My son keeps saying "Mom, it's an electronicly controlled carb" -- there are 4 wires running up underneath on the coil side, what do they do? They look like they were cooked some time ago. Do the crispy wires do anything that could cut the fuel? Someone here (in TN) said some of those old carbs had that "feature" I'll put up some pics of the Holley install before I do anything rash. Were there not what appear to be significant differences in the way the throttle linkage goes, I'd have already changed it out THANKS vw

What racerx sed. When I was a kid I had a job (for a minnit) where they prepared these things for the show room -- the camper was already on, but other little things had to be done, everything checked out etc. They didn't pay squat, so I only helped prep 4 of them. I don't think ball joints happened until the '79 model, but others here know lots more than me

NOBODY around here has a clue. It's a '79 620, sadly from California (I will never buy anything from there again) with the stock carb and all the other foo-tard crap (a whole bunch of vacuum lines and hozes and relays and sabotage) What it does: 1. There is fresh gas in tank 2. The Fuel pump runs. 3. Filters fresh, lines clear. 4. The fuel squirts eagerly from the line, taken loose as close as I can get to the Un-Carb. 5. The truck starts for 2 seconds on ether, electric is fine. 6. Had my kid keep his hand on the pump, while Fail-Starting -- the pump IS NOT CUTTING OFF (it's not a fuel PUMP relay) So --- can someone please explain to me how the FUEL is NOT getting to bowl? I know it has to do with California and 1979 (everything built after 1972 is fooobar... ) I want to know HOW to get the damn gas TO the carb (ie, go around whatever SABOTAGE is stopping it)... The truck was running okay-ish before what I first thought was a vapor lock -- then I realized no -- vapor lock wont start at all. It was starting WITHOUT ether, and then shutting down within seconds. meaning, the DEMONIC force Within allowed it to start, then "realized its error" and cut the fuel. Now it wont let the fuel through at all. yes I have a Holley 240 I can pull off the green truck -- but I've looked at the way the throttle cable runs not sure I'll be able to hook it up (the holley is coming off a '76) and also there is (WTF is THAT crap for???) a fuel line running from engine back to tank -- I mean -- ??? WHY. If the carb is jetted adjusted right NOTHING is left over? I don't want to go making matters worse, not knowing what OTHER booby traps are set with the intent of preventing a rational owner from removing the STUPID from their truck. I'd love to just gut this nice body (I bought it for lack of rust) and stuff the good parts off the '76 in it, nicely like everyone else here does. I just dont have that kinda coin. ANY clues? WTF is stuck in the gas line (there is less than 16" that is full of U turns between the point I checked and the bowl) , or HOW do I get the gas INSIDE of the carb? Or for real, yank the Hitachi off and be done? THANKS vw

THANK YOU!! Actually, I did get some fotos of the springs and sway bar. There are air shocks. Right now the infernal '79 is in the yard, AGAIn for over a week -- it's probably lost me what little job I had :-( I'll try to find the fotos -- I don't think these are stock axle, from what I can see through the outer wheel it looks more like ... If it ever runs again I'll get it to a garage where I can get it up safely and look. I can haz no garage :-(

That is a Beech E-18, I'm much better at working on airplanes (and motorcycles) than I am on trucks. There is a DC-3 I work on sometimes as well. Thing with motorcycles and airplanes, both of them will kill you if "Biddy Rig" something very much -- Trucks much more forgiving and former owners take liberties with that. The Kamo-Kazi (green truck) is the reason I originally signed up here. Poor kamo-kazi truck is dying of cancer, but hoo boy does it scoot. It has a VERY sexy engine (and fortunately former owner is respectable wrench and reachable by phone) that I need to tear down -- it's just time. The best pedigree I can give on the GOOD engine is he put a Crane Cam in it, special valves & chevy springs, modest header and holley carb. Hopefully can go see him before diving into it and get the exact details what he's got in there if hecan remember -- otherwise will have to rely on you folks! All I can tell you is I think It makes about 140hp, it's cammed up enough to where it won't idle (I'm use to that from my bikes) but when she honks makes ricer boys look silly. I really do NOT want to mess up that engine. For now I have to 'Daily' black truck, but my aim is to make it the "Avatar" for green truck's lovely innards. Former owner (one owner truck) builds Z's and his work shows it, but there are places where the frame itself is rusted through. If I can find a way to get 15" wheels on that dually set up I may keep it. Never drove one before this truck, but the extra rubber back there makes for very adhesive cornering. I will provide better pictures of the tank set up when I can. I've always liked the idea of extra fuel. The black truck also has fully functional factory air, which I have no use for. However I *DO* have a use for an air compressor, so I'm thinking I'll see if there's a way I can drive a compressor off that pulley. The blue truck is my first one, it's (almost) sound except for the doors and Fred Flintstone Floor Board. Makes it kind of like riding a dresser with a big fairing when it rains. There will be spare parts :-) I have a photo bucket account -- BUT -- I cannot use it. It makes so much spam I have it routed to my spam bucket. The site is so riddled with X-site mess and scripts and adds my firewall and security filters basicly won't allow it to work. Is Photo bucket a rule? I do have flicker, it's not so bad, as will as use Lut.im, which is CLEAN AS A WHISTLE -- no ads, no muss, no fuss. I don't have a seperate computer right now. I imagine when you all first started the (wonderful) albums on photo-bucket the site was much more usable. Please advise THANK YOU FOR YOUR REPLY PS I'll pm you my flicker, have lots of pictures of the planes at work

I'm finally done lurking... after years of using your wonderful information... I suppose it's about time, being as now there's 3 620 projects. I found this (*&^#%$# darn) thing for only $1500. The ONLY rust I could find was that infernal crease where the floor of the bed meets the verical right behind the cab. There is not one single crack on the dash. My other 2 620's are plagued with cancer (my dear Kamo-kazi truck having it the worst) and when I saw all that solid metal I just got stupid and drained my savings. Does anyone know what I've got here? The young guy I got it from said the dual wheels were "Stock" which I seriously doubted. I can find no reference of a "Heavy Duty" 620 ... (These pics are awful) This one looks to be able to tote a full ton, instead of the 1200+ they're normally rated for. The built up suspension in the back looks like it couldn't have been cheap. Dual Wheels -- havent had the hub apart (still fighting with the %^$ WIRES) how to tell where they came from? In adition to the built up springs and dual wheels, it also has DUAL TANKS. If it isn't factory, HOW did an exact twin on the normal, right hand tank "Sprout" on the left side of the drive shaft? All the mountings and fitments are identical to the RH tank, there's a cable @ the center of the floor board which switches them. I've not investigated if it's functional, and havent had a chance to get it up on a lift to see what manner of diverter exists. In the 6 weeks I've had it, it's run for 2, when the "Poltergeist" appeared in the form of a suddenly useless starter button. I knew there were going to be some electric problems when I found 4 blown fuses in the floor board... I just didn't expect THIS... I'd rewired the brake lights and turn signals on my Blue Truck -- perplexing, but it was do-able. Not so lucky on this one. I suspect the engine was swapped, as there's a mechanical fuel pump on the head. The other 2 don't have that. The ID plate inside the engine bay no longer shows the original engine #. The wiring behind the dash is a mEss. I'm not going to pull it, taking it to the shop for that... Finally resorted to biddy rigging a temporary ignition toggle, at least it moves. No lights but moving LOL... Has anyone on here heard of a "Heavy Duty" 620? The truck seems to have been built with a purpose in mind. The springs and dual tanks ?? Any clues? Could it have been ordered that way? Before I go doing anything do it, might be a good idea to learn whether I'd be ruining it. My older trucks haven't been such a Butt-Hurt!! This is my other 2..,