Letsurf

They are saying that the 38 would be better for the large plenum that the z24i has. But my problems didn't start until I switched from the 32/36 to the 38 so either I have a bad carb or they are wrong. I tried every jetting configuration feasibly possible and it still has issues when doing rolling stops and then taking off.

I have a header for it but would just need to have a new tailpipe run. Would the header solve the issue with it stalling? I'm getting ready to send this 38 back to weber and they said they will accept the return but are absolutely certain that the 38 is the best for the z24i intake. I'm so confused...

What do you mean when you say noticeable change?

Took the truck to a local carburetor guy. All he does is rebuild carbs (for 35 years now). He looked it over and took it for a spin and said that there wasn't anything wrong except that the carb is too big for the engine. He said that he could solve the issue of it stalling upon acceleration by drilling out the accelerator pumps so it would get more fuel. I'm thinking the large plenum and large carb is creating a low velocity situation when I first open the throttle and that is where the problem lies. Sounds like I need to go back to the 32/36 or add a header and cam. :rolleyes:

I checked all the possible connections and also took the 1 way valve that goes to the break booster and checked it. Replaced the PCV valve. Is it possible the carb is faulty? I mean if the butterflies are closed is there another route air could flow?

I checked the float level and it was exactly 18mm as it should be. Also the needle came out and the little ball bearing moved freely. Not sure how to check the gas level with the top off. I also checked for vacuum leaks and couldn't find any. Maybe it's a faulty pcv valve or something letting air in?

Something else to note. I have the idle speed screw completely out and the butterflies are closed and sealed and the engine still runs. How is that possible?

this is a brand new carb and I have tried every jetting variation I can find with no fix. Maybe it's just a faulty carb. I keep getting conflicting answers. Some say this carb is perfect for that truck and have even used it on 1.6L Suzuki Samurai's and 1,300 cc minicoopers. Others are saying it's way too much lol. I have 21 in hg vacuum at the intake manifold, new coils, holy red top fuel pump with regulator at 3lb, the engine is rebuilt and bored .50.

I guess a question to ask is would the 38 amplify the issue. The 32/36 did not have that issue so is it possible the 38 made the issue with the large plenum and velocity worse.

I think this could be a velocity issue due to the large plenum on the intake. Is that possible? If so would putting the original intake instead of the z24i intake solve the issue?

So would I be better off just going back to the 32/36 then?

Yes it does but I don't think it can be changed.

There has always been a power issue with the truck but I think it was due to me turning the speed screw on the 32/36 too far in. I tested the vacuum advance and at 2100 rpm it was exactly 14.5 degrees which is where I think it should be. I have tried 8* btdc and 10* btdc which is what weber recommends. I have brand new coils, new plug wires, plugs, new distributor, all new wiring and connectors for the ignition setup...

I called weber and they said that the 38-dges would be better because the large plenum on the z24i intake caused too much loss in velocity with the 32/36. I installed the 38-dges and it has a lot more power but it bogs out when I accelerate too fast. Also when I drive down the street then coast down to a stop sign and do a rolling stop and hit the gas it will almost die and then shoot forward with power. When I cycle the throttle with the 38-dges it has WAY more response like a little race truck now compared to how it was before. Just need to get this cutting out thing resolved. I have literally tried jetting it from idle jets 40-60 and main jets from 135 - 160 and still can't get it to stop cutting out when accelerating too fast. Another thing to note is that on the 38-dges you can't turn the speed screw past 1/2 turn or it will expose the enriching ports. Well I can turn the screw completely out and the flaps at the bottom of the carb are completely closed and the truck still idles. It shouldn't run at all with those flaps closed right?

I put on the 38-dges and it has a lot more power now but it's bogging when I hit the accelerator too fast. Also, when I go down the street then do a rolling stop and take off it will almost die then shoot forward with power. I tried jetting from 135 all the way to 160 mains and all different idle speeds and can't get it to stop this cutting out when accelerating too fast.