Yousef

Hi friends, I'm looking to install a killswitch on my 1974 620 to prevent ppl from stealing my truck. Any recommendations of a particular killswitch and method that works well for these trucks? Cheers! Yousef

Thanks everyone! Not sure what I'm gonna do yet, but leaning towards bypassing

I wonder if I can use an aftermarket one from the autoparts store...another idea is to bypass the valve for now, but that would mean constant heat.

Any similar valves from other Datsuns?

It seems to be actually coming from the heater cock control valve...I see that it is part number 27017-B5000. But it looks like this part is discontinued...I wonder if I can find a similar part?

Hey y'all, What type of heater hose do you use for a 620? Do you use 1/2" inside diameter, or 5/8"? What type of clamps do you use? I had a leak at the end of one my heater hoses. The hose was a 3/4" inside diameter and may have been installed by previous owner. I went ahead and replaced it with a 5/8", and got new worm clamps. However the leak is still there. I've wiped down both the nipple and inside the hose, as well as tightened the clamp very tight. I'm wondering what you all use in this situation. Thanks! Yousef

Hi all, Have any of you changed a front brake hose on a 1974 620? I'm running into an issue with every brake hose in that it doesn't want to screw in to the caliper side. There is a "lip" that is on one side of the caliper side hole that prevents the nut on the hose from getting past it and screwing in. Anyone have this experience? My previous hose had a sort of "curved end" (not sure what that is called) and separate screw that went into that end of the hose. Should I saw off the lip? It doesn't seem to be serving a purpose that I can see... Any info would be appreciated Thanks, Yousef

Hi All, Any suggestions on a good replacement cap for a 1974 Datsun 620. I seem to have lost the original brake master cylinder cap, and am having trouble finding a replacement online. Thanks, Yousef

Nevermind, I think it's ok after trying it a few times. I didn't realize the tension of the cable while using the pedal keeps it from slipping off versus moving it manually...

Hi all, I have a 74 620 and I am still new to working on cars, I'm not sure if I messed something up. Basically I was trying to see how the whole throttle system works, so while the engine was on I decided to manually move the throttle mechanism with my hand. I noticed a pop sound when I did this but was not sure what it was. I then began to use the actual throttle pedal while looking at the throttle mechanism under the hood and thats when the accelerator cable came loose off of the carburetor. I popped the end of the cable back but it seems that whenever I push down all the way on the throttle now, the throttle return spring rubs against the cable end, and pops it off. It doesn't seem to me that the spring should be touching the end of the cable at any point. I'm going to look for any component that might have came off when I heard that first sound. Should there be any contact between the spring rubbing against the accelerator cable end? Here is a pic of the knocked off accelerator cable: https://www.flickr.com/photos/151095145@N07/34787504692/in/dateposted-public/

Hi all, I recently picked up a 1974 Datsun 620 with an L18 with a rebuilt head. Apparently the previous owner replaced the head gasket and did a valve job (no porting). After getting it looked at by a mechanic they told me that I should get work done on the head, based on me turning on the engine ( no tests were done). They also showed me that the exhaust pipe was sucking in air every couple seconds. They said that it should be taken to a machine shop and could cost upwards of 1000 dollars. I decided to do some tests of my own. Besides the exhaust pipe, the biggest symptom seems to be I'm experiencing some low power. The vehicle doesn't have much get up and go but can reach 80-90mph, it just takes some time. I decided to do a compression test and found that compression was low but consistent on all cylinders. About 100-110psi. This also stayed the same after squirting oil in each cylinder. I wouldn't say the engine runs rough and it has never died on me after warmed up. If compression is low on all cylinders that would normally indicate worn out rings right? However adding oil should then increase my numbers significantly right? Could this be a timing issue perhaps? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks everyone! -Yousef

Great thank you so much for this. It looks like I do have the springy arm thing! I appreciate it, cheers.

So the wire isn't attached directly to the wheel, but instead contact is made through the pin touching ring? I bought a stock steering wheel on ebay (the one with the horn bar), so i'm assuming when you refer to the ring you're more or less just referring to the material on backside of the wheel. I don't have that pin setup, I'll have to look into that. Thank you for your description Mike.

Hi All, I've recently installed a new horn on my 620, and I've had to try and wire the thing to my steering wheel. The problem is that when I turn the wheel the wire will, of course, end up wrapping around the steering column. This causes wear and tear on the wire that I'd like to avoid. Any other methods that folks have used to get around this besides using an external button? Maybe someone could tell me how their horn wiring works on a stock 620. Thanks, Yousef

Hi All, I'm looking to replace the carpet on my 620. After removing my carpet I find that there is residue from the adhesive from the carpet as well as regular dirt etc. Any recommendations on what type of spray to use for a good scrub? Thanks, Yousef