Moist Lightning

Just compared the isuzu TFR pickup arms to my blue hands the length and width seem right but the ball joint is a bit more centered on the isuzu so caster might be off a bit. Edit: i didn't buy a isuzu arm, just compared measurements roughly to the ones above and where the ball joint was compared to the center of the cross shaft.

Only dimensions I could find so far Control Arm Maximum Length 237 Control Arm Maximum Width 288.5 Mounting Hole Diameter 12.3 Someone in the usa should try to order one, I would but shipping is too much outside usa for what ive found so far https://www.ebay.com/itm/125348119710

It not so much the work involved but the type of work. Watching bluehands videos on chopping and welding the lowers makes that type of modification seem out my capabilities. modifying adjustables / hiring someone to weld mounts to frame for lower is just what would be easiest for me(also have a cheap machine shop if i need parts machined). Honestly if someone started making a nice set again I would buy. Have a set of bluehands but i got 2 trucks so have to figure out something for the second eventually. Not in a rush to get it done but if i make any progress ill make a post. Otherwise I'm hoping someone starts production in the meantime. Additionally it seems everyone who has made them in the past either has to charge a lot (understandable) and / or cant produce many. so any part of the modification that we could find prefabbed parts to use would probably help, even if a lot has to be custom still. Like you said could just be a pipe dream though.

I appreciate the feedback and you could very well be right , I haven't really done any research yet its just an idea thats been kicking around in the back of my head but im not completely convinced yet. adjustable uppers are basically a ball joint mount, threaded rod, threaded tube, heim joint and cross shaft. Can probably find a universal from sumit and shorten it for cheaper than making one. Might need a custom cross shaft though. and if welding new mounts for the lowers i feel like there is something out there, probably not something from a modern commuter vehicle, more likely something aftermarket for another old car or niche motorsport (for example I was looking at circle track steering racks for power steering as the are very narrow). If I find something in the future ill update

I was thinking of looking for universal adjustable uppers that have the correct geometry(uppers might need custom cross shaft to be bolt in) and weld new lower mounts to get some lower control arms is the correct position, will take a bit of research to find the correct combo of parts but I think it should be doable (probably need to weld new mounts for some different tension rods for the lowers too). Anyone have thoughts on this?

when you install the center link you want the pitman and idler arm parallels with each other and the frame when the wheels are straight. you can use the string method on the back wheels to ensure the front wheels are straight - lookup alignment string method. From there you can dial in you toe in/out. If you have adjustable outers use those to adjust rather than the center link. Really you should have a shop to align it perfectly but i got mine good with the string method, although you have to be very accurate with measurements and check multiple times.

Much appreciated:)

Awesome! Thanks for the support. I've got to put my posters back up too actually (still in storage since I moved)

I've finalized production of the much sought after headlight trim rings. You can check them out here Otherwise I've figured out a method to add tabs to the trim rings. Since the OEM ones are notorious for falling off I thought Id post a how to here as it can be used for OEM or Repop trim rings. Parts / Tools Required: • Stainless steel zip ties – 4.6mm wide • Pliers • Tin Snips • Packing Tape • Small file or soldering iron • Epoxy – JB weld recommended as its easy to find and cheap but other epoxies designed for metal to metal will work This method should result in more than adequate adhesion between the tab and ring under normal use. I was only able to get the tabs to come off when I tried to break them off by applying a sideload; they should be fine for normal use. Using a industrial epoxy intended for permanent metal to metal adhesion such as panel bond may increase the bond strength but unfortunately are not available in small/affordable sizes. For additional security it is recommended to tie some fishing line around each ring on the grill. 1. Cut stainless steel strips into 2.2 inch sections. 2. Fold the sections in half and crimp 3. Pinch folded sections close to the open end and fold wings in either direction. 4. Test fit tabs. Some holes will need to be widened with a small file or soldering iron. Additionally the top 2 tabs may need to be trimmed so as to not protrude over the edge of the grill. 5. Place Strips of packing tape over the tab holes on the grill and cut a slit in the tape. 6. Sand and clean the tab wings and the back of the trim ring where they will make contact. Ensure to wipe finger grease from both as it can prevent epoxy from mating. The strength of the adhesion will be dependent on your prep work. 7. Place tabs in grill holes. Mix epoxy and place on tab wings, try to make a small pile that will squish down when you place the ring on top. 8. Place trim ring over tabs on grill. While holding down the trim ring reach behind the grill and press the tab up into the ring to ensure good contact. 9. Leave to dry for twice as long as your epoxy recommends. Being sandwiched between the tape and trim ring may cause the dry time to increase. If you dont have the tools to make/install tabs here are some other options. Silicone – Just like the tabs you should sand back of rings and clean all surfaces of oil and grease first. 3m adhesive, Either a thick doubles sided tape or emblem adhesive. Should be able to remove them with a bit of heat, Not sure how much heat would be required and if it would warp the grill. Extra Security: Tie some fishing line around each trim ring on the grill. No one will see it unless they are a few feet away. If you go to a show just cut it off and tie on a new one before you go.

I think we talked briefly on facebook. I posted a 3d prototype of these. Hant had time to work on them for a while now. If you make some I would probably buy a set. My plan was to try and make a press to reproduce them from sheet metal but its a pretty thick piece with some dramatic bends so I'm not sure how well it would work out. Plan b is to make carbon fiber version but i doubt it would be worth my time to produce a lot of them in carbon fiber. If I can press them out of sheet metal would be easy to produce for others. As i said it will be a while before I get to this so if you beat me to it Ill probably just buy some if your are selling.

Hey, That me making the trim rings. Working on adding tabs to the back for next batch. Also plan on making hood trim once headlight rings are sorted.

I read through the form again thought you were talking about the 620 l16 mounts when you said 3/16 shorter; which is about the difference i measured from my 72 620 mounts vs my 77 mounts. the mounts i got were the same as op. will have to try some 521 mounts, thanks. went through my post history to get my measurements: l20b mounts: Roughly 1.9" L16 mounts: Roughly 1.5" so 521 might be in-between those two. if i get some ill update.

I thought this too but the l16 mounts i got from rockauto were the same height as my l20b mounts even though they were obviously a diffrent style. If the ones you end up getting are a bit shorter I would like to know where you got them / what brand or part number.

I see these for sale in canada almost as often as i see normal ones for sale. They all seem to be listed way to high though. Everyone wants 8-10k for their dilapidated camper. Edit: if you looking for more info on these there is another company/version called the little chief.

When i took them out I just unscrewed 3(maybe 4) bolts and removed the window with the metal piece it slides into(window track). Should be able to do the opposite. attach the metal piece to the window, lower window into door, attach 3 bolts and done.