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rinigado

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  1. I tried evaporust initially on a part of the frame, but based on the results figured it'll take forever and cost a mint to do the whole thing that way. For the frame treatment seemed a bit overkill. The one good thing about it though is if you brush it on and leave it on (i.e. let it dry on the metal), it'll seal somewhat and keep rust away until you get back to it the next weekend. Getting close enough, then red primer and rust paint should last plenty long where I'm at, but I don't have salt or much inclement weather to deal with here, so ymmv.
  2. recently painted the frame on my 521 rust-oleum rusty metal primer and rust-oleum semi gloss black with a spraygun. The truck is from so-cal, so my frame wasn't in bad shape, just surface scale. Wire cup on a grinder to clean most of the frame. I did sand blast in tighter spots, and finally brushed on some phosphoric acid (ospho, jasco, etc) on much of the frame before priming. I gave a quick wash of any areas treated with jasco prior to spraying, to make sure there wasn't any leftover un-consumed acid that'd show through after painting. Touchup later is simple and cheap. Wire wheel is cheap if your time isn't worth anything, but going over it all with a wire wheel is time consuming.
  3. I haven't tried any..seems like people with more skill than I have run DC but with a thicker tungsten and shield with helium and maybe with some preheating. Here's an example www.youtube.com/watch?v=EA2UL5XGdvg
  4. for aluminum tig, you want AC so that the electrode positive half of the cycle breaks up the oxidation layer (cleaning) on alumnium surface and allow negative half of the cycle to get through that layer and put the heat into your metal. AC tig machines that can supply enough current for thicker aluminum get expensive though.
  5. I have an older tig machine, but it's DC only, so...hooray steel!
  6. I have this..exported from a 3d printer file I made. The holes for bolts, cooling and ports are shown as .25" here and are used for location. I printed them this way and used a center punch to mark where I'll drill the actual holes, each of which are obviously not 0.25" diameter in the end. Port size depends on your head. I printed 2 separate, traced the outline, punched at each hole location and variously used a bandsaw and drill to rough out each flange. It's
  7. drums on my 521 did something like that..got tighter and tigher after several stops. Problem was I didn't have any extra slack in the brake pedal, so when I took my foot off the brake pedal, the pushrod in the MC was just barely unable to fully come back out. not sure if same for you, but the brake pedal has to allow the MC piston to fully back out when you're not on the brakes. Otherwise there will be this continual build up of a tiny amount of pressure in the brakes. Should be just a bit of play when you're not on the brake pedal.
  8. yowza 78 280z auto - $37500 https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/cto/d/pristine-1978-datsun-280zog/6629885579.html
  9. stack some small spot welds w mig (or tig) until it's tall enough to weld a nut on. Then hit w penetrating oil. The heat shocks things loose. I wiggle it back and forth when I feel resistance once I get the nut on and start turning it out w a wrench, rather than try to keep turning in one direction; let's the oil work in a little bit I think. if it's flush, then just stack the nut on and weld in the middle.
  10. Close ratio 5 speed tranny - $2000 (Yucaipa) https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/pts/d/close-ratio-5-speed-tranny/6623269340.html what's a whole beater 280zx cost?
  11. rinigado

    Decklid racks.

    someone down this way has a CL ad for a '77 810 that shows a rack installed
  12. I bought some dura brake drums a while back for my front wheels from rockauto..they fit ok. 16 bucks each, was about the same as what the guy wanted to turn the old drums. installed straight out of the box.
  13. Mike said someone should chop these things up like once a year..some guy on youtube just checked again: different year, same fram
  14. As for the rear breaks can anyone comment on the placement of the bottom smallest spring holding tension on the shoes? Not sure if it's hooked in the right spot. the reference material we have doesn't show it clearly. I want to say there's a hole on the rear plate of the brake where the short end of that little return spring (one end of the spring has a hook that's longer, one end is shorter). I didn't stretch that spring between holes on the 2 shoes. I'll see if I have a picture.
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