Jan_280Z

Hello mates I've finally hit the time where I have enough time and funds to start refurbishing my 620 (its been a while). I've pulled the dash out in a feeble attempt to repair the thousands of cracks it has. Before I get too far ahead of myself (it already happened so...), does anyone know where one can locate a newish dash or a refurbished one? Thanks all Jan

Thanks for the quick response mate. This may seems like a noob question, but is seam sealer be replaced? Is it as simple as just putting new stuff on? I've never really done body work extensively so any help would be wonderful thanks Jan

Hey mates To make a long story short, my brother owns a 1976 Datsun 620 (which hopefully will be mine soon) which was painted by the previous owner with house paint, yes cottage white apparently was what he had on hand and used a brush (yes a BRUSH) to paint the whole thing. I've decided that this needs to be fixed, so thus I'm in the process of stripping and painting her again. I do have a question, this afternoon while working on the rain gaurd above the passenger's door I've noticed that there is some sort of stuff between the crack of the rain gaurd and the body. Is this supposed to be here? What is this? I scrapped it all out, it looked like a plastic or something, as it was pretty much falling apart as I was taking paint off. Thanks Jan

The engine does not smoke from the exhaust, or at least I haven't seen it smoke. The motor was used so I can see it being rather used. The breather tube is quite clean and so is the inside of the valve cover. Other then a rebuild is there anything one can do to fix this? Thanks Jan

Hey mates Does anyone happen to run a weber 32/36 carb and have the air pump still hooked up? I'm trying to figure a way to do this. Thanks Jan

Hey Mates Finally got the "new" motor running in my 620 - did an engine swap as old engine was pretty toast. Started and ran it until I got it to operating temp and the thermostat opened. I opened the oil fill plug on the valve cover to look at the cam lobe while the car ran and was met with a large amount of air coming out as the car ran. Is this normal? With my Z I can open the oil fill plug and watch the cam lobe as it turns - and get oil all over the place - but there is no air. Thanks Jan

Hey mates A few weeks ago I was able to score a pretty intact original airbox for my 620. A few questions. What are the two little metal tabs on the inside (pic included). Are they needed? Is there a way to take the little flap thing out, I want to clean the inside of it as its dirty as hell. http://postimg.org/image/n5ea1lipt/ Thanks all Jan

It's apparently warped according to a few mechanics that have looked at it.

Hey mates So heres a bit of an update. I did a motor swap on my brother's 620 pickup truck a few weeks ago - three to be exact. Everything went well but we couldn't get it running. After much debate it was discovered that there's a huge vacuum leak at the base of the carb - its a webber the gaskets are all bad apparently.. On that note, does anyone know where one can get the carb base for a weber 32/36? I found THIS on ebay, but would like to make sure it is what I need. Any help would be appreciated.

A few questions. One, does the electric choke just need to be connected to a 12 volt switched source? Secondly, this is the kit I'm looking at buying. Is that missing any parts to mount it? Thanks Jan

Hooligan, I would be down to see more pics that would be lovely. Thanks Jan

Actually its for my brother's 620. My 280 has tunable (megasquirt) fuel injection. Thanks for the pics though.

Hey mates Does anyone here run a Weber 32/36 DGEV? If so could I possibly see a picture of how everything is hooked up. Thanks Jan

I used the original pedestal that came with the old engine along with the dizzy that came off it.

Hey mates This past weekend I did a motor swap in my brother's 620 pickup. I pulled his very old and poorly running l20B out and put in a "newer" rebuilt one I purchased from a friend. The removal and reinstall went well up to the point when I had to get her running. I mechanically timed the motor per spec given in the FSM and on this website. When done the motor looked like the picture below. Also ran the valves - adjusted them - per spec in the FSM The distributor looked similar to the picture below except that the vacuum advance is near the block opposed to away from the block like the picture shows. (I didn't have a camera handy so I'm stealing pictures off the net thanks to ratsun) Went to start the truck. Nothing just kept cranking. When I pressed the accelerator I finally got her to fire up. The second I let the pedal go though she dies. I've spent hours trying to figure out what the problem is. I marked the crank yellow paint at TDC - to use the timing gun on - and found that when she runs at 1000 rpm the timing seems to be at + 5 (ATDC) degrees. So I mechanically timed the motor again via all the photos and descriptions I could find. Same result. With the car at 2000 RPM or so the timing mark reads -15 (btdc). Im at my wits end here. What am I doing wrong? Any advice would be lovely. Thank you Jan