zookeeper

:confused: So I keep blowing an engine control fuse on my 1984/85 720 king cab and I am not sure how to go about trying to find the short. Has anyone used one of these: Power Probe ECT2000 Short Open Circuit Detector.

So this is my partners 720. I'm going to try and explain the history of what has happened so far. She got it and it worked fine for a week then It would have problems starting once and a while and had very low power. One day the throttle got jammed and was going faster than we could stop. She jumped out the window. I was in the passenger seat and turned the key off and yanked on the emergency brake just in time to stop before a busy intersection. It was a close one. During the ordeal we heard some loud pops. We pushed the truck back home just a few blocks away. That's when I found that the spring on the carburetor spindle was all tangled on the bolt that holds it on. also it seemed to be missing parts. Springs and tabs were just bent up not being used. I cleaned it and put it back the way I could best do based on online tutorials and common sense. The truck started and drove after that and we were off to test it out. As soon as we got to around 40 mph a loud pop happened and the thing never started again. I took it home and inspected all I could. It had almost no compression and nothing I could do would get it starting. All it would do is sporadically backfire through the intake. I brought the motor to a Japanese auto place and they said the whole engine was scrap metal. It had over bored cylinders, cracked cylinder head, and areas with sloppy welding inside. We decided to get a rebuilt engine. The new engine went in with no problems. Put all the cables and hoses up the way they had been and the thing looked very promising. Went to start it and it would turn over but never actually start. it was getting fuel, spark and the timing was all done perfectly to the manual I have. I noticed the spark from the old spark plugs were orange so I got new spark plugs. The spark was still orange. A few attempts to start after the new spark plugs and then the engine control fuse blew out. the fuse blows out every time I try to start it now. I am at frustration point because pretty much everything looks correct except a few little things that were not different when the truck was running and instead all I managed to do is acquire a new issue. I am looking for any suggestions as to how to approach problem solving. I think I'm going to need a multi-meter at this point. I love the general supportive community attitude of this site. I wish to learn and give info when I can. My experience is more in a fabrication, powder coating and fiberglass arena. I need an air filter for the carb and some hose plugs. Also the electric is obviously cobbled together. I can take more pictures! I have nothing but this project to do until its running well.

WOW I just saw this post and realized we both were doing an engine swap in almost the same rain storms. Im in Tacoma. Really nice vehicles you have. Inspirational! Its the first engine swap for me and it seemed to go well until I tried starting it for the first time and it just dose not start. It seems to be getting spark fuel and the timing is all correct to the manual I have and at this point Im kind of out of ways to approach problem solving. I trust the engine I got that was rebuilt but I dont trust some of the weird fixes the truck had before I got it. I put everything in the places I found them but that is not necessarily the correct place.

If it was preexisting damage it wouldn't have so many dangling loose flakes of paint and there would be rust. A friend of mine looks at claims and evidence for an insurance company and agrees that it looks like recent damage.

So was the piece of wood screwed in to reinforce it for the time being? does it flex closer together much by hand? I did a fix like that with a strip of steel i got from a junk filing cabinet. I sanded and wire brushed the rust off, then used clamps and wooded wedges to get everything straight and in position, then tack welded the piece of steel three times on every peak and valley of the corrugated part. After that I brazed a nice fillet, wire brushed again with a grinder, and painted with a spray can of rubberizer. welding all the way across would be tricky and hard not to warp everything. Tack and braze! it looked legit.

Its a rebuild that I trust. I don't have the old one, it had messed up pistons as well as valves for sure. Its a wonder it was ever running the way it was. Almost as strange as why this new one is not running. I know its getting spark and that the timing is correct. I know it has compression. The fuel pump works great so I think its the carburetor that is the problem. I need to find a manual for it as well as some sort of air filter situation that fits. Would backfiring through the intake damage or compromise a carb?

It looks like you have the similar intake and carb my truck has. It was like that when I got it. it had new studs implanted to deal with the different bolt pattern. It has since had a lot of issues and Im trying to finish up with a z24engine swap. The old engine started to backfire from the intake and nothing else, it had no compression. The new one isn't running and im trying to figure out why. I hope I dont need a new carb or something bigger. I spent all my money on the engine.