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MaxChlan

Member Since 13 Aug 2016
Offline Last Active Jul 21 2017 08:51 PM
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Topics I've Started

I found another one!

28 June 2017 - 07:11 PM

When I got my truck, I acquired a brochure book (see it here). My truck is an 86, but the book was an 84, so I thought what the heck and searched it up on the naked lady giver. Turns out some dude on Ebay has a few of them, and here it is! I think the coolest part of the this book is the spec sheet, which is kind of the end all be all for questions regarding options on different models and trim packages, so take a look at that if you are curious. Interestingly, it tells you which rear end came in which truck, which is something that is good to know. Anyway, I hope you guys enjoy!

 

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Quick Oil Question

24 May 2017 - 08:03 AM

I run Shell Rotella Triple T 10w30 in my Z24, and I have noticed that my local parts stores have stopped carrying it in favor of T4 and T5. I'm due for an oil change soon, so I was wondering if I should make the switch to T5. 


Tilt Column Tightening and Adjustment

19 May 2017 - 09:33 AM

If your tilt column is loose or does not hold the wheel in one place when it the upright position, it is very annoying. Narrowly avoiding cars in the lot because your steering column just randomly shifted up on you can get very tiresome after awhile. I noticed there was not a thread that mentioned how to do this, so here is how to tighten your tilt steering! You'll need:

  1. Philips head screwdriver
  2. 12mm wrench
  3. Patience

1. Locate the four screws that hold the top and bottom portions of the column cover together, and remove them, taking note of where they are located. Two of them have washers, and two don't. Just take a picture and set them aside. 

 

2. Once the screws are removed, start with the side closest to the ignition, and worjk your way around, opening it by pressing on the inside out until the clips snap out of their holders. Be careful, and certainly don't rush. If it isn't going, it isn't going. 

 

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3. Once the cover is in two pieces, remove the hazard light switch from the top of the cover. Two small screws (be sure they do not fall) and it's out. Set the top portion of the cover aside. 

 

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4. Remove the bezel from the ignition; it is just a little plastic piece that slides off when you pull up on the little back tabs. Set it aside

 

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5. Remove the bottom cover by gently sliding it around. It is a little bit of a squeeze and flex to get it out. Once it's out, you can finally get a look at the tilt column assembly. 

 

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6. Using your 12mm socket or wrench, remove the bolt that is holding in the lever. It is reverse threaded. Once the bolt and washer are removed, slide the lever off.

 

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7. To tighten up the tilt column, all you need to do is tighten up this spline that the lever slides on. Once it is slightly tight, you can place the lever in a slightly down position, and pull it up so that the system is hand tight. Test and make sure it is tight by turning the wheel back and forth and look for any looseness. 

 

8. Once the tilt is tight, put the 12mm bolt back into its place, and lock it down.

 

9. Reverse the disassembly process to put together the covers, bottom on first.The bottom cover is a trick to get on, but just take your time, look where it is catching, and adjust to get it on. The clips just snap back into place.

 

 

I hope this helps!


KA24E Swap into a 1986 720 4x4 Questions

13 May 2017 - 08:14 PM

As those on the forum may know, I have a 1986 720 4x4 with the carbureted Z24 engine. As it stands, my Z24 runs fairly well. If you've read my thread, my truck does not have the fast idle cam screw, so it is pretty cold blooded. The Hitachi is not the best carburetor in the world, but once it's warm I do not have any issues. In addition, oil seems to disappear from the engine, but not at an alarming rate. I check it every time I fill up, and I put 1/4 or 1/2 a quart every four or five fill ups depending on how much I am driving. As of right now, it is not a concern. Looking into the future, I see myself having this truck for some time as I have grown fond of the bumpy ride and the people coming up to me at the local Holiday saying that their dad/brother/uncle had a truck just like mine, and how they loved it. With this in mind, I have a few questions regarding the Z24:

 

  1. What is the life expectancy? 200,000? 300,000?
  2. What starts to go wrong, and what types of preventative maintenance can I do other than retorquing the head bolts to prevent head gasket failure? 
  3. When should I just replace the head gasket?

If the outlook looks good, I would like to keep the Z24 in for as long as possible. With this in mind, I am also afraid that I might get tired of the cold-bloodedness and the somewhat underpowered nature, and also the potential lack of parts or issues with the Z24 down the road, which brings me to the topic of this thread.

 

The actual swapping of the engine does not seem like that big of a commotion. From the research I have done, I have learned that KA's bolt right to the FS5W71B (short shaft) transmission in the 720 with an ECU, higher pressure fuel pump, and some fabbing of engine mounts. What does concern me however is the long term viability to driveability of the truck, and if swapping is right for me. Budget aside, I have quite a few questions:

  1. For those who have swapped into 4x4 trucks, have you noticed better daily driving? (Better MPG, quieter, more power, or whatever you think makes a good daily)
  2. What is the definitive maximum crank or wheel horsepower the FS5W71B transmission and other driveline components can take on a 4x4?
  3. If I were to swap, what would be on my checklist?
  4. What are some things to watch out for while I have the engine out of the truck? Any other to-dos?
  5. Lastly, is it worth the time, money, and effort?

Like I said, this is not a pressing issue. I am not being forced to make a decision. This is mostly for getting an idea, checking things out, and potentially ordering parts months or years in advance so that when the Z24 decides to go, I have the things I need to keep this 720 on the road. 

 

 

 


Window Seals and Door Seals

10 March 2017 - 06:24 AM

Hey Fellas, back again with a question about door seals and weatherstripping. 

 

Firstly, a few months ago I was involved in a slight incident with my driver's side door and a garage door, which pushed the window frame forward and made the door unclosable. I was pissed, but was able to correct the issue, and now it looks as if it's never happened. (the door is less than a mm too low; the only way you can tell is if you follow the decals and notice that they are ever so slightly off).. This incident resulted in some damage to the door seal. which means that when I am in a car wash, water drips down the side of the door. 

 

Secondly, there is some excessive wind noise at around 50 MPH and above, which I think is due to the door seal and the window seal. After closely inspecting it, it seems like the seal for the window was replaced at some point, or it was bound up and permanently messed up. I suspect this because when I go through a car wash, there is a slight amount of water the penetrates the bottom right (towards the front of the vehicle) side of the window. 

 

My questions are:

  • Is there a writeup on replacing the window and door seals?
  • Where can I get seals that will actually work and seal properly? 

 

Here are some pictures, because pictures are fun:

 

An Image of the damaged seal from my incident. You can see where I hit the side of the garage door and pushed the window forward: 

 

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An Image of the window seals. The red highlights what seems weird, and the blue highlights what is most likely messed up: 

 

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For contrast, here is an image of the passenger side: 

 

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For fun, here is a picture of the hinges which are all gross: 

 

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