After purchasing this to replace the Power steering idler pulley, I discovered that it was too big for the application. The original has a 17mm (11/16th inch) bore for the bearing, and about a 76 mm diameter, and this one is... too large. I can not find the original Nissan part number after looking at NissanPartsDeal, and I can not find a similar pulley with the correct dimensions. Does anyone have any ideas?
Here is a picture of what I am talking about (this is a diagram for a hardbody)
and here is a picture of it in the engine bay (from Lockleaf's 720 thread)
. I have no interior lol. So that's done. It seems the LUK heavy duty is the only one that comes with a new throw out bearing. I have access to an auto lift and trans Jack so that will help
You're set then! I bought my Exedy kit off of Amazon, so it came with a new throwout bearing, but LUK brand is good too. Just as long as you have the right sized clutch (240mm I think?) you should be gucci.
I can get a Beck Arnley clutch kit for 115 or an LUK BRAND for 130. Anybody suggest one over the other?
I used an Exedy OEM clutch kit, and it's been working like a charm.
If you have access to a lift, it's not that bad to remove a transmission. My cousin and I replaced my clutch in 5 hours; you just have to unbolt the most forward cross-member, disconnect the driveshaft, and the transmission drops out with a little tilting and sliding. You'll need to tear apart the interior and remove the sound-dampening around the shifter boot, but I guess that's just part of the job.
Seems like a master cylinder issue, but it's never a bad idea when changing clutch/master/slave to look at the rubber hoses for any deterioration or leaking, as that may lead to some air getting in the system. It seems like the master has air in it, so here is what you can do:
With the master out of the vehicle, put in in a vice. Grab an old clutch hard line out of a junker or whatever you have laying around, and bend it so that when fluid gets pushed out, it goes back into the reservoir. Fill the reservoir about halfway, and push it in and out like 100 times, then check and make sure that when you give it one whole push in, there is no air coming out. After that, install it into the vehicle, and bleed the system as you typically would. Check every single soft line/hard line connection and make sure they aren't wet with fluid and that it's all sealed, then after making sure you have a full reservoir, gravity bleed the system using the slave bleed valve for about 10-15 minutes. That is the best way to install/bleed a new master/slave combo.
Like Mike said, make sure your master pushrod is attached to the clutch pedal with the fork and dolley, secured by the little pin so it doesn't fall out.
If your do all that, and you're still getting no pressure, or the master won't stop spitting out air when you're bleeding it in the vice, your master was just a dud.
Not sure if this is the best place to post this, but I was wondering if there are any other 720 owners up here in Minnesota. I've been looking on the internet for a Datsun Club here in MN, and I haven't come across any active websites that are doing meetups or anything like that. I was at the LQK (only one in MN) up in Blaine, and the big guy working the desk there said that supposedly there is a guy up there that has four 720s in his garage/driveway, but he was unable to confirm whether they were 620's, 720's, or hardbodys. You'd be hard pressed to find even a hardbody up here that isn't completely rusted out or a hunting/mudding rig, so I can only imagine that there are not too many 720's left up here. Personally, I had never even seen or heard of a 720 before I purchased my '86 4x4. I know there is one guy on the forums up here in the cities, but I forget his name, so that makes for a total of two 720's in MN, running or otherwise. No junkyards have them, which is a bummer. If anyone's up here, light a smoke signal or something so I can have someone to appreciate these vehicles with.
I looked inside the clutch master cylinder reservoir and there's this black sludge that used to be brake fluid. Or whatever nissan called for. I was going to get a rebuild kit for 7 dollar but hell, a beck Arnley is 20 buccks and a centric is 15. Anyone use either one?
I just replaced my master, slave, and clutch. The slave I ordered off of Amazon, and the master I got at O'Reilly. I would be concerned with any sludge in the hard lines and the soft lines going to the slave... I'm not sure how you would go about cleaning that.
Sorry this is an old post but I have a similar problem. My temp gauge only moves a tiny bit to the middle even after the engine is warm. I can hear the thermostat opening and closing, and the heat works just fine. New T stat, hoses, flushed the cooling system. My fuel gauge works. The tach works most of the time but I have to tap it. The SENSOR light stays on, not sure why. The oil pressure light works. The battery light now stays on, but I haven't tested the voltage yet to check the alternator. How hard is it to remove the cluster? I have the bezel and the main screws off. What else holds it? I read mike's info on pulling some slack from the speedo cable.
Disregard the sensor light I see Mikes instructions for the fix.
I want to check the temp sending unit. But If I can't access it without removing hoses it will just have to stay in the COLD lol. I JUST put all the cooling system back together.
I had a similar issue with my temperature gauge. My issue was the temperature sender, which is kind of a pain to get to. I was able to access it by turning the wheels full lock to the right and hoping into the wheel well. To test the gauge and wiring, stick a piece of wire into the plug and ground it to the manifold; if it reads full hot, like Mike said your gauge is good. Take some contact cleaner to it and see if that fixes the problem, otherwise the replacement sender is like $10 on Ebay. I can send you a link if need be. Changing it is kind of a bitch, but with a 10 mil (I think) extension you should be able to get at it enough to be able to turn it with your hand.
If you're having trouble getting the cluster out, see my thread here where I have a picture of what the speedo cable looks like (you have to push on the top and pull out, all with like three fingers, good luck, you are able to get another quarter inch of slack by pushing the cable from the engine bay into the cab). Otherwise, the bezel comes off with two screws (be very careful with the screws, because the top hole tends to be brittle and crack) and two little slidey tab thingies (See my thread again for pictures), so you kinda have to muscle it. Once the bezel is off, its four screws for the cluster, and a bunch of wires and a speedo cable to unplug out of the back. You don't have to remember where they go, because they only go in one place. It's pretty nice. While you have that shit all apart, if you have any lights that are out/dim, replace them. I just replaced mine tonight and they look nice and pretty.