You know how when you replace components that are under pressure, the next weakest link fails? I should have learned when I replaced the clutch, then the slave, and then the master in the span of three weeks, but nooooooooo:
After my radiator job, a hose started leaking, and it is probably the hardest one to get to. Where the lower radiator hose meets the block, there is another hose that takes a 90 out of the block and goes to under the intake manifold. I'm pretty sure it is a feed hose for the heater core, and it is approximately 10 or so inches in length. Thankfully there is already a post out there for this, so I will just follow what is on there for the replacement. For those that like OEM, I think the part is 92422M on this diagram, which is found under the heater section on the Nissan Parts USA website:
Posted by MaxChlan
on 05 September 2017 - 05:40 PM
On the Z24, the 2nd set of plugs has nothing to do with the engine right? It burns in the exhaust manifold???
I believe so. I remember reading somewhere that the second set of plugs do not fire under heavy acceleration conditions. A quick google search gave me this, quoting Mike here:
They fire together at the same time from the factory. Who told you different?
Later Z24s had a cut out to switch to single plug when accelerating under heavy load. Your dizzy would have a 3 wire harness and a single extra 4th WHITE wire with it's own plug. If you unplug this WHITE wire it stays on dual plug operation all the time.
Posted by MaxChlan
on 05 September 2017 - 12:22 PM
Personally if I found an MPG or standard truck with some ST components I would know that at least someone at some point cared about the truck enough to go through the trouble of finding the parts and replacing them. You're right that most of the ST wheels that appear on Ebay are fairly shot up. I wonder if you couldn't fit the horn button into a Grant GT or NRG wheel? That is something I want to do.
Does anyone know a place where I can host a factory service manual? I found a PDF for the 1986 Nissan 720 FSM, and am slowly putting in bookmarks so it is easier to use for all of us. Anyone have any ideas?
Here is my work in progress:
The bookmarks with the arrows are all nested and located in the PDF. It's gonna be so nice to jump around to what you need without endless scrolling, especially on mobile.
According to my Nissan Trucks Brochure dated 1985, here is what the fuel tank sizes are in US gallons:
Regular Bed: 13.2
Long Bed: 16.9
Cab and Chassis: 16.9
King Cab: 13.2
Regular Bed: 15.8
Long Bed: 19.8
King Cab: 15.8
As a side note, I have never filled my truck up passed 13 gallons (86 KC 4x4), so I am assuming that when the gauge reads on E, you still have at least two gallons left. I am not sure how you are checking your mileage, but what I do is reset my trip odometer every time I fill up, and when I fill up next, divide the miles driven by the amount of gallons I put into the tank.
Nope, just the good old Hitachi. I typically get about 20 point something if I do a lot of local driving, about 21 to 22 if I spend most of the time hanging out around 55-60. Most of the freeways around the Twin Cities are 55 and 60, with a few exceptions. The book says I should be getting 21 on the highway and 19 in town, so I am not sure why my mileage is on the high side. Mine is also a California emissions version, and I almost always shift around 4000 when accelerating in 2nd and 3rd.
I got a hair up my ass today and decided to see what a 720 hides behind it's slightly cracked dashboard and faux wood trim. I looked in the service manual and it said that it could be done in nine steps. Seems easy enough. The first steps were; package tray, steering column cover, cluster and all of its fun quirks (like the complete lack of slack in the speedo cable). Removing the eight screws holding the dash in place was fairly easy (except for having to use the smallest socket extension even to get the ones next to the windshield). The struggle was getting the cables from behind the radio disconnected. I had to resort to two pairs of needle nose pliers to get them apart, and it took me about ten minutes to figure out how to take apart the cigarette lighter. After all that was done, I hauled the dash out and disconnected the (I assume to be) antenna cable, as well as all of the HVAC stuff, which was the real reason why I was in there: I wanted to clean out the pipes and seal any leaks.
I've thought for a while that my truck did not have the greatest blower motor, but I had a sneaking suspicion that I had leaks as well. Turns out a did, as the AC and heater had disconnected and was causing a fairly sizeable amount of loss from the blower. A little duct tape fixed that:
Once that was done, I cleaned out all of the pipes with warm soapy water, and let everything air dry for a while. I adjusted the doors in the system as well so that they closed tighter when moving the switch; I think that will help a bit as well.
Once everything was adjusted and cleaned, I went ahead and put everything back together. Putting the dash back in was a little bit harder than taking it out; getting the pipes to line up was the hardest. Getting all of the wires for the radio reconnected was a pain too, especially the long connector that holds a resistor of some sort. Once everything was back into place, the rest of the assembly was pretty straight forward (mostly because this was my fourth time taking the cluster out of my truck since I've owned it). Overall, I thought this was a good learning experience and some insight into how the lomb sits back there; this experiment will be useful when I install a new head unit or speakers in the future. For now, I will just enjoy my nice AC that smells like Dawn.
Also, does anyone know what this blue wire is for? It is located under the steering column, and is wrapped around the ignition wires.
When I got my truck, I acquired a brochure book (see it here). My truck is an 86, but the book was an 84, so I thought what the heck and searched it up on the naked lady giver. Turns out some dude on Ebay has a few of them, and here it is! I think the coolest part of the this book is the spec sheet, which is kind of the end all be all for questions regarding options on different models and trim packages, so take a look at that if you are curious. Interestingly, it tells you which rear end came in which truck, which is something that is good to know. Anyway, I hope you guys enjoy!
Yeah, the tough call here is I have air conditioning, and honestly very rarely open the back window. I live in a city, and have been mildly concerned about someone breaking into my vehicle. I find that when the driver's side window is down, and the back vents are open, I have plenty of airflow in the cab. The math kind of breaks down like this:
Assuming I get $150 if I remove and sell the slider, the new non-slider glass, weatherstripping and moulding comes to about 280-150=130 If I were to fix the seals in my slider ~70 for the lower track and ~120 for the weatherstripping (which I am assuming is the same as the non-slider and is part code 79710Y on Nissan Parts Deal if someone could please confirm), it would cost me less to replace the slider with a non-slider.