So much great stuff in here. Here's what I am thinking: When I get home, I will adjust the pedal play, take a second look at the master cylinder level and make sure we have enough fluid; this should hopefully fix my reverse issue (based on what Mike and Wayno have said, it seems to be that the clutch just isn't quite disengaging all the way).The transmission doesn't make any of the stated growling or whining noises, but when it does, it will most likely be the front countershaft bearing, which in my B series is 62 mm because it is a later one. Does anyone have a source for bearings for the B transmission? It seems as though every transmission rebuild website I go to thinks that my truck has a 71C transmission.
The clutch was changed at around... ah, I don't have my book of records on me but I want to say that it was changed at 135,000, and there are a little over 141,000 miles on the truck. When we changed the clutch we changed the transmission oil, and I believe we used Redline 50305 MT-90 75W90 GL-4 (according to my Amazon account). After we changed the clutch we put a new master and slave in, bleed it properly, ect... I may have to adjust the pedal play because I like the clutch to operate right at the bottom of the pedal actuation so I do not have to move my foot so much; maybe that is what is causing the issue. When I get back to the US I will double check all of the fluids (even though I do it every time I fill up for gas).
This idea has been lingering the back of my head for a while, but I want to get some more definitive information on the subject. I have found that there have been a few people that have swapped their "B" transmission to a "C" transmission, and I have also discovered that rebuild kits for the B series transmission are difficult to source. I have been thinking about this because my truck ('86 720 4x4 with a "short" transmission) really hates going into reverse, like, really hates reverse. I come to a complete stop, put it in neutral, clutch in, clutch out, clutch in, then slowly, and I mean SLOWLY feed it into reverse. I feel the gears catch, and eventually it goes in, and that situation certainly doesn't give me any warm fuzzies. My worry is that eventually there will be some sort of catastrophic failure and my transmission will be toast. My questions are as follows:
Should I be concerned about my reverse gear? To my knowledge it is an unsynchronized reverse gear, so maybe this is just normal operating procedure.
If I need a new transmission, and elect to change from a "B" to a "C", which vehicles should I source my transmission from? It seems a lot easier to source a rebuild C than any condition B.
The B and C are two different lengths, so some driveshaft modifications will need to be made. Does anyone know any details on that?
I haven't driven my truck for a few months because I have been in Germany studying abroad, but this is just something that was in the back of my mind. I haven't seen a Datsun anything since I've been out here, so I am on the forums almost every day because I miss driving my 720 so much. You guys are giving me my fix until I get home at the end of December, so much appreciation for that.
Maybe your air passages aren't lined up from blower to AC to Heater. Do you feel any air moving under the dash on the passenger side? That is an indication that those parts may not have a perfect seal on each other, which would really reduce the speed of the air coming out of the vents. Does your blower motor work on all settings?
Posted by MaxChlan
on 18 September 2017 - 06:32 AM
You know how when you replace components that are under pressure, the next weakest link fails? I should have learned when I replaced the clutch, then the slave, and then the master in the span of three weeks, but nooooooooo:
After my radiator job, a hose started leaking, and it is probably the hardest one to get to. Where the lower radiator hose meets the block, there is another hose that takes a 90 out of the block and goes to under the intake manifold. I'm pretty sure it is a feed hose for the heater core, and it is approximately 10 or so inches in length. Thankfully there is already a post out there for this, so I will just follow what is on there for the replacement. For those that like OEM, I think the part is 92422M on this diagram, which is found under the heater section on the Nissan Parts USA website:
Posted by MaxChlan
on 05 September 2017 - 05:40 PM
On the Z24, the 2nd set of plugs has nothing to do with the engine right? It burns in the exhaust manifold???
I believe so. I remember reading somewhere that the second set of plugs do not fire under heavy acceleration conditions. A quick google search gave me this, quoting Mike here:
They fire together at the same time from the factory. Who told you different?
Later Z24s had a cut out to switch to single plug when accelerating under heavy load. Your dizzy would have a 3 wire harness and a single extra 4th WHITE wire with it's own plug. If you unplug this WHITE wire it stays on dual plug operation all the time.
Posted by MaxChlan
on 05 September 2017 - 12:22 PM
Personally if I found an MPG or standard truck with some ST components I would know that at least someone at some point cared about the truck enough to go through the trouble of finding the parts and replacing them. You're right that most of the ST wheels that appear on Ebay are fairly shot up. I wonder if you couldn't fit the horn button into a Grant GT or NRG wheel? That is something I want to do.
Does anyone know a place where I can host a factory service manual? I found a PDF for the 1986 Nissan 720 FSM, and am slowly putting in bookmarks so it is easier to use for all of us. Anyone have any ideas?
Here is my work in progress:
The bookmarks with the arrows are all nested and located in the PDF. It's gonna be so nice to jump around to what you need without endless scrolling, especially on mobile.
According to my Nissan Trucks Brochure dated 1985, here is what the fuel tank sizes are in US gallons:
Regular Bed: 13.2
Long Bed: 16.9
Cab and Chassis: 16.9
King Cab: 13.2
Regular Bed: 15.8
Long Bed: 19.8
King Cab: 15.8
As a side note, I have never filled my truck up passed 13 gallons (86 KC 4x4), so I am assuming that when the gauge reads on E, you still have at least two gallons left. I am not sure how you are checking your mileage, but what I do is reset my trip odometer every time I fill up, and when I fill up next, divide the miles driven by the amount of gallons I put into the tank.