Zephyr

Turn you heat up on your welder. Mybe slow down your travel speed so your edges wash in. Just trying to help

If you don't get a stethoscope like flatcat19 said I've had good luck using a long screwdriver put the handle end to your ear and other end against the spots you think the sound is coming from

Lock n stitch is company name

Lock and stich it is a really slick way to do that exact repair. I used the process on a Lincoln sa 200 engine driven welder I own it worked perfect. I did the repair 3 years ago I run the machine a lot and it has not leaked any coolant. My crack was 5" long in the water jacket. I have had hit or miss luck brazing and welding sometimes it works sometimes does not you have to make sure you get all the way to the end of the crack or it just starts again with the heat and cool cycles. To find the end of the crack use aviation dye usually a 2 can kit spray that enables you to see the end of the crack. If you are going to weld drill a small hole at the end of the crack at both ends and v the crack all the way to get good penetration the holes you drill will stop the crack from continuing. I used lock and stitch because I use my welder for work I didn't want a problem it's how I make money. The processes took me about 1.5 hours all you need is a drill having 2 makes it much faster. If your interested call them they are very helpful. I have no affiliation to the company it is a great product they fix container ships engines with this same process look on line. Hope this helps. I would post pictures of my fix but I'm a computer idiot.

Nice job that's a touchy repair keeping the heat at a happy medium and getting it clean. Not familiar with the mikuni carbs looks like you made a backing plate you left on incorporated into the repair. I like seeing parts saved

Last weekend Got the 510 running first turn of the key runs pretty good didn't run it for long radiator was not in took it and the heater core to the radiator shop. The oil pump/distributor gear was in really bad shape definitly the problem. Dropped the oil pan and straightened it all out. looked like there was a lot of assembly lube in the bottom of the pan I thought it was water mixed with oil but with further inspection looked like the assembly lube is what I saw. No sparkles in pan so I feel a lot better about it. My next step is getting the cooling system put back together. I have found all the hoses I need except the upper bypass hose and the lower bypass hose I could not find a part number for them. I think I found the part numbers for the heater hoses (ones in the engine bay) but not 100% sure. also need to find part number for the heater tube on the opposite side as the valve in the heater core box mine is shot. Thanks for the help I would send pictures but can't figure it out if I do I will post pictures. Thanks to Doctor 510 who got me a gear

Tried him he has not gotten back to me.

Thank you Doctor 510 car is up, motor blocked, crossmember bolts all the way loose I'll see if I can get the pan out before I pull the crossmember all the way out. If you could help me out with a good crank gear that would be great thank you. I'm not a pro mechanic but I was pretty sure I was going in the direction needed.

I dropped the steering because I noticed a slight very slight oil leak at the back corner. The po put gasket seal on the gasket bottom against the pan since I've got it all apart I was going to pull the pan and straighten it out scrape the gasket sealer off and put a new gasket on. The reason I am looking for a oil pan is because this one is beat up pretty bad. I also wanted to remove the pan to take a look at the crank and look in the bottom of the pan. Got a new distributor because the old one had the bolt broken off tried to drill it out got pissed off and didn't get it sometimes drilling a steel bolt out of aluminum can get the best of you it your don't go slow. The distributor shaft of the old one had some play to it anyway. I don't have an engine hoist. Compression was all 150. Yes I know I made a bad decision but fuck all that I'm going to get this car driving. Radiator is out as well as oil pump distributor rad hoses alternator. The center link is in my way everything is loose when I get the parts I need I am going to drop idler arm and the drivers side marked it all to put back in the same position tie rods and everything else is still together. Mybe if you don't have a five speed there is more room not sure. The only way I could see to remove the pan to straighten it out was to do what I've done. If there is an easier way to pull the pan without a hoist let me know. Still looking for crank oil pump gear and spindle if anyone has one for sale. And yes I made a bad decision bad decisions happen in the world everyday unless your perfect. All I am trying to do is get this car on the road.

I did check the dipstick oil looked fine just a little low. Coolant is heavier than oil and it had not been mixed I guess heavier than oil. I bought the car not running. I did do a compression check looked good. The distributor shaft threw me off. Every Time I would try to start it and it wouldn't and after turning the crank to tdc by hand it would be at 11:28 just luck (Or in this case bad luck) as it took 6 turns to do so. It had spark so I figured all was ok thought it was the carbs. Bad luck bad deal. I could tell you who I bought it from but I'm not into starting some bitch battle I'm not like that. karma will bite him one way or another. karma will get you when you least expect it and you wonder how and why. Thank you for all the help I've got the steering linkage all loose so as soon as I can find the parts I need I can drop the pan hopefully put a new one on as well as new crank oil gear, spindle and oil pump. Does any one know how tall the distributor housing or tube whatever you call it that's bolted to the motor is I feel like I've read there are different heights of them which would mybe keep the distributor from going all the way down to the tang it seems as though my distributor bottoms out about 1/8" shy from being all the way seated.

Yes should have known better Datzenmike I know the car needed work when I bought it it does have a lot of parts I wanted I'm mostly disappointed about water in the oil if you had the car and worked on it you knew there was coolant in the oil. Hopefully it got there from a blown head gasket and there's not a crack in the block. I did just put a head gasket on and looked pretty hard at it it all seemed fine to me but who knows crack in the water jacket won't know till I get it running thanks again for the help. I did manage to get one more hour in on it and got the engine blocked up and crossmember loosened all the way looks like I will have enough room to remove the oil pan now just have to get the steering out of the way to drop the pan down it has a five speed so the bell housing may be a little bigger could not fit a 2x4 between the motor mounts but could fit 1x4. I'll try the wanted on here and Ted thanks

Pulled the oil pump spindal gear has a few teeth that are a little beat up. Oil pump gear on crankshaft is pretty bad it has grooves on the ends of the teeth like it has made its own slot through the middle of the teeth on the gear the gear is really worn down or it has to be the wrong gear it is definitely in bad shape sharp as a razor tried to see if it was loose at all and got cut like a pig that gear has to be the problem. When I drained the oil it definitely had some water in it f*** looked grey not dirty should have inspected it better when I poured the oil out of the oil pump there was small flakes I could see with a flashlight. the pumps body had grooves in it so at this point I can't decide what do I don't wand to spend money on a new pump spindal gear and oil pump crank gear then find out this motor is f*****. I'm pretty pissed off the guy I bought the car from said he went through the motor and he said all was good told me the carbs were the problem I believed him carma is a motherf***** and it can be hardcore. I've tried to find part numbers but all I can find is back to 79 200sx that's what I ordered the woodruff keys for I think they might be wrong looks like they are for a napz? I'm just trying to find the part numbers for this l20b having trouble thanks again for the help I'm going to pull the oil pan before I order any more parts.

Hmmm I don't remember writing that my cam cover was off every time I was trying to diagnose it did not mean to say that if I did 2 turns of crank and #1 is at tdc cam lobes 10 and 2 on #1 cylinder. As far as I've figured everything with cam and crank are good my only problem is 1/3 of a turn of the distributor for 2 turns of the crank

That is correct Datzenmike. Racerx I did mark crank pully with steel marker. Thanks

Cam on #1 lobes rabbit eared 10 and 2 hard to tell exactly but spindal moves up and down 1/8" to 3/16"