Grimlid

Hey Guys, Doing my first tranny swap (no surprise there lol) . I want to have everyhting needed . I bought a 5 spd out of a 260z which is likely a 280 trans since 260 never had one stock. I cant find a single # on it outside the clutch fan. I am planning to buy the mounts off techno toy tuning https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/510/datsun-510-universal-transmission-mount it looks decent and Im gonna grab the poly mount also . I like that they allow for the exhaust channel space. Has anyone used this before? I saw another on Zcardepot https://zcardepot.com/collections/transmission/products/transmission-mount-bracket-510-68-73?_pos=1&_sid=8ed6b89b3&_ss=r&variant=31285416067185 it seem s abit less sweet but its only 40$ I may buy it in case and sell if not needed. Few questions if anyone used these or was able to modify the stock 510 or z tranny mounts? Second where the F__K are the serial or model #s on a z tranny? Ive cleaned all the gunk and found nothing. Im hopeful its not a truck tranny but either way I feel like I should have found a serial # somewhere. I found a 15 year old thread that stated no numbers in a z tranny but people were arguing the issue and I cant find the thread again. Any help is appreciated. Im asuming the clutch slave and starter will all be Z standard also since the Rockauto shows only one for all years and models (except ZX I think)....

Thanks, First Ive heard of recurve but IM putting money into the motor now and possibly the head also if I can get a knowledgable machine shop. Like you say Im currently running 2" exhaust (upping to 2.5" next) . heat shield is in the mail. I was planning just to use a matchbox dizzy or other electronic ditributor. I havent heard of recurve and will spend some time with that thanks. The Porting may also come now but Im thinking it will wind up waiting for awhile since everyone I talk to is so busy and wants my motor in and out , I finally found a recommended guy in Mission BC who is willing to spend some time with me so I will see waht I can work out with him on the rebuild.

Thanks Mike. Sounds like good advice. Im in for the weber dcoe now . no turning back ....

Im still interested to hear what people think but I bought the Weber set based on the idea that the only carb set up guys I know are familiar with weber (they have already serviced my weber) but unknown if they have knowlege or parts for dellorto which are likely more obscure.... Though Ive already heard from a friend that Dellorto are a superior carb....

Seeking an experienced opinion of which is superior: Dellorto DLHA 40 vs Webber Dcoe 40 (Made in Spain). Price is similar including manifold and linkages but I need to set up my own Choke on either. I hadnt really heard of Dellorto previously Im interested if anyone has an opionion of either. I know alot of people will talk me out of dual side draft but im committed to the build that way and Im also oversizing my exhaust to 2 or 2.5 and adding a 5speed as well as getting as much performance upgrade on the rebuild of the L20b as I can talk my mechanic into providing..... As a side note edit; a few weeks ago on a whim I picked up a set of SU Solex 1.5" bore complete with heat shield and manifold and jetted for an L20B but I'm told these are a waste of time and money (I got them for 200$ and I was told it was a waste of money) so Im likley not gonna bother using them unless someone has a different review in favour perhaps..... Thanks guys

Thanks I appreciate the insght on the 40 vs 44. I think Its an opinion ive heard before.... I know \byron a bit i tried emailing him but hes been busy I guess.. My mechanic is super busy and focusses mainly on z models (its the z shop ) Hes gonna rebuild my l20b with a bunch of components he put aside. He told me to pick a carb set and go with it so thats what Im doing basically seeking more assitance when google doesnt have an answer.

Setting up to rebuild my l20b with a mid level perfromance rebuild. nothing too heavy and obviously running on high octane pump gas but im spending a few grand at leaset though im kinda at the mercy of my mechanic.... Found a set of 40 dcoe in good condition. I had beenthinking 45s but is 40 dcoe big enough ? Im guessing yes but would like the opinion of someone whos run these or been around longer than me. I dont want undersize it but also dont want to be wasting unburnt fuel and have a shitty mix that cant be consumed..... a lot mixed arguments with no real conclusions on line and didnt see any datsun owners saying much. 5mm is a lot when I consider its a circle circumfrence so its exponentially larger.... Thanks for any feed back Russ Grimlid

Thanks Mike. I've been asking around for 5 plus years and you are the First to finally answer that one. Muchn appreciated

thats a definite classic whish I had seen the original to my car. The guy was a mechanic at the city works and was able to bend the exhaust so he did and threw a resonator on it. I have to change it when I finish the swap its so obnoxious. loud pipes save lives but hurt kids ears.. so 73 was first year metric. Mine is in miles its a 72. I was told also my car may be American made? the heater core I bought for it didn't fit right and my buddy said it was because the heater was for a Canadian and the car is American. I was assuming that was why the speedo is in miles . he managed to get the heater to work but not with the linkages at the controls. I have to reach and manually open the valve under the dash. doesnt work worth a shit anyways. Can anyone tell a way to know the difference between the american and canadian vehicles or is this whole theory half cooked. All I know is the heater box said 72 510 and the fit up of the pipes was incorrect. I was under the impression from when i had my 510s in high school that they were made in mexico and america no one ever mentioned made in canada....

Ive had multiple old cars (Im mid 50s) and know all about the odo rollover.....honestly this was a barn find in Williams lake. The guy I bought it off worked for the city of Williams Lake. He watched the car sit since 1978 in a barn off the side of a rural road. It sat in full sunlight all day every day with no barn door. The front windshield was completely opaque from uv damage and the hood and roof had completely ruined paint from wind and uv damage. the car litterally sat for nearly 35 years exposed to sun and light rain and snow but only in the front half of the car. The guy (Mike is his name) tried to buy the car countless times the woman who owned it always refused as she was going to fix it. It was on the reserve apparently and he had friends there. She passed away in 2012 (or something) and he bought the car off her kids for a low price. He repainted it and tuned it up sold it to me (in 2015) after he fell in love with a mustang or something. He sold it me on the promise I never "cut it up". I had to race 2 other guys to get there with the money. we both believe it is 33k miles. the interior was perfect except for the cardboard and the c pillars. The seats werent even cracked. Ive put 3k on it since I bought and my kids and I have done more damage because everything is so fragile from age. (seats are cracking now)i removed the original shocks (tt3 replace) and steering wheel (momo clone) though Mike removed the muffler and ran a straight pipe. break, clutch and accelerator are clean Its genuine 33k with basically zero rust. the Williams lake dust under the thing is like concrete though. Loooong story but its a lot km to account for lol. My dream is to hand it over to my son when Im too old to enjoy it.

Thanks. I think I've heard it enough to actually believe it lol. I am likely to port the head and do some cam work but my mechanic is already asking to just do a simple rebuild because he is super busy. May have to hold the whole project oover if I can't convince him to do what I'm looking for. Glad my l16 has only 33000 miles original

Thanks for all the info and your frankness. I never considered the lack of a choke. Like you say I'm probably gonna mount the downdraft just because it's there and basically free. I have to find some numbers on the one that came with it. Thanks again you sure know a lot about these units.

Thanks I know Byron he lives near me . I tried bugging him before I posted lol he was too busy i guess

Im looking at buying a new carb set up for the L20b I'm having rebuilt. I have a chance to buy a Hitachi su carb set similar to the one listed in this thread https://ratsun.net/topic/79997-l20b-carburetor/ they are set up for an 1600 sss but I can get them jetted by Paul Silva. I feel confident they will fit since I don't have a brake booster (though if i could iI sure would....) I also found a set of Yamaha bike carbs with an intake manifold listed on ratsun classified https://ratsun.net/classifieds/item/1908-fs-yamaha-r1-carb-setup/ which looks similar to Datzemikes bike carb set up. (listed in the above thread and a few other pics Mike has posted (not sure if he still run these though). I could also buy a dcoe weber set up currently but obviously convenience and costly go together. Realistically They are more or less plug and play the dcoe setup would likely save all the trouble the other 2 set ups will present (I assume). All the weber will need is a tune up and jet kit. though hypothetically the other 2 sets might go just as easy....Pierce Manifolds I heard these are made in 'China though (unconfirmed) https://www.piercemanifolds.com/Datsun_510_L_Series_Weber_Conversion_K637_45_p/k637-45.htm If Datzenmike is reading this ""How complicated was your bike carb set up to install and tune?" I have some good people to help make up for my inadequacies. Im actually a high btu gas fitter so I understand the theory behind all this but my experience is with boilers and gas appliances' and only stationary equipment run in controlled environments. At any rate what would you go guys go with : Hitachi su style dual carb set (looks new nearly, super old school cool but could be a can of problems to set up due to unknowns) 750 plus shipping weber dcoe dual carb set (new and expensive but simple and effective) from Pierce Manifilds 2 grand plus yamaha bike carb set with manifold (reconditioned but no user manual available). these look uber cool and I love the sound they make when running but could also present a lot of issues. you are the only human I am aware of running them on anything other than a bike. 500 USD plus shipping I also have the option to set it up with the big old truck carburetor that came with it. Tycot1 said it ran fine for him before he installed his KA . he gave me the old carb when he sold me his back up stock of l20 and l18 while cleaning out his shop. 300 cash installed and rebuilt Something other completely!!!???? Thanks in advance for reading this far if you were able to and I owe you one if you can share your experience on this subject its a pretty major decision in my build. Thanks again, Russ Grimlid × Your previous content has been restored. Clear editor

Thanks Stoffregen, Also thanks for the hook up on the OER carbs that's a pretty interesting site to add to the options list. Im probably gonna make a separate thread for carburetor opinions. Im likely going to go with dual side draft weber for ease of about everything (I found multiple kits online which have everything including the manifold for around 1500$ plus shipping. I also located a guy selling a used set of SU carbs and manifold (half the price) but carbs would at least need to be jetted if not rebuilt (they are off a 1600 0r 18000 sss (he wasn't sure which)) but from what I'M hearing the SU carb will never get what a weber can and definitely not come close to a mikuni or some of the other higher end units. Some people go as far as saying the SU is useless? I've only ever had a 32/26 weber since I bought my car with the kit and had it jetted and cleaned up by Paul Silva 5 years ago. The dual SU carbs look so cool though its tough not to like the appearance for me.....but if the performance is that bad obviously why bother.