surewood

I did it. The needle valve was not in properly. All good now. no leaks. We will see how long I go this time...

The fuel level is right at the center dot in the glass, until I start it up. it begins to fill up, the engine starts gurglling, then gas comes out of the accelerator pump. This all began with the new pump, so that is why I assumed it's pressure was too high. I'll look into how to check the float valve. Are there links to a good tutorial on this? I have never worked on carburetors before.

It seemed like the carb was flooding. I'll confirm in the morning. If it is the new pump causing this, what is the ideal pump to get?

After yet another fuel filter crapped out, I read on a few posts here that the pumps at O'reilly Auto Parts are no good. So, I came across a Facet PRO60SV 32 GAL PER HOUR 3.5 PSI. I hooked it up, and everything felt and sounded great. The next day, it dieseled when I shut it off after driving 5 miles, then began idling poorly at my next trip. I got home and discovered a gas leak out of the carburetor accelerator pump. The boot on it was cracked and gas was squirting out. I see accelerator pumps in stock at Autozone, but was wondering if they will do the job. Well, mainly, I'm wondering if this pump is too strong and responsible for this leak and future leaks. Fun times.

Took the tank off and discovered about 2 cups of junk. After I cleaned it all out and fired it up, it died again. I checked the fuel pump, and it seemed to be working at half power. It was just spurting out fuel at half the usual rate. Replaced the fuel pump, and so far so good. I've been all over the city today and drove for 2 hours with no problems. So I think it was the junk in the tank this entire time. It would run for 30 minutes, suck up the junk and stall, then after a while all the junk would fall out and I could start it again. This strain is what made the fuel pump start to crap out. At least that is what I'm hoping.

fuel filter is fine. no clogs. Just put a new one on the other day. The old one had some rust sediment in the bottom, but wasn't real bad and flowed when I blew on it. My mechanic seems to think the screen or filter in the tank is building up junk till it clogs up but then the junk falls off while the truck is "cooling down".

Can't say for sure. It did it with a 3/4 full tank last week. It seems to crap out every time from driving for 20 minutes or parked running for 40 minutes. I would go fill the tank right now to see, but have plans to take the tank off at the shop tomorrow and examine it.

While the truck will not start this time, I took off the out line from the fuel pump. There is no gas pumping out. It's making sound like it's working, but nothing comes out. I'm beginning to think I have junk in my fuel tank that gets clogged up after running a while. Tomorrow I will hopefully get the fuel tank off and checked out. I think every time I have checked this, releasing the pressure or with enough time, the clog goes away and it works.

The truck just died again down the road to work, which is only a couple miles. I didn't hear the fuel pump making noise. I made a jumper for the fuel pump relay and the fuel pump started working again. This is the 2nd fuel pump relay I've tried. Do I keep buying the wrong part? Or another bad relay? It's the duralast relay from autozone, part #20550

I just checked the fuel pump again while it wouldn't start up. I took the hose off the out line of the pump and had my wife turn the key. It started right up and the pump was pumping out gas properly. It wouldn't start before, unhooking the gas line seemed to make it start up and run off the remaining gas in the line.

It took about 45 minutes to finally sputter out in my driveway today. The choke plate seemed partially closed while running. I have spark from the coils. I don't see any gas going in while I try to start it. EDIT: the choke plate is fully open after 10 minutes

After I thought the problem was fixed with the new Fuel Pump Relay, I put in new plugs, cables, distributer, and rotor. It's been running nice and smooth. I did not replace the coils. I have been reading about Ignition Control Module heating up and causing a similar issue. Autozone has the Duralast listed for $250 or Proform for $22. That is quite a difference.

I had my mechanic instal a new speedometer cable put in before this started. Everything runs great right up till it dies. What information should I try to round up to get a better opinion? I'll look into seeing what the choke is doing with the air cleaner off.

I have a 1984 2.4 720. I've been reading all the posts here for days, and the problem still happens. I replaced the fuel pump relay 2 times thinking I got a bad part. I also soldered the original as I read on here. I replaced the fuel pump and the filter 2 times. I did a tuneup as well. I'll drive for 20 to 30 minutes, then the truck stalls while cruising down the road. Usually it will restart, but if I give it any gas it stalls. It seems like it is not getting enough gas causing it to stall. I can turn the key to hear the fuel pump, so I know the fuel pump is working. It was also dieseling when I turned the truck off before this problem began, may not be related. The good news is that I can finally create the problem by having my truck run in the driveway for 30 minutes till it stalls and will not restart. Re-creating the issue is way better than calling my mechanic while dead on the side of the road. The engine just turns and turns but does not fully start up till the truck cools off, either 30 more minutes or many hours later. Sometimes it will start, but if I give it any gas, it stalls. Any advice on other parts and money to throw at this little monster?