ToxicDepression

yes, I believe they gave me the wrong one

I would check to make sure all of your cylinders are getting a good spark, Id check the spark plug wires and distributor. are your spark plug wires on the correct plugs? Is your timing on point? also, Is there anything that could interrupt the flow of exhaust in your exhaust pipes?

no its jumping from 1200 rpms to about 2200 rpms when its warmed up, BUT when I put the Clutch in, It will steady out... Im just trying to figure out why my clutch has a role in changing the rpms while in neutral.

so I got everything wired and put together but I believe I have the wrong fuel gauge, does anyone know what resistance I will need on the fuel gauge ( or type of gauge)

what cables are you referring to exactly, Im not too familiar with this carb just yet.

Update! solved this issue, the bottom cover to the steering wheel came loose and pulled on the ignition wire. I made sure all the wires were snug and put the cover back on good and BOOM,,, Problem solved. thanks for the help

1984 Nissan 720 4X4 manual transmission with Hitachi carb, Z24 engine

its a 1984 4X4, with the z24 engine

when its cold than it will idle at around 1200 rpms, but when it warms up to operating temperature, it will "buggle" and almost die down to 200 and jump to about 2000 then slowly go back down to 200. BUT... whenever I step on the clutch then the idle will even out at 2100 rpms and be steady. W......T.......F....?????????? doesn't make any sense. yeah i would understand if it was in gear but its always in neutral. (yes it does happen in gear as well) any ideas

so, I decided to get a new fuel gauge and decided to rewire it, ( the previous owner thought that they were an electrician and completely messed with the wiring) I am going to drop the fuel tank and rewire the fuel sending unit and the fuel pump, which leads me to this question.... Does any one know if there are common problems with the fuel sending unit going out, or are they pretty durable? the reason I am not fixing the old one is because the previous owner also screwed with the wiring inside the engine as well. and if anyone has a wiring diagram for the sending unit and pump to gauge and power please let me know,, Thanks ToxicDepression

I just took my truck to go visit my aunt and when I walked back out then I had to jumpstart it and finally got it going. I sat there for about less than two minutes before I took off.. after I drove about 50 feet than it died and didnt want to start again. ( cant push start it because that rear wheels tighten up and needs to be put in 4wheel drive to loosen,,, another problem; another time) it has gas, doesnt die because of battery, when Im driving then the rpms will go from 2000 to 0 almost instantly, I tried to put it in second while its still moving and jump it that way but didnt want to start.. (yes I know how to push start a manual) its almost like the gas is cut off completely, Ive noticed that if the clutch is in then the rpms will increase and when its off it will drop about 300 rpms. the next morning I had it towed to my house and jump started it and it ran longer and didnt die on me. it is also really cold when it has a hard time; Obviously.... Is it electric choke?, I believe its the Z24 engine. would cleaning the carb and putting new spark plugs solve the issue/ has anyone else had this happen to them.

Manual locking hubs

@lockleaf, no if it just hasnt been ran in a while(give or take two days) than I will need to either back up about 25 feet or put it into 4-wheel drive in order to have it gain momentum to "free" up then i can take it out of 4-wheel drive.... @STOFFREGEN MOTORSPORTS, yes when i bleed the lines it was mainly to check and see if there was fluid going through it or not. but yes there was indeed fluid that bleed freely..... I will see if i can remove the front drive shaft to see if that fixes the problem...

thats what im trying to figure out, maybe something is shot and will spin when off the ground, but when weight is applied maybe it will "kink" and lock up....... when it is stuck then i cant push it forward but itll push backwards with no problem....... I hate this problem because im so confused....

yes I have jacked the front tire up and it will spin by hand. i have only had the tires re aligned, they said that they put these "tab things" (cant remember what the name is for them) on because the camber was so bad. I tried to bleed the breaks, didnt work... and also checked the rotors and break pads and they are still good. could something be shot and cause the problems with the ball joints or tie rods? not sure if this will help but i noticed that the e-brake doesn't work, but thats not on the front that i can see of. I just bought the truck not too long ago and have slowly been working on the carb but haven't really done anything to the breaks or tires except the re alignment, little bit of bleeding the lines, and new tires. I dont know much on the suspension/breaking/tie rods, etc... area. im hoping it could be a bad part that I can replace.