Noflers

Sand, strip, grind. Sand, strip, grind, pound, fill. ;)

If at all possible, save that little plastic adjuster nut at the end. I had one strip out once, luckily I had a spare...

It should be stamped into the metal itself. Underneath the emissions sticker (if you still have that),just to the right of the hood latch on the core support. If you have the sticker but don't want to remove it you can feel the underside to see if you can make out what the code is. Hard to see in my photo, but it's there. "831". I'm only able to make out the 3 and the 1 from the bottom side of mine.

For anyone looking, Zcar Depot sells oem rear control arm rubber bushings for the 510 now. Just ordered a set through their EBay store, $85 bucks or so shipped. Sure glad I didn't settle on poly back when I first started looking.

Goof off works well too. I just let it saturate a rear door weather strip, came back as hour later and the seal came out all in one piece and left almost no adhesive behind.

Imgur is my favorite. Just use the BBCode link to post the pictures.

Move those up the side of the body some and they'll eliminate the supersonic line just fine.

Looks like new old car company out of Australia has new sill moldings.along with a few other hard to find parts.

Ohhh yeah. Haha. I'll pm you.

You still have front strut tower tops? Yes, the actual sheet metal. Lol I need a pair.

I like the scoops, but like someone else mentioned, we could cut a hole in the duct ourselves to make it functional. What would an ABS option cost?

Needs to make these photos work.

+1 on the TTT crossmember. I'm using it, works great.

These are the adjustable dampening ones. The non-adjustable ones are even cheaper. You'd just need tophats and springs.

Repops would be awesome. Too bad they aren't metal like the wagon taillight housings.