SPECTRE

I took the advice of keeping the stock wheels until I modify the suspension/fenders. I ordered a $45 185/70r13 tire from Walmart (free shipping on tires? Whaaaat) and test fit it front and back. Fits good, probably could have gone even wider on the back but I think I reached the limits for cheap 13 inch tires. Thanks for the help guys.

I'm not against rolling the fenders! I would like to do that in the future to get wider tires on for sure, but for the moment I just need to get the car from my friend's place to my place, so I need new tires, and I was thinking maybe I could get new larger wheels at the same time. Okay so a 14x7 with 0 offset with the right tires will be good all around? or will it rub on the fender lips in the rear? Also, sick ride datsunfreak! And thanks to everyone for all the help and input so far.

I live in the middle of BF nowhere in upper peninsula Michigan, but I do keep my eyes out for local stuff.

Would these fit? These are the widest I've been able to find so far with what seems to be a suitable offset? 14x6 with 4" backspacing/+12mm offset. https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/wvi-12-460404/overview/ If anyone has links for wider 14" or 15" wheels with appropriate offset I would appreciate them.

Yep, changing the gear ratio for the speedometer is what I meant but like Dguy said it's easy to just do the mental math, that's what I do when I put snow tires on my other vehicle. I'm looking at used and remaned 280ZX wheels but they seem to cost ~$110-$140 per wheel, I'm hoping to spend ~$50-$85 each for new steel wheels. So, a 14x6.5 or 15x6.5 with around +10mm offset would fit, unfortunately I'm not finding basic steel wheels with these measurements. Are you sure? I have not been able to find it. http://www.bassettwheel.com/14x7_14x8_dhole.html14x7 goes up to 4" backspacing, which according to their helpful chart is a 0 offset. The 14x8 goes up to 5" offset which is +12mm offset, but that would not fit, right?

The speedometer can be adjusted, I check the after market speedometer against a gps. I'm fine with the tire diameter staying the same, or increasing if it fits, but what I am really after is a wider tire. So how wide can a 14" and 15" wheel be without risking bumping the fender or rubbing suspension? It sounds like 14x7" with a -10mm offset is too wide? I have found basic steelies that I like that are: 15x6 +35mm 15x6 +41mm 15x6 +45mm 15x5.5 +46mm 14x5.5 +35mm 14x5.5 +38mm 14x7 -10mm According to this site the 280ZX stock had 14 and 15x6.5 wheels with 0 offset. https://www.wheel-size.com/size/nissan/280zx/1979/with a 205/60R15, which sounds like too wide of a tire for the '74 B210, or a 195/70R14.

I have a stock '74 B210 sitting at my friend's place, the tires are shot and bald and the wheels are rusty as hell. I need to put new tires on it to drive it to my place and thought I might as well get some new cheap wheels while I'm at it. I plan to upgrade the brakes and suspension after I get it to my place. I have seen people on the forums recommend 280ZX strut and brake conversions, and I have also heard of using Toyota 4Runner/4x4 S12+8 or S12W calipers on Datsuns. (Do those Toyota calipers bolt on directly to the stock '74 B210 front suspension?) What's the largest size and what offset wheels will fit on the stock suspension without requiring fender rolling or spacers, and also accommodate upgraded brakes and suspension in the future? And what size tires? I was looking at Aero and Bassett wheels, cheap steelies that I think don't look half bad, but they only come in negative offsets, and 7" is as skinny as they come. Would any of them fit? https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/aero-race-wheels?N=4294920860%2B401011%2B4294941141&SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/bassett-racing-wheel?N=4294920860%2B4294941141%2B401801&SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending The current tires are 155/80R13. They are comically skinny and I would like to go as wide as possible for traction and stopping power. Rusty wheel Any input is appreciated, thanks!

Cool, thanks http://community.ratsun.net/classifieds/item/7527-wtb-1974-b210-speedometer-or-instrument-panel-cluster/

I took it apart further and got inside it. I think the plastic gear is just for the odometer. The shaft that connects the needle on the face of the gauge was bent at the tip. I tried to bend it back and it broke the tip off. It looks like the needle is driven by a magnet rather than a gear. I put it back together and it spins but it's completely inaccurate. I guess I'll have to get an aftermarket gauge. Anyone know the specification to look for? Like 60 MPH = XXXX RPM or something

Here we go, I worked it back out and got a picture of the screw and gear. So in the very first picture in the thread you can see the socket has kind of a flange where it meets the back of the instrument panel, but it doesn't sit flush, and I'm wondering if it's supposed to.

I replaced the whole cable and sheath. The inner cable fits inside the speedometer socket good, and I tested the speedometer panel by inserting the back end of a screw extractor bit into it and turning it with vice grips. The needle seemed to spin okay. Inside the back of the speedometer, on the bottom, is a long plastic gear. Inside the socket that the cable fits into is a screw. The cable turns the screw, which turns the plastic gear, which spins the needle. I'm trying to figure out if the socket is seated properly with the screw fitting in the gear, because if it's not the screw will strip the plastic gear when the transmission engages it. Here's a couple more pictures to show what I'm trying to get seated.

I replaced the speedometer cable and the hand on the dial spun erratically, I took the instrument panel out and saw that the back of the dial where the cable's needle inserts in loose. I fit in in and it spins the hand when I turn it manually, but I'm not sure if the socket that the cable's needle fits into is seated properly. You can see in the picture below that it is not sitting flush. I can fit one side in deeper but the other side will not go in and I don't want to break anything forcing it. Once it's in where it's supposed to be I'll glue it down. Is it supposed to look like this or is it supposed to seat deeper with he lip flush to the back of the instrument panel?

No worries! Thanks Dguy210. I have the engine pulled on my Subaru right now so I haven't had time to dig into the Datsun's carb yet anyway.

Hey Dguy210! Just the guy I was hoping to see. If you could take pictures of any of the following I would greatly appreciate it: 1) Diagrams of components and routing for emissions/fuel system(where it connects to the carb)/air cleaner/carb itself 2) Tune up procedures for those systems 3) Electrical diagrams and routing for those systems that regulate air and fuel valves/solenoids around the carb. Sorry to bother you while you're busy, no rush, and thank you.

I'm currently looking for a service manual for a the '74 B210. So far the closest I've found is for a '76 which is helpful but the hoses and wires that run to and from the carburetor, air cleaner, etc, are not the same. I've sent a PM to Dguy210. http://www.datsun510.com/is down until at least July, not sure if they have the manuals there. Someone told me I would find it at http://datsun1200.com but I don't see a manual for an A13 there. Anyway, I have found that a hoses from the air cleaner are not connected to anything. I don't see anything for them to connect to either, except one hose behind the carb is connected in a loop which may not be correct. So I would like to find a manual to figure out the correct hose routing. There are also a couple wires that are not connected to anything. There are also 3 bolt holes around the sidewall of the air cleaner that are open and I'm guessing they should be sealed off. Things I've tried so far: 1) Adjust idle and mixture screws. 2) Spray carb cleaner everywhere I can fit the little red straw; in the idle aND mixture screw holes, in the 2 bolt holes under the porthole that shows the fuel level inside the carb, in the carb inlet. 3) Replace stove pipe hose, replace deteriorating crankcase breather hoses, replace fuel line from pump to carb. 4) Inspect porthole in the carb that shows fuel level, it is a bit over half full. 5) Take a block of wood and hit it with a hammer on the carb inlet. I have the idle and mixture screws so loose that I'm worries they will fall out while I'm driving. Sooo.. I'm going to keep reading through the other thread on carb troubleshooting for stalling, but I think the most likely suspect currently is the misrouted/disconnected hoses and wires ,so if anyone can point me toward a '74 B210 service manual I would appreciate it.