GoonLuv

I will take all of that into consideration when I start work on the head. I am using the original 510 cast manifold now. I understand its as good as headers until I get into the upper limits of whats possible with an L series. My ultimate plan is to use the U67 with a freshly rebuilt Z22 block that I have. Unfortunately the car needs to remain drive-able while the work is done hence swapping the A87 onto the L20b.

Thanks again Mike for the great advice. I got a long pry bar and a chunk of 2x4 pried up on the sprocket gently and it popped right on. Got everything reassembled and it’s running great. Now I can get the U67 upgraded with a new cam and some porting.

Thanks Mike. I’m going to try this in the morning.

Ratsun gurus I need you wisdom again. I am in the process of changing from a U67 head to an A87 closed chamber head and have run into a roadblock. When attempting to install the cam gear i am coming up short. The timing chain will not allow the cam gear to go high enough to seat it on the cam. Its off by about 1/8th of an inch or half the width of the dowel on the end of the cam. I installed the cam tensioner retainer tool before removing the sprocket from the U67. Hopefully that didnt pop out, looking down inside the timing cover it does not appear that it did. I am at a loss. To my knowledge both heads are stock thickness. The only thing I can think of is the head gasket is too thick? It came out of DNJ Gasket Set FGS6033 Thank you in advance for any wisdom you can share.

Thanks for the replies guys. Other than Rockauto I am not sure where to look for these. Rockauto only has KYB Excel-G's. Im sure those are probably fine I mostly drive around town with the occasional spirited back roads driving.

What's everyone using for strut inserts in 280ZX struts when fitted to a 510? Im using T3 weld on coil overs if that makes a difference.

The Audi/VW 1.8t was longitudinally mounted in the Passats and A4s in the early 2000's. I know its not a new modern motor but they have great aftermarket support can make tons of power and there is at least 1 company making an adapter to mate it to a Toyota (I think) 5 speed.

Got her running!!! I ended up using a 120amp circuit breaker in place of the fuseable link. Couldn’t find anything else at the local auto parts store. I’ll probably end up moving that to the main power feed to the alternator and ordering a 60amp maxi fuse to put in place of the fuseable link. That plus the ground wires was the solution. Thanks For your help guys!!

The fuseable link is not Nissan so I’m not sure if the color codes match. It is a brown almost black wire though. The writing on it says 2.0 30mm fuseable link.

Retested the voltage at fuse box main power lead and was only getting 7v. Bypassed the fuseable link and ran power directly to fuse box from the battery. Now getting 12v. Break lights and headlights have started working. So there probably was a ground issue. Still no dash lights or gauges and nothing happens when turning the key to on or start. I want to replace the fuseable link with a breaker style fuse. What amperage should I get?

Cleaned all engine bay grounds. Replaced main battery ground with new one and connected to block instead of head. Added new ground directly from battery to body. Still no change. No power to anything. Fuse box is still showing 12v. Not even the volt meter in the dash is working.

I think you guys are on the right track with the ground. if the ground from the engine to the body and starter to body are bad then there is no path for all the other grounds to reach the battery.

Yes when we jumped directly to the fuse box from the battery we got 12v at the fuse box. I did look at the back and everything looks fine there.

Thanks for the reply Mike. Some very good info. Couple things I will check this weekend. We did try running power direclty from the battery to the fuse boxes main feed and still get nothing. The fuse box is powered but nothing works regardless of the key position. Not even break lights. I will definitely be checking grounds. Main battery ground connect to the lug on the head. Then there is a ground to body at the back of the engine using one of the valve cover bolts. There is a third ground that goes from the starter to the inner fender. This one looks suspect to me. There is some rust around the connection where the bolt goes through the inner fender. I will be replacing both the ground from the valve cover and the starter with new ones this weekend. Thanks everyone for your help. This was a very frustrating day to say the least. Is it really possible that the grounds could be causing this? Things like the tail lights and blinkers have their own grounds to the body.

I'm stumped and am hoping the Ratsun community can help. I have a 72 510 wagon that I rewired 5 years ago with an American Autowire Power Plus 20 510008. Up until today things have been great. For reasons that am seriously questioning at this point I decided to install an electric fuel pump. I have dual Weber DCOE 40's so I purchased the pump I saw recommended the most, a Carter P4070 and hooked it up the the fuel pump circuit that was part of the Power Plus 20. At this point things were still fine. I powered on the pump by switching the ignition to the on position. The pump came on and the system pressurized. I ended up cycling the pump several times because of fuel leaks. Once I got everything tight and no more fuel leaks I tried to start it. This is when things went wrong. The starter clunked once like the battery was dead. I figured I had drained it while testing. I hooked up my battery jumper and tried the key.... Nothig. Not even a clunk. No lights, no gauges, no blinkers, no break lights, nothing. And this is where I am stumped. The only thing that has changed was adding the fuel pump. Things I have tried. Checked the fuseable link. its fine Bypassed the fuseable ink still nothing Checked the battery 12.48v Checked for power at the starter. 12.48v Checked for power at the fuse box on one of the unused circuits like cigarette lighter and clock. Both of which should be hot even with the key off. 12.48v Checked all fuses in the fusebox and all are good. Bypassed the main power to the fusebox by running a wire directly to it from the battery. 12.48v and no change. Everything is still dead. I am out of ideas at this point. I have power to the fuse box but no power coming out. Things that should work regardless of the key position like break lights are dead. Hopefully one of you wise Ratsunites can help.