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Mad Dat

Member Since 15 Apr 2016
Offline Last Active Jan 14 2018 07:41 AM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: To keep or to bypass? 77 620 NLSV, with front disc swap.

26 April 2017 - 05:29 AM

Ok got the NLSV off an brakes working good.

So I took some pics an tried to make it simple if anybody else is wondering how to delete the NLSV.

First here's the valve an all its lines.


Next is me trying to explain where some of the lines go.

Here's what it should look like when u get the valve off.

Next is where one of the lines, (Red line) goes back to the front or from the fronts the NLSV. I'm not sure if it's going to the valve from the front or if its a return to the fronts from the NLSV.
I'm wondering if u can hook this line back together with the rears an keep the system all tied together for the whole safety side of it all where the two reservoirs actually feed both lines.
But I just deleted it an plugged the whole so now the fronts are separate from the rears.

I also wanted my brakes to be separate so I can install a Hydro E-brake. The rears have to be on there own system not tied in with the fronts. So removing the NLSV made this a little easier. You wouldn't have to remove the NLSV for an E-brake but u would have to do something with the front line that goes or comes from the NLSV.

So the following pics are for installing a Hydraulic E-brake in a datsun 620. This should be fairly general so u would be able to use this info on your own rig whatever it may be.

Ok I will start from the master cylinder aka: (MC)


I did use a proportioning valve but not sure if I rly needed it. It's simple an fun to use with the E-brake especially because u can make it more sensitive (more brake) an less sensitive (less brake).

Next is the e brake itself. It's actually rly simple to install. U take the line from the rear MC an go directly into your e-brake. Then from there goes directly into the rear line.


Now take the line an splice somewhere for the rears.
Like this


Ok now you should be able to delete the NLSV easy an know what to do.
You should also be able to install a Hydro E-brake with ease as well.

I know it wasn't super clear an I will answer questions but I'm sure y'all can figure it out from here.

In Topic: To keep or to bypass? 77 620 NLSV, with front disc swap.

21 April 2017 - 03:27 PM

I had 4 wheel discs on my 73 and did not use a proportioning valve. Truck had no NLSV. I used 15/16 master from 280 ZX

Right on. Thanks.

Ya Imma try an delete it but just not sure how. I looked at it this morning before work an was able to fallow the lines to it an from it easier than I thought. Think I just need a block or connector down there where the valve is at.

In Topic: To keep or to bypass? 77 620 NLSV, with front disc swap.

21 April 2017 - 11:43 AM

Tank the NLSV. This ain't a work truck.

10lb valves in the rear circuit. Swap to 2lbs when you convert to discs.

Word I like that idea. Imma try it out an see how it goes.

In Topic: To keep or to bypass? 77 620 NLSV, with front disc swap.

21 April 2017 - 08:42 AM

Ok your saying you would leave the NLSV an just add a 10lb pressure valve for the rear drums?

I installed a 2lb when trying to diagnose the problem an seem to help but barely. But there's too many things I need to straight out before trying again. Like the wrong rotors an such. That was prolly giving me alot of problems as they would just keep trying to re adjust themselves an not giving me any straight answers cuz I started off wrong lol. Also not bleeding the NLSV is prolly why I'm not getting any pressure.

So I need to get the parts on an then bleed everything correctly an possibly it will just work with the NLSV. Maybe add a residual pressure valve in there if seems to need it.

Is there a thread out there on how to disconnect the NLSV an keep most of the brake lines that you can?

In Topic: To keep or to bypass? 77 620 NLSV, with front disc swap.

21 April 2017 - 06:25 AM


Found some more info talking about the NLSV. I think I will just delete it an add my own proprtioning valve.