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Member Since 27 Oct 2007
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#1551108 My '76 710 Goon

Posted by LenRobertson on 12 March 2018 - 07:06 PM

Mike is Canadian. You have no excuse. 


I have a partial excuse. Although my dad was born in Missouri, when he was about 16 the family moved to Canada and he lived there until he was into his late 20s (then for some unknown reason most of them migrated to Spokane). So I may have a slight genetic imprint for being Canadian-like. Which I'm kind of proud of and explains some of my odder tendencies. :lol:



#1543218 What are you listening to???

Posted by LenRobertson on 31 January 2018 - 04:22 PM

So I'm watching Leo a few nights ago with a smile on my face because Leo is above all else fun and entertaining. My wife walks in and asks WTF?(although she doesn't use that sort of language). So I invite her to expand her musical horizons and restart the vid:



Vid finishes and she asks about the song. I say something about Adele cover and get a blank look. So I search up the original Adele song and cheesy "Modern Romances" vid and play that (and I even like Adele's voice although her style isn't my fav. I'm thinking she will get a lot better with time). Anyway, my wife says "That was MUCH BETTER." I can only reply it depends on your definition of "better".


Occasionally I will play something Karen says she likes. But usually her tone of voice leads me to suspect she is trying to be polite. More often she comments on my music with "that was WEIRD" which I take as a compliment.



#1540358 I'm Definitely in the South Now

Posted by LenRobertson on 15 January 2018 - 07:58 PM

I ended up living in northern VA in the late 1970s. Being from Washington state, when I first saw Lee-Jackson Day on a calendar my eyebrows went up a bit. I'm mildly surprised it is still on the calendars but VA is noted for being really big on history. The joke is "How many Virginians does it take to change a light bulb?" -

"Three. One to change the bulb and two to talk about the glories of the departed bulb."


I liked living there except for the hideous humidity in the summer. I was living in a single-wide trailer with no air conditioning. I hope you fare better in your accommodations. I remember having tools rust even when kept indoors if they weren't oiled. The lightening bugs in the summer almost make up for the humidity - almost.


My wife and I met at the horse farm in VA where we were working. She was born and raised in Leesburg, VA. She has stuck with me all these years which still puzzles and amazes me. Her moving from a beautiful state like VA to desolate eastern WA is something I don't understand quite. I was born here so desolate is what I'm comfortable with. Too many trees make me nervous!



#1535177 A Series engine length?

Posted by LenRobertson on 17 December 2017 - 03:57 PM

I measured the length of the A14 in my '77 F10. Although this is a front wheel drive model and the engine is transverse, as far as I know it uses the same A-series as the older RWD cars.


Anyway, the length from the rear face of the block to the front pulleys is approx. 19 1/2" to 20". The F10 doesn't use fan blades mounted on the water pump, it has an electric fan on the radiator, so this length is about to the front of the water pump shaft. Fan blades would add some length. But you may be able to do something with a remote radiator and electric fan.










#1526671 How do I get to those motherf*cking nuts to get the g*d-d*mned motherf*cking...

Posted by LenRobertson on 01 November 2017 - 08:13 AM

And please let us know what size the carb nuts actually are. I checked the ones on my F10 (with A14 engine) and they are 10mm. L-series are 12mm (or all the ones I've worked on). But maybe some A-series engines used 12mm. I'm curious.


In my opinion doing the nuts on an A-series (at least a smog control version) are much worse than an L-series since there is less room for fingers.. And L-series are really miserable. My hope is I'll never again need to install a carb on an A-series.







#1518925 fuel/temp gage volt. regulator

Posted by LenRobertson on 22 September 2017 - 01:52 PM

There may be something in this thread that will help (or confuse) you:


This is mostly dealing with 510 instrument voltage regulator so your later 720 regulator location may be totally different.I suppose Nissan may have even gone to some type of solid state regulator by then.In post #14 of the thread, I have a link to a Dropbox page with pics of a 510 gauge cluster and regulator.


If the back of your 720 dash looks like the 510 one, be careful which screws you remove to withdraw the gauge cluster. On a 510, it is the 3 outer screws. The four in the center of the board hold the legs that support the gauges and you don't want to remove those.



#1517687 Need to upgrade calipers and on '71 510 wagon

Posted by LenRobertson on 16 September 2017 - 02:02 PM

Post #7 here has pics of what datzenmike is talking about:


The first pic shows a 280ZX strut with the lower spring perch still on it. This needs to be cut away just above the weld with a cutoff wheel or even hacksaw, being careful not to cut into the strut tube. The second pic shows the strut with the perch cut off and the weld ground down smooth. Then the lower spring perch is cut off your stock 510 strut and slipped onto the 280ZX strut tube, with the split collar in the last pic below the 510 perch to support it. It is commonly done to cut about a half a coil out of the stock 510 spring to make it stiffer and lower.


Note that 280ZX (or the years Maxima struts datzenmike mentions) not 280Z are what you need. Hopefully you can find a pair there in Illinois at a wrecking yard or maybe a wrecked ZX on Craiglist. A pair of struts with hubs and rotors will be heavy to ship if you can't find any locally.


If there is anything not clear about the procedure, we can give more information.



#1512643 1976 Datsun 620 stock Tachometer disconnected.

Posted by LenRobertson on 25 August 2017 - 08:38 PM

taking my cable off the battery terminal for long term parking sure beats not having a tach. at this point im just scratching my head at what the fuck the last owner was doing. there's whole wads of wires all spliced into each other that don't even look hooked up to anything at all. also not sure if I can just find a plug in for my tach so I may just wire it up based off what I think mike is saying. waiting for confirmation before I go cutting wires up but yeah that's the idea.


That sounds like a good plan. Just hook up temporary wires to be sure the tach is working. Ground and power to #1 and #2 in the pic datzenmike posted. Wires #4 and #5 hooked to wires that go out to your coil. For those you may be able to use a couple of the ones the previous owner installed although you may want to yank that mess out and replace with new ones. I'm running #14 gauge wires out to the coil but someone suggested #12 gauge is better. I'm not sure what gauge your mystery wires are but make sure they are at least #14 gauge.


It is one of the facts of life that if a previous owner has screwed something up, it will be wiring. It is almost a necessity of Datsun life to learn the basics of automotive wiring. A multi-meter is nice but a simple test light helps a huge amount in tracing power.



#1512391 1976 Datsun 620 stock Tachometer disconnected.

Posted by LenRobertson on 24 August 2017 - 06:28 PM

Here are some links that enabled me to hook up the tach in my '72 510 (with matchbox electronic ignition). If you have a points dizzy I think the same tach can be made to work but the wiring may be different.












One of these links has pics of different style wiring on the back of the tachs. The first thing for you to do is use a mirror and flashlight and see which style you have.


I looked at the under-hood wiring on my 510 and I have the neg wire from the coil running to the tach, then a return wire from the tach to the IE module on the dizzy. I suspect a points dizzy does something similar but I'm not sure it uses the neg side of the coil. It may be the wires you have can be made to work but running a couple of new ones from the tach to the coil may be easier.


If you can let us know whether you have points or electronic ignition and which style wiring your tach has, someone may be able to give more specific info.





#1510741 Coolant Leak?!

Posted by LenRobertson on 17 August 2017 - 01:07 PM

If you don't know for certain the age of your radiator and heater hoses, this is an excellent time to put new ones on. It might save you an overheated engine, possible blown head gasket, and maybe a wrecker bill. New hoses are cheap insurance.


Ratsun wisdom says a water pump with a cast iron impeller (like your old pump) does a better job of moving coolant through the system than a pump with a stamped metal impeller (like your new one). But I've always wondered if that might be a Ratsun urban legend. Since you already have the new pump with stamped impeller, go ahead and put it on. I suspect many cars are driving around with these and doing fine. Since you live where I imagine it gets pretty warm now and then, you can be a stamped impeller guinea pig. :lol: I spent a lot of time looking for a pump with a cast iron impeller and it cost me over $100. I still wonder if I wasted time and money by not just buying the kind of pump you got. But let us know how it works for you the rest of the summer.


If you have rust in the cooling system it would be good to use a garden hose stuck in the radiator and heater hose openings and flush out as much of the old coolant and rust as you can before hooking up the hoses again. Then replace the coolant with new. Open the heater valve with the control on the dash and flush the heater core also.



#1508409 14" tires are they still made?

Posted by LenRobertson on 06 August 2017 - 03:56 PM

datzenmike - Thanks for posting your question. I'm in exactly the same position, needing some sort of 14"s. I don't mind driving on crappy used tires, I've done it for years but there is the rare occasion when Karen has to drive the 510 (she drives faster than I do) and a blowout would be something I'd likely hear about for years if it happened.

I agree the Les Schwab website isn't the best but I also understand they are very oriented toward their dealers so they think it is important to herd you to the nearest dealer. I got these choices for 195/60/14:


It would be nice if they provided a bit more info such as where the tires are made and prices but I guess that is what the dealers are there to tell us.





#1506935 Vacuum advance hitachi SU's

Posted by LenRobertson on 31 July 2017 - 04:50 PM

Since I love a mystery I had to go look at my SU/220 manifold setup which isn't mounted on an engine (although the urge to stick them on my 510 is almost overwhelming. It is supposed to get near 100F here this week so that is probably when I won't be able to restrain myself. Oh well, keeled over in the engine bay of a 510, wrench in hand, isn't a bad way to go. :lol: ).


Right where Wayno said, the hole in your second pic is where I have a short piece of brass tubing sticking out which had vacuum hose on it. I think this is pressed in not threaded. Possibly your tubing fell out. If you can press a piece of plastic tubing or vacuum hose against that hole and blow through it, listen for air blowing out inside the manifold. I can hear it on mine but can't see the hole inside the manifold. I can measure the diameter of the brass tube if you need that spec.



#1505055 620 crank no start

Posted by LenRobertson on 22 July 2017 - 02:52 PM

This thread concerns a B210, but a lot of the ideas for trouble shooting will apply to your truck.




As datzenmike says, check for spark using a plug. If you have good spark, then on to checking fuel issues. See if you can narrow your problem down a little using info in the B210 thread, then we may be able to help with more specific things.



#1504578 610 tachometer with electronic ignition

Posted by LenRobertson on 20 July 2017 - 01:55 PM

Pages Bookmarked from when I installed the factory tach in my '72 510 (with matchbox dist.):










These pages are for 510 or 620 but you can probably figure out if any of it applies to your 610 tach.



#1504394 79 B210 won't start

Posted by LenRobertson on 19 July 2017 - 04:11 PM

Thanks for the ideas. Plugs not wet. Took fuel line off by carb, filed a glass bottle. Gas looks ok maybe a little dark in color. Will try remote gas tank after it cools off. 99 degrees outside. 

I've had spark plugs that were fouled even though they weren't wet with gas; just sooty looking. You can burn them off with a propane torch or replace with new. NGK plugs have a really good reputation. As was recommended, lay a plug on top of the engine so it grounds well and see how good the spark looks. It should look strong and regular when cranked (might be better to be in the shade or wait until evening to see better).


I like to use spray carb cleaner as a mild form of starting fluid. Spray a little carb cleaner down the carb throat and crank the engine. If it won't fire on carb cleaner then the fault is very likely no spark. If it runs several seconds on carb cleaner then quits, suspect you have a fuel problem.