Stoney

You will though when you are driving it. However if it wont bother you then it doesn't matter.

Hahaha, fair enough, the fact that you went to the trouble of sound deadening the inside means you care a little bit about the road noise. Just fit some decent speakers to some sound deadened doors with good door seals, and crank them up and belt out some tunes, bobs your uncle, problem solved.

It's much better than no guard, no doubting that, just thought it would transmit more NVH, maybe a rubber cushioning bush on the bellhousing bolts to allow a bit of movement.

Now you just need to jack the old girl up and remove all the wheels and go to town on the whole underneath with some heavy duty degreaser and a pressure washer. Makes working on the car so much nicer and also easier to spot any issues as they arise when there is no oil or grease build ups.

So you bolted it to the crossmember and the bellhousing? If thats the case, you're basically solid mounting the driveline now.

Why don't you run the intake pipe on the inlet manifold side instead of running it across and sucking hot air from the exhaust side of the engine bay? It's done that way from Nissan as the battery on the RHS and the airbox on the left doesn't allow it for packaging design, as well as the airbox being on the exhaust side for the turbo Silvias, granted there is some talk of MAF air reversion on a shorter intake between MAF and throttle body but shouldn't be an issue.

Impressive update!

Get the shoes rebuilt, a lot of places can just fit new material to them, even giving you an option of pad material i.e race spec or street As for the cylinders, dont just rely on a parts website, these cars are ancient, and usually a few models shared same parts

Nap when its finished!

Just a heads up, its a much safer option to have each side shock on separate lines, I've heard of stories of these as rally cars hitting a pothole on one side whilst running air shocks and a single feed line, and it has caused the other shock to inflate, and cause the cars to crash due to the rear enn being thrown all over the shop, I'm sure its one of those rare events, but worth mentioning. Also more common with towing and a pothole then greatly unsettles a car

Always love you detailed posts! It's just a shame they only happen now a days when something breaks.

Are you doing a complete factory original restoration or upgrading it? If upgrading it, I would suggest steering clear of an external voltage regulated alternator and just fit a modern IR unit instead, more power, better voltage control, and greater voltage output at idle too, plus less clutter in the engine bay

Keep the dash vents for the datto, they replace the original ones easily.

is kinda not what this has

Increasing compression will make the motor more driveable/responsive at all RPM. 8.4:1cr these days is low, some modern NA motors are running 12.5:1, granted that is extreme and has EFI and all the mod cons to allow it. But with the right fuel, electronic ignition and a quality tune, upping the compression to 10:1 wont be an issue when tuned properly and will be quite noticeable compared to 8.4:1