bmxninja357

Does anyone know where I can find a passenger door for an 85 nissan 720 truck? Mirror position not important. Have the window and guts but some drunk backed into my motorhome. Need a door. Am in alberta Canada. Near Edmonton. I live in my motorhome and really need to fix it. I took a crappy hotel room for health reasons and plan on moving back to motorhome soon. Thanks, Ninj

Oops. I meant a passenger door for a 85 nissan 720 not a 270. Dang my brain is off key. Peace Ninj

Been a while. Have done a head gasket and a few other things. Have an ongoing illness so haven't done much thusly have not posted much. But I got hit and run, again. But i got the guy this time. He will pay all damages. Now the problem.... I just cant find a passenger door for a 1985 270. If anyone can help.... I'm in Canada (Alberta). Color not important. Must be as close to rust free as possible. And the mirror do not attach to the door so holes for mirror aren't important. Thanks y'all and im sorry I haven't posted more. Will when im up to doing some work. Peace, Ninj

its the little differences between truck and motorhome such as, how is the motorhome connected to the truck? wiring diagram including the extra 14 lights on a motorhome exterior? weight distribution levels for the motorhome overhang? wiring diagram for charging the extra batteries. what type of alternator will power the microwave, or charge the extra 2 rear batteries? best motor/trans combos for pulling the extra weight? i could go on but yeah, the truck part has many things the same but the motorhome part changes a lot of things. thats why i ask. certain things i can sort of sort out on an rv forum but even there datsun/nissan motorhomes are the odd man out. toyotas are far more common but toyotas ain't nissans. and if we want to keep seeing the nissan motorhomes in drivable and live-able condition a place for them would sure help. peace, ninj

thanks for the reply! i was just thinking anyone with a motorhome that comes here is probably going to go straight to the trucks section as that is the base of all nissan homes. so i think it would work best slid in there. i know i have dug through stuff only to be frustrated because the info is great in other threads, but none of the other vehicles seem to be consistently hauling a lot of weight on a constant basis. plus the brake configuration(distribution to back and front) i think could be set up different and i cant see any other vehicle needing that. plus different colored wiring from front to back. tail lights are motorhome specific.... i guess myself and others can dig but i bet theres a lot more nissan motorhomes out there than i think. and i think guys building a nice daily driver or show truck has such different needs from how to wire in a furnace and fridge. and is there a lifespan on a battery isolator. just trying to help myself and others. but i said my peace on it. its out there. and i have to put a couple winter tires on in a few hours so im going to leave it alone and see if anyone else llikes the idea or thinks im a kook. thanks again guys. peace

i dont know if im putting this in the right spot to ask such things so the kings of this castle can feel free to move or delete this after an answer or action. i was just wondering if you could make a separate section in trucks for motorhomes/campers/fifth wheel haulers? you see there is a lot more to building, repairing and driving a tiny motorhome than there is in general for the trucks. wiring and alternators, batteries, dualies, all kinds of odd things come with such vehicles. for example i often go through several different trucks threads and often go to other sites to explore the how the hell did they cobble this together on a nissan. lots of differences that require not only nissan/datsun truck knowledge but levels of motorhome parts and repairs are also required. the amount of power needed is often higher but the speeds are often slower. its kind of a different dynamic. its just a suggestion and im bent on saving as many of these older smaller motorhomes as possible. theres more to do with them than just rip the motorhome off, put on a flat deck and call it a dualie truck. thank you for your consideration. peace, ninj

Been a while since I updated my progress. had a death in the family and some massive dental issues. but I have drank the blues away and near bankrupt myself on dental work ( over 20 grand) and am back repairing my 720 house. since my last visit I have done all 8 plugs and wires, cap n rotor, wipers, and the big one... had the transmission completely rebuilt along with the pan gasket replaced. now the shop that did it messed up and it's still leaking. when they get time they are going to fix it again. with any luck they will get it right this time.lol. Last night I had an oil change done and on way out to meet family in the morning I heard the crappy sound of a tire giving up the ghost. not fun at 3 am out on the hiway. checked it and it was the tread peeling off. but it was still holding air and it's partner dualie was intact . but being Sunday I couldn't find a shop open other than canadian tire. the location I went to is the absolute worst for service and the staff is as ignorant as the day is long so I laid down and made some calls. turns out my hot rod mechanic (oh yeah. I bought a rod.) had two brand new winter truck tires in my size and sold them to me for 80 bucks! those will be on the front when the shop opens and one of those fronts will go to replace the flat. then all my dualies will still match and I will have a spare in my sisters garage in case this happens again. in the motorhome end of my 720 I put in a new fridge and furnace. both working mighty fine. I have a friend who is a manager at diy cabinets and he is doing renos in my motorhaus for free! you see him and his wife, also a good friend of mine, have kids so they can't smoke in the house. but I smoke so we spend a lot of time at my place. and he can't stand how old things look so he keeps making things better. I now have a locking door and wall between the truck cab and the back. this alone cuts my heating bill by at least a third. that's important in these canadian winters. I live in my unit year round in North central alberta. as I write this I'm at a Walmart drinking coffee and watching the other campers freeze. Lol. So I still need more power. I know it's no race car but hiway speed would be nice. I have noticed an excess of fuel coming out the exhaust. this might rhyme with my power being lower than usual. there is only aboot 50000km on this engine (2.4z) and I would really like more power. so the answers I'm seeking today are: 1)How to I fix up the mixture so my fuel isn't blowing out the exhaust? could it be timing? 2)What is the best carb and place to get it for a 2.4z powered motorhome? how much torque will it add generally? 3)I tend to run a little cold even with the grill covered. any suggestions on types of thermostats ? 4)would something like an ignition coil help? if so what type? I will see about cleaning things up tomorrow and getting some pictures up. for all the little tips and tricks I have read on the forum I think showing where it's got me so far in pics is the least I could do. I have to have one of the nicest nissan motorhomes around. and I thank everyone who contributes here to helping me have such a damn nice house. Peace Ninj

This is what I did https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/The-Datsun-and-Nissan-Pickup-Fuel-Pump-Relay-What-the-Haynes-Automotive-Repair-Manual-Wont-Tell-You# Even our piss poor soldering job has worked for about 10000km so far with no trouble. It's easy and virtually free and I bet it works. Peace Ninj

My friend cleaned his garage so I couldn't get a picture of the boxes, part numbers or old balls. (That just sounds wrong. I never thought I would feel bad for not putting pictures of my old balls on the Internet. ) But if you are in canada you can get them at Napa for sure. Two were in ab the rest were brought from bc. Off to work. Deadly chemicals don't haul themselves..... Peace Ninj

So I changed the upper and lower ball joints today. After some contemplating I did it a little different than the previous link shows.you do not need to remove the brakes. Yes it would give you more room but it's really unnecessary. Also I could not get the damn ball joints out tapping on the crowns after everything was loosened. Once my friend got home and got the forks it was simple. do them one at a time. I did top then bottom. You can make it easier by turning the wheels what ever way gives you more space to work with. It is important to note the two inside bolts that hold the lower balls on also hold the one bar. It's a steering component that you don't want running wild and free. So undo the nuts but leave one inside bolt in so you don't give yourself a bad day. Also have a jack under the lower a-frame (I think that's what it's called) you can adjust the height of things and make life easier. It's not that hard of a job and a fun way to spend an afternoon. I think the right tools are the impotent part. That prying fork thingy helped the most. On my unit all four balls were beat to hell. The we're also all from different manufacturers. But were they all ever beat. I knew they were on their death bed but oh my. I was right not to drive until they were fixed. If yours are pooched don't be shy; try and fix them. I'm no mechanic and other than the fork thingy I could have done them with just a socket set a hammer and a minimum of common sense. Tomorrow I will take pics of the boxes with part numbers. And I would like to thank the folks for thier comments. I completely understand I don't need a header. However any bonus power no matter how small is good for me as I'm driving a 4cyl motorhome. And I think they look cool. I want to get my engine bay as good looking as I can with the least ammount of whatsits and spagetti as I can. Biggest 3 concerns are reliability, power, and fuel milage. Where I live there is no emissions laws so I know I can ditch many whatsits. It's a slow process as I think I'm going to change jobs so money might go from tight to non existent for a bit. Again thank you for the input and if anyone has any ideas post them up yo! Peace Ninj

so my front end started making some aweful ratteling sounds. noticed if i really shook the front drivers side tire it would shake. so after some crawling abouts under the unit i figure its the super worn ball joints. so i ordered some in from the local napa. luckily my friend works for the county where i am. county employees get 50% off at napa. so all 4 ball joints (uppers and lowers both sides) came to about $165cdn. yes, i know they are cheaper on ebay but my motorhome is also my car and i have no time to wait. plus i stay on my jobsite and they pay me 50 bucks a day to do it. so time is money as im currently in the driveway of a friend. tomorrow a friend is supposed to come help me change them. we will be using the method shown in this link: http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/1986-nissan-720-pickup-ball-joint-replacement-diy.html if there is any variations i will report them here. i will also post pics of the boxes with the part numbers. im hoping its straight forward and not something screwball due to this unit being a motorhome. cant wait till june or july when i get done my work season. then a tranny rebuild and hopefull and a weber 38/38 and a header. im also slowly working on the motorhome part too. will post some pics of the inside soon. show the progress when its happening. if anyone has any tips or tricks to make things easier please speak up yo! happy motoring ya'll! ninj

So I tried the soldering the relay to cure stalling out. I'm about 3000km since our crappy soldering work and haven't stalled out once. That seems to be a solid trick. And it's easy. Probably 30 minutes from start to finish. Peace Ninj

I know nissan motorhomes are hard to find so I thought I would post this here in case anybody wants one..... http://www.kijiji.ca/v-rv-motorhome/whitehorse/nissan-okanagan-motorhome-176-84/1100181061?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true Peace Ninj

It dosent bottom out.its when you pull onto inclines and go through dips and ditches. The length makes it get awful close to the ground. My last motorhome, a toyota actually has a little wheel on the back bumper for when it does that, it prevents dragging it's back end. There's lots of overhang at the back. My current rear suspension is stiff and has aftermarket extra leafs already. The weight is really no issue that way. I'm in canada and drive year round often on back and mountain roads. The 4x4 isn't to go mud bogging. It's to stay on the road in snow, mud, and ice. It's not uncommon for me to be on the same roads as seen on the towing show hiway thru hell. 4x4 would be of much help on the bad days.

thanks for the input! im just tossing around ideas and collecting thoughts on what i can do. my tranny is the first thing that i know will need help. rebuild in the springtime i guess. its beyond my means so i will be getting that done at a shop. its quicker and since this is home fast time for work is important. then the weber and hopefully get rid of some of the rats nest of hoses under the hood. i have a little trouble with it stalling out every here and there. so before i go switching out the fuel pump i think it might be the little relay by the heater blower motor. and thats easier to work on. and thats good for me as im no mechanical master and generally have no indoor space to work. i found an article that says you can solder it yourself and fix it and i might try that. im friends with a guy at the computer store and they can do that type of thing for a few bucks. but i may see if the parts store has one in case that dosent work. here is the article i found on what seems to be my issue. http://hubpages.com/autos/The-Datsun-and-Nissan-Pickup-Fuel-Pump-Relay-What-the-Haynes-Automotive-Repair-Manual-Wont-Tell-You# any advice for this? i have already replaced the fuel filter, and it looked like it was still the original one on there. wouldnt surprise me. i put on a new rad cap as it was still the original one when i got this... peace, ninj