bloobe

Alright, looks like I got my work cut out for me. Thank you, @Skib @banzai510(hainz) and @datzenmike for taking the time to make suggestions. I'll update the shop checklist here after reading everything through. We'll get this dime back on the road!

It's time to replace a failed head gasket on my 510. I'm trying to do this on my own for the first time. Pumpkn210 (RIP, Dave) did this job for me about 10 years ago while I hung out. I dont want to ruin the engine, so I'm creating like a step-by-step shop checklist for myself and other learners. I found info from h2theizzo YouTube, @banzai510(hainz) is that you? as well as from @Skib's rundown, and a couple manuals. Many of you can do this in the dark, so I appreciate help from your experience, thanks everyone! If you see any corrections / additions, comment below. Also, a couple questions: - how do you turn the engine to TDC? Just turn the crank pulley in neutral? - what gaskets should be replaced other than head gasket? - head bolt torque specs: I've seen both 40 and 60ft/lbs. Any thoughts? L Series Head & Gasket Replacement - Shop Checklist Drain the fluids Drain coolant Drain engine oil Remove auxiliary parts Remove exhaust manifold Disconnect hoses Remove distributor Verify distributor slot at 11:28 position for TDC Time engine to top dead center, compression stroke Take valve cover off Turn crank pulley to approaching TDC Verify mark on crank Verify timed head (intake at 10 o’clock, exhaust at 2 o’clock positions) Verify v-notch on cam sprocket aligned with dash on cam plate Loosen cam and crank bolts Put screwdriver through cam plate (is this a good method?) Loosen cam bolt (19mm) Loosen crank bolt (is this only for full-engine breakdown?) Make sure nothing got moved out of TDC Remove cam sprocket Mark sprocket and chain link with paint pen to help with reassembly Insert timing chain tensioner tool and make sure it is well seated Take off cam bolt (19mm) Remove the cam sprocket Check the cam gears for wear. If gear is worn, replace with OEM Japan parts Remove front cover bolts Remove top (2) 10mm bolts from front cover Below steps are for full-engine breakdown only: Also remove remaining 10mm bottom cover bolts Take out oil pump and oil pump drive. Keep in a clean place Take off crank pulley. Keep in a clean place. Take off cover, but keep bolts in cover so they go back in their same holes Tap cover with something soft on both sides to loosen Remove engine head Clean oil out of Allen head bolts where debris can collect Loosen head bolts with Allen socket (10mm) Loosen and remove from inside to outside Soak head bolts in carburetor cleaner to clean Verify cam dowel is in 12 o’clock position to verify TDC timing Put a breaker bar in an exhaust port and gently lift to separate head Do not left head fall off! Check head gasket, head, and block where failure occurred for defects Remove old gasket & clean surfaces Clean gasket surfaces thoroughly. Check with fingers for any traces of adhesive, old gasket, etc Prep the block face and head face by removing all oil residue. A spray can of ether (starting fluid) works well, and some lint-free cloths / old t-shirts Chase the head bolt thread holes. Remove all water, grime, grease etc that is in the bolt holes. You can use a thread tap. Use a small vacuum hose to blow gunk out of the holes if needed Install front cover gasket (if doing full-engine breakdown) Use blue RTV to hold gasket May have some complications with oil pan Install new head gasket Seal / hold head gasket using Permatex Copper-coat (optional) Place new gasket on block Install head Place head on new gasket, aligning with block dowel pins Ensure head sits flat Install head bolts with washers (10mm Allen) Follow cylinder head bolt tightening sequence Use a quality torque wrench Torque in long, even stroke in increments of 20ft/lbs Finish at 40ft/lbs torque (check on this, someone else said 60) Make sure the cam dowel is at 12 o’clock position for TDC Make sure #1 piston is up to ensure TDC Install the two front cover top bolts (10mm - torque spec?) Install cam sprocket and timing chain Install timing chain sprocket, align with paint marks (when trying to put the sprocket back on, it might seen hard to get it up on the dowel and center part of the cam. If so, move the cam left or right to get slack in one side to help raise the sprocket up) Install cam sprocket bolt (19mm, torque spec?) Remove timing chain tensioner tool Install remaining parts Install valve cover (torque spec?) Install exhaust manifold Verify distributor at 11:28 position for TDC Install distributor Connect hoses Refill fluids Refill the cooling system Refill the engine oil ------ Sources H2theizzo YouTube L series head replacement Is this you banzai510 (Hainz)? https://ratsun.net/topic/25129-quick-head-swap-write-up/#comment-376498 (From Skib's Quick Head Swap Write-Up) …some manuals from the shelf Parts to be ordered & replaced Head gasket Thermostat gasket? Other gaskets? Special tools and Supplies needed 10mm Allen socket 19mm socket Torque wrench Timing chain tensioner tool Gaskets (head, etc) Permatex Copper-coat Coolant Engine Oil

Thanks Bryce for your help and for stopping by.

Mmmm, you are correct. I had said engine. Thanks.

Bryce, that'd be amazing! I picked up new bolts that are the same fitting, 10M-1.25 The length seems different between the two maybe 25mm & 35mm, but I don't know if that makes a difference.

Oh man, thanks Kelowg. You are a lifesaver.

Sorry to keep bugging you--I'm not sure how to proceed in this situation. Am I looking at re-threading the holes, or should I consider something like loctite, or is there another option? I am still learning :)

Well now I see why things came loose. Both engine threads were stripped.

Oh boy, the little guy is hanging on by a thread. Thanks Bryce!

I am getting a grinding sound when I trying start my 510. It's like when your car is already started and you try and start it. The engine doesn't engage or anything. Just a lovely grinding noise. Suggestions appreciated :)

One of these days it'd be nice to join. I'm usually working on most weekends during the summer, so I'm pretty scarce.

Got one person scheduled for pickup. If it falls through, you can have them. I'm close to downtown on Beacon Hill.

These are now free. I need the space ASAP. First to pick them up gets them.

$80 - Seattle, WA See CL ad here: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/pts/3149999021.html

Set of 4 280zx 14" wheels 4 x 4-1/2 bolt pattern Currently have 185/65-14" tires One wheel has some curb rash I'm moving and need to sell these soon. Seattle - $100 Cash only. Please send me a PM, thanks.