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Mysta2

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    Seattle
  • Cars
    '79 620 truck
  • Interests
    Things with engines
  • Occupation
    model maker

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  1. Anyone have a source for a replacement pump? I'd be happy to swap in a new one, but I don't want an aftermarket one. What I think is the accel pump on the side is not connected to the linkage at all. I still couldn't get it to squirt anything pumping it by hand though. The passenger side barrel does seem to be the primary.
  2. Has anyone been able to view any of the videos?
  3. In the carb on my '62 Ranchero the accelerator pump squirt was above the plainly visible with the filter off. In this carb, I cannot see it. should I be able to? Can you see the last video that I posted? I'm assuming that it would squirt out of the bottom of those two rings in there. I know that pulling the choke lever closes the choke. But you made it sound as if the "choke flap" would close after the first accelerator pump. Or did you simply mean that I needed to close the choke (manually) after pumping to increase the chance of a successful start?
  4. What would cause the choke flap to close? The choke is setup currently as manual. Would the accelerator pump only spray fuel with the electric pump running? Or should it do it all the time? I can't see any spray in either condition: Video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/YihNz24xb5BqrLJq6 Are these video links working? I put them into a shared Google album.
  5. Update: She's a runner now... I didn't really do anything to address this actual problem short of just kind of "working through it". Starts on starter fluid now, and idles well (as far as I can tell) but it does smoke a hell of a lot. Video (if this works) Try this video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/RScpBSj9uF7CP9UZA
  6. There are two filters in line. That one and another in the engine bay. That photo's a year old and I'm not sure that's the filter that's still on it as I have changed them both. I may go ahead and swap them both again for the hell of it though on the chance that it might help. That 90 degree one was a pain to find.
  7. Yeah, I'm fairly certain it's original: (maybe more like a can of RedBull) I've broken it down a bit (long time ago) to make sure it's clean inside and it seems to work well.
  8. Not that I can think of at the moment. The fuel pump is original as far as I can tell, sure looks it at least.
  9. Carb does not seem to be dripping after 5 seconds of cranking. I had my son try and start it from inside the truck and I confirmed spark at the center dist wire. In the original post I stated that it was running a week before the post. I’m not sure what you’re asking when you ask if I’ve ever had it running. That being said though I have never had it running with any consistency or driven it more than up and down the street, so if you mean that then no. update: I got it running and although it smoked a lot, it did idle alright for 5-10 minutes before it started to run a bit rough and then I shut it off.
  10. I have a '79 620 truck that I can't get started. L20B (I assume) with an edlebrock intake and a Webber carb (all installed by the PO) It started a week or so ago in the middle of the night in the garage and ran for a while. This was a test after fixing some of the ignition switch wiring. Now, without any changes it will not start. I can switch the ignition on, and can hear the fuel pump running. It cranks nice and strong but doesn't even try to start. Spraying starting fluid in the carb does nothing (usually it helps with a hard start after a long sit) So this suggests to my mind that the issue is electrical rather than fuel. I'm on my own in the garage so I don't have anyone to test things in the engine bay as I crank it. I did notice that the distributer was loose so I placed it in generally the middle of the slot and tightened it down a bit. New development as of last night: I pulled the plugs and found them to be very black and wet. I cleaned them all and put them back in and it seems to have tried to start. It shook a lot but didn't catch. Then after that first burst, it was back to cranking with no effort to start. I went down to Oreilieys and bought new plugs, put them in and same thing: one shaky almost start, followed by cranking but nothing. Is there a location to best set the distributer to get the thing running in order to set it? Other ideas on next steps?
  11. - Hmm. That does seem to be how mine works... bonus wire for extra credit? - Thinking about this a little more: The switch needs to have 4 wires: ACC= Lights, radio, gauge cluster?, fuel sender? OFF= nothing RUN= Lights, radio, gauge cluster, fuel sender, fuel pump, Coil START= Lights, radio, gauge cluster, fuel sender, Coil, starter So the ACC needs to be on it's own wire (the largest circuit with everything short of running the engine) RUN wire (Black w/white) could just be the fuel pump and coil. Start wire (black w/yellow) would have to be just the starter. Hot wire would have to be there to power all of this. ...so the blue must be the ACC circuit. I welcome any corrections to my conclusions. So what is powered in these trucks with the switch turned to ACC? Does the fuel guage come on in the ACC position? Does the cluster light up? My wiring is a mess and I can't be sure anything is connected to the blue wire at the moment. As already noted, it doesn't spark at all so it seems that it may not be connected to anything.
  12. I don't know if this will work from Google photos, but:
  13. The socket that connects to the rear of the ignition switch in my truck has 4 wires (it's a 6 socket plug and the switch has 5 leads, but there are only 4 wires) I'm not sure what they all are and I can't find a wiring diagram that matches much of what I see under the hood of the actual truck. Confirmed are the following: 1. white (heavy gauge) - Battery positive. 2. Black w/yellow - Starter motor 3. Black w/white - Fuel pump 4. Blue - Unknown #3 runs the fuel pump, but is this just switched power? Does it run everything? What is #4 supposed to do? If #3 is just the fuel pump then #4 must be the rest of the switched power circuit. I don't get any spark at all to indicate a closing circuit when I touch the battery positive to it (white). Thanks Kit
  14. Mysta2

    New 620 owner :)

    Truck is looking better and better. Nice work. How long ago did you fix the dash cracks? How's it holding up?
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