Raceline 15x6 zero offset wheels with Goodyear Eagle RS-A 195/60 - 15 tires.
The ride is soooo much better now. The Blazer wheels were 27 (twenty-seven) pounds EACH!!! . The new wheels are 17 pounds. With such a large decrease in unsprung weight the truck is so much more responsive now...and it's almost like I have power steering. I can "one hand" the steering wheel. I wanted to get 205/60's but there were no good tires (IMHO) in that size.
Mine is [currently] the most irritating part of my bay, partially because the PO got overspray on it. I just ordered some absurdly expensive Ring Brothers hose that I can form because my port is still on the other side of the engine.
While I was fixing/upgrading the wiring, I cleaned up the ECU wiring and added a 10 position fuse block. Im going to finish wrapping the rest of the wires this weekend. The mess still kinda bugs me and I want a can am box.
This is tucked up behind the dash looking up (you can see the wiper motors).
I got the GTS 3 push button start kit from Gallo Technologies. I added the power door locks and started to run the wires during the install, the idea is to have remote lock/unlock. I had to call and order another control module, but they were way cool about it and sold me just the module instead of the whole kit. I have to say that their customer service is pretty outstanding.
It works pretty well now. It comes with two RFID keyfobs and also the stuff to turn it into an alarm system if you want (shock sensor, siren), but I did not use them.
The pushbutton fits almost perfectly in the Datsun opening. I added a couple of wraps of electrical tape around the body to snug it up, then ran a couple of beads of silicone on the back to lock it down. I ended up ordering the wiring plugs from Vintage Wiring so I could plug the stock harness into the Gallo Tech starter feed (see pics) and that was a good idea because when I smoked my first control module, it was easy to plug the old key switch back in !!!
The starter button glows green when you are in proximity range and red when you are out of range.
6 pin, non latching connector:
Keyfobs (the LED on the Fob also blinks when you are in range):
Button "armed" - the pic is a little washed out.
I still have to clean up some wiring and get going on the door locks, but that is later.
I got the pushbutton start installed last weekend.
It worked great about twice or three times. I noticed since I swapped the stock gauges out for the Speedhuts the volts were stuck at about 12, but when I revved the engine they went to about 16v. I did not think much about it, assumed the battery is kinda low because it sits all week. Well... when I installed the pushbutton kit, when it went to 16v it was not happy. I head a loud "click" under the dash and just like that...I let all the smoke out of the control module. It was dead.
It turns out (thanks to copious research here) that not having the stock "charge" lamp feeding the voltage to the alternator makes it crazy. So I traced out the wiring and ended up ordering the S13 alternator plug from Wiring Specialties. I added some extra grounds and a fusible link as well as hooked up both sense and lamp circuits. I added a bulb under the dash in the lamp circuit because it needs a little resistance to tickle the alternator exciter. I'll figure out a permanent solution to the lamp later.
Posted by FrankRizzo
on 28 February 2017 - 08:54 PM
Do you show how you wired them?
Speedo is GPS, If you run a dedicated 12V and well as a switched 12V to the speedo, it boots up and finds the satellite in about 3 seconds. Tach is a tach - find + coil wire, water and oil are kind of a pita because you have to use the speedhut senders. On a KA24DE the fuggin water temp sender is 1.25 thread pitch and was a bitch to find an adaptor, but I did...I did not want to put it in the radiator hose. Oil is 1/8" BFST thread but those are fairly easy to find.
One thing I learned the hard way this weekend...by removing the stock gauge cluster I removed the factory "charge" light which is one of the things that the internal voltage regulator on the KA Alternator needs to regulate the voltage. Sooooo..I sent ~16 volts to my brand new keyless start module and pretty much let the smoke out. Project next weekend: install lamp in the "L" wire circuit and install new keyless start module.