murdrdatsoon72

Thanks for the advice. I will post what I find.

My running lights stop working on my 72 %10 wagon. Replaced light switch and still not working. Prior to changing the switch I noticed I blew a fuse in the light system. I did the headlight with relay conversion7 years ago. Everything was working fine. The running lights just flickered and now I have nothing. All signals, flashers, brake lights work just the running lights don't work. My question is my light switch has a fat black wire which is not shown in my 72 Datsun 510 wagon wiring diagram. What I did to make it work was using a red/blue wire nearby that had constant 12 volts which provides power to my headlight relays. The red/blue wire based on the wiring diagram is for the left headlight from the fuse box. But on my wagon this wire is up in the dash behind the instrument panel. Is there another wire diagram that uses this red/blue in the dash? I backed probed the wires for the running lights to the fuse box and all is good. Anyone have any thoughts? NOTE: I have the ka24de conversion via the CAN AM box.

I am interested on some info about your lift on the 510 wagon. Was it a hard build? What size tires were you running? I saw a picture of one on the web, is that yours? I really like that stance.

Selling Datsun 510 for all (4) door rubber trims, rear lid and rear window seal. Rubber are new and still in original plastic bags. Check pictures for part numbers. Selling as a kit or can part out. Free shipping. Rear window seal for chrome trim moulding. Sunpha brand on all trim except one door. Asking $400 for kit or $65 per door trim, $100 for rear lid and $150 rear window. https://photos.app.goo.gl/JFPhpBoYF4fAnUrF7

Problem solved!! Mklotz and Dolomite was right. Thanks Bros!! The pushrod was too far extended, I backed down the rod to 1/8" and the brakes work perfect without locking up!! Anybody interested in an 81 280zx proportioning valve (used) with all connectors and clamps? :thumbup: Just bought it off Ebay!

Thank you all for your advise. I will check these suggestions. I did not adjust the brake play, thought about it. Has anyone installed a 280zx proportioning valve on their wagons or should I just keep the original pressure switch? The 280zx MC was bought new about a year ago. Car normally sits in garage (3 years now) because its not street legal yet. Also this braking problem needs to be resolved.

I have the usual 280zx front strut and disc brake setup on my 72 wagon. My issue is when I first drive off the brake pedal operation is soft. After about 20 minutes of normal driving the brakes start locking up and the brake pedal gets really hard. I rebuilt the front calipers (sand/polished piston and bore) new seals and bled Master. I thought at first it was just the front brakes but when I checked the rears (drums) they too were locking up. If I let the car cool down, the brake pedal is soft again until I start driving it for awhile then they lock up. I am running the 280zx dual Master and just picked up a porportioning valve from a 81 280zx. The problem with this setup is my original setup has 5 lines going into it plus brake switch and the 81 280zx only has 4 and no brake light switch. I was told that the wagon does not have a porportioning valve rather a hydraulic pressure switch in the brake system. Can anybody give me some suggestions on this problem?

IT WORKS!!! :thumbup: I meet a older guy who drove around the valley in a 69 510. He let me borrow his Clymer Repair manual for 510/wagons/Pickups 1968 - 1972. The wire diagram in the book was exactly like mine. So the wire to post 2 on the light switch is black. The diagram showed a W/R wire from post 2 to Bat +. I just cut the black wire that was spliced into another black wire that was going to ground and tapped into the R/L wire (constant power) that was hanging nearby and the headlights came on!! I tested the hi/low beams, and they both worked great!! I also tested the rest of the lights with headlights on. No problems!! The wire diagram I bought online also showed a W/R wire at the light switch, which I didnot have. Thanks again for everyones input!!

Thanks Shacks510..I will try that as my last resort! Just got down removing the double relay setup by DQ. I switched over to the single relay removing the original headlight relay as diagramed in Bananahamuck's response to my problem. Now, when I pull out the headlight switch I hear the relay working but still no lights. Same results as the double relay with original headlight relay in place. Just wondering..I have a R/L wire with female connector just hanging by the headlight switch not attached to anything and its has constant 12 volts. I also have another B/R with male spade unhooked also. I have no W/R wire at the headlight switch (as noted in the single relay diagram) only a R/Y with no power but the G/L wire has constant power. (I had a full head of hair when I started this two weeks ago!) :confused:

Bananahamuck..in that wiring diagram, what is the box below the light switch. Is that the other headlight relay that is controlled by the hi and low beam stalk on the steering column?

Thanks guys for the advise and info. This forum is awesome!! I will try it again tomorrow :thumbup:

Apparently there is alot on this subject, I just need to do my homework and search this forum!

Jumped the R/Y wire from fuse box to bat + and hi lights came on. Pulled out light switch, did not effect lights. I checked the old headlight relay and when I pull out the light switch the only power out Im getting there is a G/BL wire. I think thats for the parking lights. When I apply direct power from the bat + to 86 on relays that particular light comes on. Can someone explain to me again how the headlight circuit works on my wagon.

Thanks for the advise. I will try that.